1. scratchbuilder

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    The carpenters rule of thumb..MT..thx for sharing. Because I'm hesitant about the strip down necessary to weld..i thought I could bolt a piece of 1/4 alum. to the plate. Which is a square horseshoe shape. If I make a reverse shape and bolt it to the existing Js mount..you think it would do? I'm thinking I will still have that little bit of flex,that will affect my chain tension unless I gusset underneath..suggestions of how you see the fix gladly accepted. your use of channel is good. It will be in my thought processes now. A channel Js plate 'would' have been great..lol
     
    #61 scratchbuilder, Oct 25, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2015
  2. scratchbuilder

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    Well..repair in progress. Gusset first,then cut out the alum. plate, and test #2..
     
  3. scratchbuilder

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    Geterdonetoday
     

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  4. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    Any which way you add strength you see how it turns out.

    I see you did grind off a bit of paint and did weld.

    I have for a special alternate use one day my motor bike change gearing from off road trails to parade speed. My motor bike not a charm, but I am as time allows finish up the cover that I can add for parade to look like a California Sheephead Fish.

    I mention this as I needed 2 jack shafts so that I geared down to have a slow speed that I could do 5mph and not have to pulse the throttle and heat the clutch. Since the jackshafts are on brackets that are tall and one jackshaft above the other, I did use a clamp method to hold the top and not rely just on the bottom of the brackets. Both ends keep it steady and if I recall I have gearing I can change from the 20:1 to something about twice so I engage the clutch fully at such a slow 5mph.

    If I had a manual clutch that would allow it to chug the engine and be more fuel efficient, but that is another build.

    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=14 top of page post 131 pictures shows a bracket I braced with round tube stock for my training wheel inflatable 10 inch tires so I can go 5mph without worrying about falling over with the parade Fish look.

    MT
     
    #64 MEASURE TWICE, Oct 27, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  5. scratchbuilder

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    Here's the finished fix. It's a bummer when a problem comes to light after the fact. One thing(ok.. 1 of many)..is the travel of rear sus. Had to go to smaller tire because I got rub on the Js carrier. Now with the fender on, I'm going to have put a big dent in the fender to clear. What's nice is the rear sus. really smooth's out the bumps. Went over r.r tracks and and could've had a cup of coffee in my hand and not get spill! When I first started you referenced thread I thought the bike was a 20",till I read there's a 6horse engine sittin in there. I'll bet you enjoyed that mind challenge and gained some experiential knowledge. I prefer belt drive. I don't know what's up with my mt clutch, but I get hella chatter chuggitty,chuggitty till it gets going. Would a belt clutch solve that, being it would provide a little slippage?thx for helpin.
     

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    #65 scratchbuilder, Oct 27, 2015
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  6. scratchbuilder

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    Here's what I did on 'del rio' cause I got that clutch chatter. At first I thought too much for lil hs142 to handle. So I did a Js clutch, gave that up and did the belt primary.
     

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    #66 scratchbuilder, Oct 27, 2015
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  7. scratchbuilder

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    Re: rear suspension,1n,done

    Well,as far as the build goes done. Ok maybe...my home done carb manifold is not right,it only idles high,for low end,one click on the chock,top end,back to open. I need to make a curved manifold and put my 18mm carb on. So build isn't done. And, the four link might have too many flex points. Time will tell
     

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    #67 scratchbuilder, Oct 27, 2015
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  8. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    Yeah my mt clutches always chatter. I think it's just the name of the game with these cheapos. There is a thread by greaser monkey where he experimented with heavier weights and a heavier spring and I think it made it better. I don't mind the chatter much, it's a bit annoying but it doesn't last long. When the 2nd gear clutch chatters I just ease off the gas to let it shift and all is good.

    The belt clutch is good I think. I did one in an early trans test on my bike. The main thing is to have belt guides so that when you are in neutral it disengages completely.
     
  9. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    And as far as that muffler; I have the big one on my bike with the 3/4" thread. You can get some more power (and noise) if you punch out the baffle in the center. On mine it was just tack welded at 3 points inside and I just used a stainless shaft to punch it out. Effectively makes it a straight thru muffler with no restriction. Sounds like a straight pipe with the edge taken off it. Gained a couple mph!
     
    #69 Tony01, Oct 27, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2015
  10. scratchbuilder

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    Yeah, I just ease off till she gets rollin also. I really got carb problems,hope I can solve it with the slide carb.
     
  11. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    Belt clutch you probably know can slip. Water gets on it it slips a while til dries. I've gone through small streams and then if it is a hill right away that sort of sucks.

    I think the noise is pretty much the same. It is the bell and shoes, not some much the chain. I only have a 2.5 hp not 6hp. I may put a newer (still old though) 3hp Briggs 4stroke in its place if I can but shaft size is wrong from the edger I acquired.

    My 2 jack shaft system uses 2 belts and one small length of chain. The belts and pulleys need cleaning after they get dirty and grime on them. I use acetone on the pulleys and mild dish soap on the belts then dry. It makes a lot of difference.

    Your suspension sound like it works real good! I have only front shocks and for it I have a smaller tire on the front. I swapped in a 24 inch fork on a 26 inch frame, cause free parts are nice. It is level anyway as the shock keeps it level until I am bouncing and hoping not to bottom out. Bottoming out I have now knowledge that slowing and steering around is the way to avoid that. Trails I've not been on I first take them a few times slower to remember the big hazards.
     
  12. scratchbuilder

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    Yeah MT I'm always reading what wasn't there.lol. Yeah,rear sus. is Nice, because of the 'giant' shock. It's not just a spring. Got it at the swap meet. I know what mean about slowin down and missing the ruts n bumps, maybe they smooth out at 40.
     
  13. scratchbuilder

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    Ok,time to do carburetion. Manifold build in progress. The piece of round you see poking out carb side is a 3/8 piece to keep alignment of pieces before tack up.then it'll be removed.
     

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    #73 scratchbuilder, Oct 28, 2015
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  14. scratchbuilder

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    Manifold done, and, carb hooked up,Wow it works! Idles,rev's. Test run tomorrow.
     

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  15. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    Idles, super!

    Some carbs without adjustments are a problem with idle. Nice work on the elbow. I used an old lawn boy mower elbow part I scavenged on a cheap Briggs Chinese made carb and get it to idle fairly well with out needle valve mixture screw.
     
  16. scratchbuilder

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    YeahMt, idles!! Took it for ride up the block, ohh we acceleration...didnt press it, I've got one more fix. I had this 20 year or old clutch with like brake shoe lining, no chatter just smooth take off. I must have messed up my mt metal shoe clutch when I disassembled it, it was really acting like one or more shoes were trying to engage before the others..i think its junk now. Oh yeah the other thing, because I have no slot motor mounts, I've got put an idler before I really gas it, max torque had 11t, this one has 10, sooo, idler now. Beginners' luck on my intake and carb match up. I just might send for my plate.
     
    #76 scratchbuilder, Oct 30, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2015
  17. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    If there is room to make slots out of what I guess was purchased from a mfr, maybe there can be adjustment in the engine mount plate. Half links for chains exist, I have no experience using them, some say no, you can see what are down side reasons if really important to try them.

    I slotted my jackshaft brackets mounting holes for the pillow bearings on one of my two jackshafts to allow adjustment of tension on short piece of chain between top and bottom jackshafts.

    MT
     
  18. scratchbuilder

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    Yeah, half links sent for me,I'd rather hassle with puttin an idler on. I was able to shift the engine and gain a little,so I got enough tightness to open her up!! I'll be back...lol
     
  19. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    Nice work! That intake looks good.

    Half links are strong and easy to install. Easier than adding an idler. I think they are stronger than master links. I have one on my first gear chain and no problems... But my master links let loose sometimes.
     
  20. scratchbuilder

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    Yeah 01,your right about links,its just that skinny cotter pin on #35 chain that I don't like.
     

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