performance spark plug?

abbmota said:
Thanks pablo

What are the pros and cons of an extended tip other than it being closer to the top of pistion ?
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Closer to piston, tiny bit more compression, less resistant to fouling, slightly hotter within the heat range.
 
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abbmota said:
Well, I always thought the lower the number the colder the plug.
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Nope, as you found out. I do think it's hilarious that Champion uses the NGK graphics for their explanation. NGK has had this information posted for at least 10 years. Now Champion copies it.

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bandito said:
A platinum plug is more resistent to fouling out than the cheaper steel plugs. Platinum doesnt oxidize so easily when the electrical arc goes across. Maybe carbon builup is a better description........platinum just plain doesnt corrode as easily as steel.
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That is simply not true - I mean the first part. Sure, platinum is more resistant to corrosion than say steel. But this does not mean the platinum plug is more resistant to fouling. In fact in some turbo applications, platinum tipped plugs are worse.

NGK Spark Plugs USA

Also, I don't think the center electrode is steel on standard plugs. You may want to check that.:D
 
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Thanks for the links and answers, everybody.
The stock plug runs a little sooty and slightly wet (I'm running 16:1 oil right now) So I'm going to change the plug.
Plus I read about the OEM plugs self-destructing and I'm not into that.
 
OK platinum sucks in small engines I was going by my experience with my cars over the years, in them Ill swear by them. My lil honda 50 motor is only a year old and I WAS thinking about putting a platinum plug in it when the time came.
 
There is an exellent performance plug for the zbox engine to replace the B6HS it is the BR6HIX iridium NGK
 
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Ya but the price on the HIX plugs is way high. Shuck's Automotive wanted $16 for one. I use a b7hs but I file the the grounding electrode to a semi point. I exposes more of the spark area. I read about it in another one of the mod threads. It seems to work. If money isn't an issue NGK makes a racing wire. The one for these bikes is NGK CR4. It has a copper core and has electrical sheilding built into the rubber plug cap. They cost about $17. I've considering trying a Nology wire. They have a capacitor built into the wire. Drag racers use them. Suppose to give a 300% spark boost. I found one for $40, they go up to $80ea. I had them on a motorcycle. It had 40k on it and still had the original plugs in it. There's a ground strap on them coming out of the side of the wire at the capacitor you bolt to the motor to make them work. I just don't know if they'd make enough difference to justfy the cost.
 
I am running NKG, and I replaced my original spark wire with one I ripped right out of my truck. The stock one tore the second time I tried to pull it off the plug. I run fine, sparking at almost .3 gap. Perfect light brown and the slightest white where it arc's.
 
Interesting page. They worked great on my Vulcan Drifter 1500. Like I said I don't really think the price is justifiable on these bikes and not likely with this small displacement they would make a difference anyway.
 
jasonh said:
I too replaced everything at once, so who knows exactly which one made the difference. I do know that the automotive wire has already started giving me fits, so I just used a piece of coax cable (cable tv) and soldered the connector end to it and slipped the boot on. Works great. probably will interfere with electronic speedos and the like though. Hopefully it doesn't give my gps fits.
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I used the mega cable the one that wires up th car amplifiers with. From battery and ground. Soderd up the fitting I needed from a car style wire. Its been 7000 miles never had a prob with it never been shocked either. I don't spend my time frolicking with it while the motor is running yet to this day I have never been shocked from it . If that doesn't conduct noting will!!!
 
Guys there is no magic sparkplug or sparkplug wire that will give you more power. If the engine runs and doesn't miss it is doing its job.

Jim
 
This is a repost of mine from elsewhere.

Ok, been doing some research as to alternative plugs for the NGK BP*HS series that we seem to commonly use in our Happy Time or China Girl 2-stroke engines.

Cross reference part numbers and equivalents.

NGK BP5HS = Denso W16FP-U or Denso Iridium IWF 16 = Bosch W8B or W8BC or W8BP = Champion L92Y
NGK BP6HS = Denso W20FP-U or Denso Iridium IWF 20 = Bosch W7B or W7BC or W7BP = Champion L87Y
NGK BP7HS = Denso W22FP-U or Denso Iridium IWF 22 = Bosch W5B or W5BC or W5BP = Champion L64Y
NGK BP8HS = Denso W24FP-U or Denso Iridium IWF 24 = Bosch = None......................= Champion L61Y

Unfortunately, neither Denso or NGK manufacture a supplementary gap spark plug (multi pronged) to suit a 12.7mm thread reach.
With NGK, each heat range figure gives 70 degrees celcius (158 degrees fahrenheit) temperature differential at the firing tip, to the next heat range above or below the nominated sparkplug.
So, a BP7HS runs 70 degrees hotter than a BP8HS or 70 degrees cooler than a BP6HS sparkplug.

The "P" in the NGK code (BP6HS) refers to a projector nose spark plug.
The projector nose sparkplug moves the firing tip further away from the cylinder head wall and to a more central location in the combustion chamber space with piston at top dead centre.

Now you can go out and play till your hearts content.


Fabian
 
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I had recently put a billit aluminum head on my Stiletto so I had a spare high compresion slant head. I was suprised when I went to put it on my cruiser. That poor old cruiser has a ton of miles on it and gets rode in rain, shine, snow, 10 below with the streets covered in ice or to haul $100 worth of groceries home. It always started great and and never missed a beat. Stock GNT plug in the head I removed. Plug is a plug? Now both my bikes have NGK's. I feel the important issue is having the correct heat range plug. Not if it is platninum, iridium, two or more electrodes or gives you a blow job on start up.
 
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