Parts that should be replaced before installing the kit

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Mozenrath, Jun 21, 2011.

  1. decoherence

    decoherence New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2010
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    0
    i probably didn't write clearly. i only broke those cast aluminium pieces that actually hold the bars.
    they didn't break while running.
    they would slip down the eat stays. so when tightening they shattered. the 2nd one i tried to tighten less & it would slip. when i tightened. it broke.
    changed to a u-joint repair kit. i can tighten all i want.
    i'm 3rd generation radial air plane mechanic. well ok, i'm not a licensed mechanic but i didn't need once since i worked in the shop that is licensed.
     
  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    1
    Still shouldn't broke..the studs if installed correctly would strip/pull out first before the mounts broke. The reason they broke was as I stated they were not installed correctly. When mounting a engine, the rear mount has to be mounted first, this mount has to be flush and tight enough (60 to 70 INCH POUNDS) to the tube, so the engine won't move. After that the front mount needs to be installed. The front mount needs to be flush with the tube and if not a fabricated front mount made or shims used. Installed this way it's impossible for the engine to drop. I don't care what your credentials are. So I say again, the engine wasn't installed correctly... Take it for what's it worth.

    Illustrations of mounting...
    Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
     
  3. "the prussian" Shop Dogs

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Messages:
    620
    Likes Received:
    0
    Al ,your right about not reading the stickeys, i dont get it ?
    I devoured all that stuff before my first build. It's good of you to repeate the info for others thanx .
     
  4. yodar

    yodar New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2010
    Messages:
    147
    Likes Received:
    0
    I applied a spherical gob of GOOP Sealant/Cement around that vulnerable spot where the leads leave the magneto, and it is a weatherproof tough rubber seal far better than what the Chinese have used. I urge you to apply this stuff on not too, wonce it hardens to transparent rubber, nothing will move till you get out oyur X-Acto knife

    I have also replaced whose leads (the black and Blue leads) and replaced the ignition coil black and blue leads with this:

    http://www.bgmicro.com/images/cab2153.jpg

    By the time freight was paid they came to $2.50 each and I have a dozen or sol left.

    yodar
     
  5. decoherence

    decoherence New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2010
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    0
    dude, i'm not going to argue about it.
    those pics you posted are not from stock motor mounts. @ least none i got. i didn't get one single u-bolt.
    the stock little cast aluminium pieces broke. 2 of them. i don't see one pic in your photos that show the mounts i was sent.
    i replaced them with with something strong & now no problems.
    i could go outside now & keep tightening till either the bolts break or my steel frame kinks.
    in fact i bought a whole bike & engine together as a kit from spooky tooth. the only way i would have been able to mount my front oversized tube is by drilling the frame.
    i didn't drill.
     
  6. John the Chimp

    John the Chimp New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2011
    Messages:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    It sounds to me like youre the only one argueing Decoherence. If you broke motor mounts they werent installed correctly. If you dont like the reponse. Dont ask questions. There was nothing argumentative said. Its how you took it. There are some of us that think people should leave the high school atittude off of here. It just makes the threads uninteresting. But thats my opinion.
     
  7. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    1
    Part 1 of 2

    those pics you posted are not from stock motor mounts. All my rear mounts are totally stock, the front mount on some of my builds are NOT stock...WHY..stock mounts wouldn't align with the bike tube, so I had to frabricate the front for a perfect fit.

    Are these the type of mounts you were supplied?

    ...............Rear mount [​IMG] ...........Incorrect alignment [​IMG] .............Correct alignment [​IMG]

    This is my fabricated front mount...
    [​IMG]
     
    #27 Al.Fisherman, Jun 26, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2011
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    1
    Part 2 of 2

    On this Chopper I made the tubes to match the engine..
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    On this chopper I bought a offset engine mount and it was the perfect 75 degree "V"
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    There is not one build that I can't stand on top of the cylinder head, and the engine won't budge, not one, even at 210#
     
  9. decoherence

    decoherence New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2010
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    0
    i didn't ask any questions.
    the thread was about parts to be replaced.
    i only stated that was one of the pieces that should be replaced.
    the only differing opinion i am giving from any one was that my cast aluminium mount broke because it is one of the parts that should be replaced.
    if it wasn't to be replaced, why are pictures being posted of mounts that are not stock?

    also please quote where i have given any attitude.
    i have already seen how people here take things like it is the final word like " 100:1 or not" or "idler wheel or none" or even the "idler vs tensioner".

    i too hate when people ask questions then not like the opinions they asked for. being i didn't ask any opinion & the thread was asking for opinions, i gave mine.
    in fact i even blamed myself for possibly not being clear.
    i don't even feel like the guy that responded to me has an attitude.

    next time please read carefully before typing with your emotions about what you think you read.
     
  10. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,179
    Likes Received:
    7
    How do you know we didn't read carefully?

    It's not a commonplace thing to fail - every single aspect of these motors can fail, one in a hundred doesn't justify replacement.

    One in 10 or 20 does though.

    Yes, people have made new mounts - they're also custom made for different bikes, not bought in shops but fabricated in their personal workshop.

    Calm down man.
     
  11. decoherence

    decoherence New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2010
    Messages:
    476
    Likes Received:
    0
    i had 2 break. 2 out of 2.
    i can see where the problem could have been now. my seat stay is larger than most. it tapers only @ the top. the stock mounts don't come anywhere close to the the other side of the mount clamp.
    either way a replacement fixed the issue. i just wanted to share that.
    i'm still not sure why telling what happened to me & how i fixed it means i have an attitude or that i am upset.
    i am doing neither.
    in reference to reading carefully it was toward the person i quoted.
    he said that i was asking questions & have given attitude to the answers.
    which neither was done.
    if somebody can quote me for doing either i will be more than glad to apologise for it.
    in the meanwhile i apologise for even being a reason to side jack this thread.
    so please carry on with the topic @ hand.
     
  12. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,179
    Likes Received:
    7
    This is a good transition one - the wrap around U-style (as opposed to the drilled T-style) universal clamp can fold the frame. This isn't a completely stock part, though it is given as an optional upgrade at a few retailers.

    Reinforce that puppy with some cut pipe with the same ID as the OD of the seat tube.

    There are more high quality parts you can use - one I have used is a customized muffler clamp.
     
  13. John the Chimp

    John the Chimp New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2011
    Messages:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    His last post proves my point. Thats all I have to say. I wont drag this out anymore.
     
  14. Mozenrath

    Mozenrath New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2011
    Messages:
    340
    Likes Received:
    0
    I didn't even bother with most of the mount pieces. After having to bolt in a whole new mount section to the front of the engine, I had little choice but to scrounge up my own mounts. For the front, I used a plate from a steel door hinge I got from OSH. The holes were in the perfect position and just needed to be widened a little with the rotozip. All the mounts I made work great, especially with rubber padding. I don't know why anyone wouldn't use rubber padding.
     
  15. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,179
    Likes Received:
    7
    Rubber keeps it from being torqued properly and stresses the frame moreso than usual.

    Some people have luck, but there is enough bad experiences and controversy on it that I don't think it'd qualify as a general "should be replaced".
     
  16. Mozenrath

    Mozenrath New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2011
    Messages:
    340
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hhhm, I'll check for that(however it is I do so). So far I haven't had any problems. I'll clarify by saying that the stock mounts don't need to be replaced(mine seemed fine), but making your own probably wouldn't hurt. I probably would have just used the stock mounts had I been smart enough to replace the cheap studs from the kit in the first place.

    Like your avatar! Tanz mit Laibach! \m/
     
  17. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2010
    Messages:
    1,179
    Likes Received:
    7
    No matter where ya go, there's one of us there! \m/ >_< \m/

    LOL - best way you're going to see it in action is to dig through the rubber motor mount threads so you can get an idea of what it does. Those studs are important to replace day 1, and are cheap to do as well. GR8 hardware is cheap enough.
     
  18. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    1
    the thread was about parts to be replaced.
    i only stated that was one of the pieces that should be replaced.
    the only differing opinion i am giving from any one was that my cast aluminium mount broke because it is one of the parts that should be replaced.
    if it wasn't to be replaced, why are pictures being posted of mounts that are not stock?


    First of all I wouldn't recommend the need for replacing the rear engine mount, just make sure that it is installed correctly. Now the rear engine mount supplied with the kit might not fit the down tube, and if not then something (enlarge or shim, or even modify with few exceptions like a oval down tube) needs to be done to fit correctly. All my rear mounts without exception are stock. There is no need to replace them. I have never heard or seen a rear mount itself malfunction that was mounted correctly.

    Now for the front mounts. In a perfect world the front mounts would install as seen in the instructions, but we get mounts that fit, too large, or too small for the bike tube. To top that off VERY FEW bikes come with the correct "V" angle to mount the engine. As I said before a PERFECT angle will be 75 degrees. So all the front mounts that were fabricated were fabricated in order that the engine will be mounted correctly.

    AS for the mount itself, I can take the mount, wrap it around a correct size tube and bolt it together, and before the mount gave out the bolts or nuts would malfunction, 100% of the time, yes I said 100% of the time. Heck, don't even need a tube at all, the mounts will not break. One of the mounts had to be installed incorrectly and the shear/torque weight broke the mount. I suspect it was caused be the front mount.

    Now I was telling you the reason your rear mount broke to begin with....take it for what its worth. I doesn't take a rocket scientist or a FAA approved shop mechanic to put one of these bikes together. As a FAA approved avionics installer, a pilot and a Air traffic Controller, auto mechanic myself ,leads me to believe your mechanical ability leaves much to be desired to be working around aircraft.

    You're like my grandson, and he is 9. He doesn't really understand why he needs a helmet while riding a bike. I tell him one is for safety, and it's the law. But he still doesn't understand or accepts, but does it anyway.

    Take it for what its worth...Enough said.... I' done.
     
    #38 Al.Fisherman, Jun 27, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2011
  19. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2009
    Messages:
    1,966
    Likes Received:
    1
    DuctTapedGoat Come on now...don't you think that Grade 8 is a little over kill, and hard to find, unless you are talking about a Metric 8.8? Yes it will work but in these cast aluminum engines the Grade 5 is stronger then the cast. So either Grade 5 or 8 will work. I like the grade 8.8 bolts for the sprocket (which mine included them). Plus its hard to find any all-thread above Metric 8.8 (USS Grade 5).
     
    #39 Al.Fisherman, Jun 27, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2011
  20. "the prussian" Shop Dogs

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Messages:
    620
    Likes Received:
    0
    Wow guys !!! Take a step back and remember were all friends here. This is a very important thread ,that many newbies will prob read . We all (myself included) need to learn to lessen the ego content of our post's . Emotion does not translate well via the web . We all know of some tech's that can help a new guy get the best of there new kit , lett's focus on that... $0.02
     

Share This Page