Old Royce Union 18" from my shed...

highlander9

highlander9

New Member
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I'm thinking of keeping all the stock parts, except for maybe swapping out the brakes, multi-gears and derailer from it for some drum brakes , single gear , and engine kit . What do you guys think???

Some questions I have:
Q1: Should I get a Strumy-Archer dyno hub? Are they really worth it? or would something like a 6v generator be best for powering the lights?
Q2: What's the best gear ratio or should i just say heck with it and get a g4 transmission?
Q3: Would I have any use for a transmission when laws in illinois require you to travel under 20mph
Q4: Would a 2.5hp huasheng 142 49cc engine let me travel under 20mph?
 
Not sure why you haven't got any replies. Maybe too many questions.
Dyno hubs and friction generators generally spin too fast (beyond design limit) on a motorized bike and burn out.
Read a lot in the 4 cycle subforum to see what gear ratio most people like.
A shift kit may not be needed for doing 20mph in the flats, but will definitey help maintain speed going up hills or help you reach 20mph faster if you are a big guy.
SHift kit will also help you maintain speed against a strong headwind.
The 2.5 hp thumper motor will cruise smoothly at 15-20mph unless the gear ratio is way off.
I ride a 2 stroke, but I'm planning a thumper build.
 
Interesting developments, wheelbender6. Interesting, because I was just about to order a dyno hub but based on what you found about them burning out but I guess i'll have to hold my horses. NOW, is this something you came across in your own experience or is this hearsay or what???

I have heard that if you used a wired a voltage regulator to it that it would do just fine... It's only an AC generator doing it's thing... I don't know how it could simply burn out, unless you were talking about the light that it powers...
 
highlander9 said:
Interesting developments, wheelbender6. Interesting, because I was just about to order a dyno hub but based on what you found about them burning out but I guess i'll have to hold my horses. NOW, is this something you came across in your own experience or is this hearsay or what???

I have heard that if you used a wired a voltage regulator to it that it would do just fine... It's only an AC generator doing it's thing... I don't know how it could simply burn out, unless you were talking about the light that it powers...
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I have never heard of a Sturmey-Archer dyno hub burning out.....it
is a quality product that works fine on motorized bikes.
 
I had similar concerns regarding the dynohubs... but I went ahead and tried a Sturmey Archer X-FDD & while it didn't put out quite as much power as I thought it would (fixed by using an LED taillight, headlight is still an incandescent) - it's held up really well w/o any problems at all, roughly 4500 miles later it's still working fine - even it's bearings (sealed) like the day they were new (^) Not all websites mention this, but they're available in 2.4W or 3.0W BTW- defo go for the 3W one.

Yer prolly after one w/o the drum brake, but if yer lookin' to get one with a drum, check out the newer XL-FDD w/90mm drum brake for more stopping power :)
 
Thanks for the inputs, All! I've been trying to figure out a way to rectify the AC of the dynohub to power in parallel LED head & tail lights and possibly a USB charge port (as many as 2). Has anybody had any luck with designing a voltage regulating circuit for this kind of activity? I understand there will be some bridge rectifiers and voltage doubling going on... I've been trying to understand from a second-hand point of view, with not a lot of luck. Any further input would be appreciated...
 
I have had bad luck with every type of light except the good ol battery operated ones.get some rechargable batts and your good to go.
 
"Dyno hubs and friction generators generally spin too fast (beyond design limit) on a motorized bike and burn out."

I don't know about the friction drives, but I know the Dynohub is a quality unit. I have a collection of early units from the 60's-70's and we built one into the center double pulley of one of our Briggs bikes. It turns 3000 rpms or more and has been going strong for over 4 years. Of course at that rpm it puts out 87 volts and has to be rectified-regulated down to 6v DC in order to keep a battery pack charged. It works great and is bullet proof.

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highlander9 said:
Thanks for the inputs, All! I've been trying to figure out a way to rectify the AC of the dynohub to power in parallel LED head & tail lights and possibly a USB charge port (as many as 2). Has anybody had any luck with designing a voltage regulating circuit for this kind of activity? I understand there will be some bridge rectifiers and voltage doubling going on... I've been trying to understand from a second-hand point of view, with not a lot of luck. Any further input would be appreciated...
Click to expand...



Sheldon Brown has some good info on dynohub regulating/rectifying. Here's a link.
Dynohubs
 
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