no head gasket

B

billycraven77

New Member
ok i know i suck at spelling lol any ways

i heard that removing the head gasket u would get more power in theory u would but is any one doing it.weld
 
Don't do it! You need the gasket to create a seal between the head & cylinder.
(you would never run your car without a head gasket!)
 
i ran with no base gasket but i kept the head gasket. it will do the same thing, instead of a paper gasket you use permatex sealant,
 
If you remove the base gasket, it changes the port timing...
The correct way to increase compression, is to mill the head.
 
Some engines do better with the port timing changed due to the base gasket being eliminated.
Others hate it. The manufacturing tolerances are not held to much of a standard, so each engine has it's own little quirks. It's fun to play around with these little engines and experiment with them.
 
GearNut said:
The manufacturing tolerances are not held to much of a standard, so each engine has it's own little quirks. It's fun to play around with these little engines and experiment with them.
Click to expand...

your right there my friend, and it really tests your abilities as a hobbyist engine tuner. One misstep that you think is great can gernade the engine in a matter of days while some other small thing (like me removing the BG) will make it work like a charm for hundreds of abusive miles.....

i forgot to mention the port timing. I lowered mine because at BDC the pistons top was actually lower than the bottom of the exhaust port i wanted to get it all out. I had a little more bhang in the engines torque all around. Good stock mod.

On the new engine Im not sure if i want to do very much to it aside from a basic "tune" i dont expect arm ripping powerbands to be gotten reliably loldnut
 
i've been having problems with the head gasket leaking, everytime i start the engine when its fully cooled id get a little puff of air coming out hitting me on the leg that goes away after the engine runs for a few seconds. today i noticed a corner of the head gasket was ripped off, so i took out the gasket and used some of the grey rtv gasket maker stuff to seal it up. gonna try it out tommorow, i really hope it works.
 
You may need to lap the gasket surfaces to get them totally flat.
You will have to remove the both the head and cylinder to do it. I duct tape 300 grit wet/ dry sandpaper to an old 1/4" thick mirror I have. Use water to keep the sandpaper from getting loaded up with aluminum bits. Refresh the water often. Move the part in a circular motion, reversing direction often, or in a slow figure 8. Be carefull to press down squarely and true to the gasket surface. Do not rock either part at all, or you will end up with a surface that is not flat all around.
I just realised that I have read that some cylinders have a raised lip on them. If yours does, do not lap it. Only do the head.
 
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took it for a spin today, found out i had a bigger leak than before, but i fixed it by tighting the bolts a bit tighter. after i gutted my pipe i could easily hit 60km/h, but after a week or so i noticed that the top speed started going down about 1/8 km/h everytime i took i rode it work and back. right before i took out the gasket my top speed was around 55. now i can hit 60km/h easily once more. i just hope that it stays that way.
 
i must say i really like the performance im getting now that the head gasket is gone, top speed is optimal now, and im getting a bit more low end torque, not as much i'd like but its getting there.
 
37.5mph ~= 60km/h

im just going by whatever my sh!tty-wok speedo says, 60km/h displayed is probably less irl. however ive had it pegged at "60km/h" and kept accelerating even more after that, so i figure 60 is a good guess.
 
i agree with venice boy think about what you are doing with your motor, ok if you have extra money sitting around! good luck you will need it!
 
hold on, let us not mock those prepared to experiment...

for longevity the secret is to avoid under-revving and over-revving the 2-stroke.
 
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