No clutch action ! ?

[Airbuzz]

Hi Forum.
I’m building my first bike with the 47.7cc 2-stroke. My current issue is with the clutch. I am not able to get any movement in the cam pin #25 (per the clutch assy diagram) See picture.

When the handle is squeezed to disengage the clutch, all that results is deformation of the clutch cable.

With the cover and lever off, I am not able to push the cam pin in with hand pressure and I am weary about tapping it in with light hammer blows.

To sum it all up, the clutch seems permanently engaged. There is no turning of the little sprocket free of driving the piston. The only way to have the little sprocket move is to use the sparkplug wrench to turn the engine over (at the little sprocket) or spin the tire to have the chain turn the engine over.

P.S. I wonder if I inadvertently tightened something when turning the engine over thru the little sprocket using the spark plug socket?

Any Ideas? Thank you.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Remove all the slack from the cable, have a helper push the arm over, and then re-install the cable/cable end, making it very tight so it can slip. Try it again, you should have clutcxh action.

You can't push the rod in by hand with the cover off.

 

[Pablo]

Have you taken the RIGHT cover off?

 

[Airbuzz]

Hi Guys,

I have already done what you said Bikeguy Joe. If I force the lever arm any more the lever arm will bend. As I said that clutch cam pin can't be pushed in with heavy hand pressure and I'm weary about tapping it in with a mallet or hammer.

Pablo, I haven't taken the opposite side cover off yet. As you can see in the one picture, the cam pin stands out .30 inch., and with pin removed I can see the steel ball inside. Pablo, Did you see my "P.S." statement ? Coulkd that have anything to do with it ?

 

[Pablo]

I would take the right cover off and make sure there isn't something jammed in there.

Then I would remove the spark plug and turn the engine over at the nut or rear wheel/tire. All move smoothly?

The remove the small retaining screw, flower nut and clutch plate. This will be a pain with the clutch engaged…..

Tap gently on the pin - it should feel "springy"…...

 

[Airbuzz]

I'll remove the cover tonight when I get home Pablo. I appreciate your help.

 

[Airbuzz]

Pablo, You say to tap gently on the pin. Is this the #25 cam pin per the clutch assembly diagram that I included in my original post?..The one that I show in my picture? Or is it another pin that is exposed by removing the clutch plate, such as #12 fixed pin or #18 mandrel, both identified in the clutch assy diagram?...Thanks. I appreciate it. I'm new to this.

 

[Pablo]

Pablo, You say to tap gently on the pin. Is this the #25 cam pin per the clutch assembly diagram that I included in my original post?..The one that I show in my picture? .

Yes #25. Just test it to see if you get spring back. Don't wail on it.

 

[Norman]

you should be able to work the clutch arm with vice grip pliers you might try that before breaking out the hammer.
Go to the classic posts and on page 2 is the info on the clutch and how to adjust it with pictures and all kinds of lying by me.
Norman

 

[Pablo]

Just to be 100% clear!!!!

I am NOT advising anyone to hit the clutch arm with a bloody hammer.

What I am telling Airbuzz to do is TAP GENTLY on the protruding PIN shown in the above. Not in attempt to free anything, rather to feel if there is spring back. ALL this AFTER the right side cover is removed for inspection.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

I'm beginning to think it's hitting the right side cover....

 

[Pablo]

I'm beginning to think it's hitting the right side cover....

Something like that is possible, but it could be a giant mis-communication as clutch issues often turn out to be.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

I agree, there are only so many moving parts in the clutch...

 

[Airbuzz]

Hi Pablo and others,

I appreciate this dialog.

Pablo I did as you said. I took the spark plug out and everything turns smoothly. I removed the right side cover, the set screw, flower nut, and clutch plate, nothing was jammed under the cover. I tapped on the pin with a tack hammer__Lightly__ and nothing frees up. There is no left-to-right springieness. There is a little left-to-right play, maybe .040 inch worth. you can see the right side shaft move the .040 when you push the right side pin, but absolutely no spring action. See picture.

Pablo, I appreciate your suggestions ... and everyone else's ! Thanks

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Try spraying some carb cleaner in there to loosen it all up, then remove the rod and ball.

Spray a little more carb cleaning in there once those are out, and then re-assemble it with some grease on the rod and ball.

If the rod and ball are frozen in there with crud/rust/goo, that will take care of it.

 

[Pablo]

I agree with BGJ again (make sure you use a little grease for reassembly).

THEN completely reassemble the LEFT properly, using plenty of grease on the cam arm and in the cover hole, tighten the cover appropriately and reinstall properly tensioned cable and handle. Reassemble the right side, (tighten the flower nut midrange) but just leave the cover off....(of course slide the cable off the clutch arm to do this)

Now (put the cable back on) pull the clutch handlebar lever....what happens on the right side?

 

[Airbuzz]

Will do tonight. However, fyi. She's a brand new engine. When I initially took the cam pin out and looked inside the hole to see the ball bearing, it was all greased, and if you look at some of my pictures you may have noticed that subsequently I gooped up everything including the clutch lever arm and other wear surfaces with red grease. (Amsoil synthetic grease Pablo, nothing but the best) I'll hit it with some carb cleaner tonight from both left and right sides, while protecting clutch pack, and see if it will wiggle free. I'm tempted to try firing the engine up. Maybe it will just break free upon initial use. Thanks you both. I appreciate your guidance!!

 

[Airbuzz]

Pablo and Norm, How much travel should I be getting out of the shaft/clutch?

Thanks

 

[jasonh]

Mine goes no more than maybe half inch.

Re: installing and tightening the cable first, I don't. The more you tighten the flower nut, the further inwards the rod's "home" position will be. I just completely disassembled and reassembled/adjusted my clutch last night. Here's how I did the adjustments:

Put the plate and flower nut back on, and tighten the flower nut as much as you can. See where the rod is. I'll see if I can get a pic in a bit of where mine's at. Pull the rod in and tighten a bit more. Now adjust both of the cable tensioners all the way in. Install the cable as tight as you can. With the lever left out, check to make sure clutch is engaged. Pull lever in, and see if the wheel spins freely. If it doesn't adjust the flower nut out a bit and try again. if it works, then lock the mechanism and see if it still spins freely. use the adjusters to make sure it does.

Usually takes a bit of back-and-forth with it to get right. Then I'll put the lock-screw back on and start up the motor, and see if the motor bogs down a lot when I put the lock on. A little is ok I think, but a lot is no fun. You'll be able to see the pressure plate move just a teeny bit when you squeeze the lever.

Hope that helps.

 

[Airbuzz]

Hi guys,
Removed the ball that's underneath the cam pin with the aid of a magnet and did the carburator cleaner ,...no change. I also tried tightening the flower nut on the right side and loosening a bit to see if that would free up the shaft. Nothing. I go to reinstall everything and now the ball and cam pin on the left hand side stand out more proud than before. In my first post I posted a pic with a metal scale showing .30 inches of protrusion. Now it stands out about .470 and prevents the left side cover from being installed. I inspected the bore its clean. What a challenge. I wonder if A2Zonlinedeals will give me another engine.

Any suggestions Please?