No clutch action ! ?

[Pablo]

By all means you should be in contact with the supplier.....unless you want to tear into the thing, it's still his responsibility.

It's like the mandrel is just too long.......but when you let off the flower nut a bunch and re-assemble, does the clutch actuate at all?

 

[Airbuzz]

Pablo, Its frozen in there well. She's going nowhere. I don't really want to tear in to the clutch assy. I shouldn't have to. This is brand new. I'll be inquiring to a2zonlinedeals soon. Thanks again. You and Jason and Bikeguy Joe are true gentlemen. Please stay posted to this. I'll write further comments as things transpire. I value your help.

 

[2door]

I'm having the identical problem. Everything you've tried, I have too. I've called my supplier, left a message but as of noon today have not heard back yet. I'm not worried about the guy not taking care of me or suggesting a fix but it is fall in Denver and winter might get here before I get a chance to enjoy my ride. It will be interesting to see what the resolve is to our problems so we can post it here for other unfortunates.

 

[Airbuzz]

Hi 2door. I purchased mine from A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA. Currently he is refusing me. Keep in mind that my engine has never been started. I hope he changes his mind. He states a 100% satisfaction guaranteed, but of course he has other conditions.

I'm crossing my fingers. Be sure and let me know how you fair. This is a good test of the true metal of both of our vendors.

I've received good help from very good people on the forum and the forum members deserve to know how it turns out.

P.S. Is your clutch condition exactly like mine?

 

[2door]

My problem is fixed! Chris Hill, my vendor who sells the CH-80 kit, (a very nice kit, by the way) called yesterday and told me what to do. I was laboring under the misconception that the clutch lever should have been movable by hand, at least enough to get the clutch to disengage but I was wrong. It takes a lot more pressure to do that. I used a ten inch crescent wrench on the clutch lever, carefully eased it toward the engine (the same direction that the cable will pull it) and presto; the lever moved and the sproket would then spin freely. I wouldn't have believed that the cable would have been able to apply that much pressure but, hey, I learned something. With luck I'll be on the road this evening. I have to install the throttle twist grip, mix up some fuel and the thing will be ready to fire. Let me know if you have any luck. Keep in mind that it takes a surprising amount of pressure to disengage that little clutch. Good luck.

 

[Airbuzz]

Mine won't budge.

 

[jasonh]

When you tapped the pin with a hammer, did you do it on the right side (clutch side) or left side (small sprocket side)? On the left side, remove the pin and ball. Shoot some penetrating oil in there, wait a few min and replace the pin and ball. On the other side, remove the flower nut and clutch plate, and shoot some oil in from that side. Come back to the left side and gently smack it with a hammer. See if you can get some movement.

 

[Airbuzz]

Done Jason, No movement.

 

[Airbuzz]

Hi 2door. After making several attempts at freeing up the clutch, I stated that I would be seeking a replacement engine.

The vendor that I purchased the 47.7cc kit was A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA. This is my first foray into buying and building a motorized bike, so I went into it quite blind. My Ebay purchase was quick. My choice of vendors, as always, is based on who has the most technically clear advertisement and most reasonably priced product. But we all know that a savvy seller can copy anything from various sources and come across as good.

Admittedly, at the end of my build, well over a month had passed due to delays caused by all the typical stuff in a first-time build. Needless to say, I expected a hard time from the seller.

Well, I explained the situation to Andrew and he notified me last evening that he would be sending me a replacement engine, this morning he gave me the Fedx tracking number.

This is a good guy who stands behind his guarantee regardless of contractual fine print. More in-line with the service that I have come to expect from a huge vendor like Newegg.

I am already eyeing-up another bike for a motor kit and I will definitely purchase the kit from Andrew at A2Z on Ebay. This is my highest complement.

A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA----great vendor !

 

[Airbuzz]

Well guys my odyssey on this one continues. I feel it is my personal duty to inform you of all happenings. This is a community that best be served by a total transparency of all its members and of course the vendors that serve us. It's the only way we can make it work.

If you remember or have read this thread on my clutch problem, it all started out when I received a 47.7cc with a seized clutch. Some time had elapsed with my build. I approached Andrew at A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA,or zone8cycling after some wrangling, he agreed to send me a new replacement. Upon being notified of this I sang his praises on one of my previous posts. My buddy at work who had been observing this, said that I had sold my soul to the Devil with this last post. Boy was my buddy correct. I received a reworked, that I believe to be used motor with a silver paint-over-grease paint job, with boogered-up and bent studs and an EPA sticker haphazardly slapped on top. Oh was I dissappointed. I spent 3-1/2 hours mounting the motor. It runs and the clutch works. Hooray. However The thing vibrates like the dickens at certain speeds. It's a vibration analyst's dream case. This is only a few of the complaints over this engine. (and yes I don't expect these China engines to be a Japanese jem!)

Again I'm back to square one with Andrew at A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA, or zone8cycling. Andrew give me what I paid for. Thanks for reading.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

...and thanks for the update.

Sorry to hear you got a crappy engine in exchange for a crappy engine.

 

[velardejose]

Hi
The vibration thing is more or less normal...
Your mb is on the road and you can enjoy it
I would suggest you to change the china bearings with japan units
Engine feels smoother
Peace

 

[jburr36]

Mine vibrated quite a bit until I finally broke it in. After about 200 miles or so the vibrations were not as bad.

 

[Airbuzz]

There is a happy ending to all of this folks. I got my third engine from Andrew at A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA. At the risk of sounding juvenile, I will digress this time.............

A2ZONLINEDEALS or RAWPOWERUSA rocks----great vendor ! I will make my next purchase from him. These are the highest complements I have ever paid to anyone that was an on-line vendor! I have no reason to ever go to any other vendor than Andrew.

 

[EvilDoer360]

Hi all. I am working on my first build (65.9cc) and I'm having this same problem with no clutch action. My cam pin is also presenting a problem. I took the left side cover off so that I could remove the 10T sprocket and knock the sharps edges off the teeth as suggested in the instructions and now the pin sticks out too far for the cover to be replaced (it protrudes just over a half inch). It fit properly before I took the cover off so this really has me stumped. Between the pin not fitting and having no clutch action I'm afraid that I only have two choices left, A) Tear it apart and fix the problem or B) Tear it apart and fix the problem. Just when I thought I was almost finished. Without these two problems I would have fired her up for the first time this afternoon. If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions I would love to hear what they are. If not then I'm going head first into the guts of this thing and see if I can figure out what the problem is.

 

[molsen27]

Clutch Problem

As someone else has obviously done, I threw the chain on my 58cc Grubee engine and now
the clutch no longer functions. I have removed the pin, the steel actuating ball and the threaded
rod that passes through the clutch shaft housing no longer moves. I have removed all clutch parts to the point where only the clutch shaft remains , both keys (sprocket side and clutch plate side) are removed.
How can I remove this clutch shaft housing from the ball bearing races that it is pressed into without
splitting the engine case? Any help would be appreciated.

Martin in NC