New to Forum and need clutch help

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Copperhead, Apr 5, 2009.

  1. Copperhead

    Copperhead New Member

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    Hi all! I've been lurking here for awhile and finally decided to join the fun. I just got into this hobby after seeing a couple bikes a customer I call on had built. Neat stuff! I,ve ridden motorcycles for years, enjoy driving a '57 Dodge I've restored and generally get a kick out of anything mechanical. Anyway, I finished restoring a '70s vintage 26 inch roadbike and installed an 80 cc kit from Zone 8. The narrow frame presented several clearance problems, but everything worked out fine and it's a blast. I have now installed a Grubee 48 from Gas Bike in a new Huffy cruiser for my wife but I have a problem. The clutch is so stiff she can't pull the lever in and when I do it takes so much effort, I'm afraid the lever will snap. I read a post here about being able to back off the clutch spring preload adjuster through the hole exposed by removing the clutch cable stansion. I tried this and it turned about 1/8 turn then stopped. Not being one to force something unless I know the results, I wanted to get suggestions before going further. Any and all help will be appreciated.:-||
     
  2. toytime

    toytime New Member

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    I always coat my cables in grease and then oil before my installs. I also take the side cover with the clutch lever apart and coat that in grease. If you twist as you pull up, the rod comes out of the side cover. If the cable is routed in a nice smooth bend, I find they work OK. There is a member who makes a better side cover for this very reason. I think it's "creative engineering".
     
  3. Cabinfever1977

    Cabinfever1977 New Member

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    the first couple of times i used the clutch it was hard to pull in too,but it easier after i rode it few times.the engine and clutch must be used and broken in.hopefully the clutch lever holds up.make sure your clutch cable is not getting hung up on nothing and lube the cable up.
     
    #3 Cabinfever1977, Apr 5, 2009
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2009
  4. Large Filipino

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    I did this mod a while back using parts from the hardware store. Does good.
    Man it's nostalgic looking at MOOP1 here. That bike is currently in pieces.

    YouTube - 70cc bicycle engine clutch mod

    No sound. I didn't have that technology at the time.
     
  5. Cabinfever1977

    Cabinfever1977 New Member

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    that bracket and roller for clutch cable is a great idea,i might have to try it sometime.
     
  6. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    I second that
     
  7. Large Filipino

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    It's just me but I had my clutch cable break twice at the lever before I took a look at the
    stock design. I noticed there's a kink from the cable mount to the clutch arm later designing that
    roller. It made a difference in clutch pull by 1/3 and no snapped cables.
    Later on I eliminated the cable mount from the engine entirely. I even retained the same cable when I transferred it over to MOOP2
    Here's that pic with ads removed. It's the same setup on MOOP2. I used a derailier clamp to keep the cable on the frame. On this pic I used the mount the front derailier cable usually goes when it's just a bike.
     

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    #7 Large Filipino, Apr 5, 2009
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2009
  8. industrialphreak

    industrialphreak New Member

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    i love the simplicity of the desighn of the MOOP2, now i figure it would be awsome to combine it with the awsomeness of a backup boost jet!
     
  9. Earthman

    Earthman New Member

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    I didn't like the kink in the cable at the clutch arm either when installing my engine. The original setup looked like a bad idea. So, I added a homemade bracket made from brass I got at the hobby shop to hold the end of the cable at the end of the clutch arm. The bracket is held onto the clutch arm with a screw and nut. I deformed the threads at the end of the screw to keep the nut on. I also had to solder a cable stop onto the cable. My current setup eliminates the kink and and lets the clutch cable pull straight on the end of the clutch arm. The clutch cable should last longer. See attached photos. When the current cable does break, I’ll replace it with heavy duty BMX cable, which looks at least 1.5 times the diameter of the stock cable.
     

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  10. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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