New here hoping to find some answers!

Skyler

Skyler

New Member
Everything is together I have compression, fuel, spark, air flow, clutch seems to be working well. I pedal and let the clutch out it gets harder to pedal it sounds like it's not trying to start. Like combustion isn't happening. my spark plug is dry but when I take my spark plug out and intake manifold off I see fuel. I'm in Colorado so I'm wondering if it's not getting enough oxygen. I've looked up a bunch of thing and tried a bunch of things. Its been together for a week and hasn't started yet.
 

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Welcome to the forum. I would try gapping your plug down to 022 to see if that helps. You can always change it later but a smaller gap can help with the initial start up. Remove the air filter and see it your choke is working correctly. And don't use the tickler/primer button on the carb as it is more likely to flood.

darn nice looking bike
 
Thanks for the compliment on the bike!
I replaced the spark plug with an NGK B6HS and check the gap. Its right at .022. I can try making it a touch smaller. I think I'm going to leave the spark plug out overnight in case it is flooded. I had used the primer before. I checked the choke and it's working. When I pull the lever up it closes and when I push it down it wide open. l feel like my next step is to get a voltmeter and make sure the magneto is creating enough spark. Maybe some silicone for where the carb and intake manifold connect. I've snugged it up pretty good and made sure the intake manifold is as far into the carb as it can go. Maybe some starting spray?
 
Also any chance my fuel mixture could be wrong? Thinking about it now I paid for a gallon of gas but got 87 instead of 85 so it was a little less than a gallon but I still added 8 oz of 2 stroke oil. Just looking it over my fuel seems wicked blue.
 
I was going to ask about the color of the gas mix as it is pretty strong blue. Anyway I see that you have followed the directions for the gas/oil mix at 16:1 and that's just too heavy. The manufacturers recommend this to protect the warranty. You are safe at 32:1 even for the break in period as long as you don't push the engine too hard. Be sure not to overheat or run it too long. This might be enough to get her to fire up.
 
As Chaz says... Me thinks too much oil. Do 4oz oil 1 gal gas = 32:1. I wouldn't do start spray, it washes away the lubricant in the rings. Also, welcome to the forum and that is a sharp looking bike.
 
Welcome to the forum, I’m not picking on you but the clutch will work better if you run the cable down the right side of the bike, cable tied to the frame down tube. The tight angle it’s in now will fray the cable quickly.
 
That's kinda why I haven't tied anything down yet. Growing pains lol. I'll take all the advice I can get and that totally makes sense, I'll switch it over today when I'm changing the fuel.
 
That's a good point about washing away the oil Allen. I use to see some other mechanics use brake cleaner as starting spray so I see how it would. Ive just read some people recommend trying it and thats why I asked.
 
Good eye Greg. although I looked at her pics, I didn't even notice the clutch cable on the wrong side. Hang in there Sky, you have come to the answer place - so far looks like a great job!
 
Thanks Allen, and thanks for the compliment on the bike too. I will, I like building and I like the community I've seen around these bikes. I'm hoping to get more involved!
 
Also a question on the rear sprocket. Greg I noticed yours is set up like mine with the teeth on the "outside" further away from the spokes and Allen you have yours with the teeth on the "inside" with the teeth closer to the spokes. Is that dependent on frame clearance and chain alignment? I originally had my teeth on the inside but had issues with throwing my chain. It seemed like it might be binding on the front sproket or have an alignment issue. I also had my tensioner at the highest point and I thought that might be why it was binding. So I removed a link and lubed up the chain when I flipped the rear sproket. My alignment is good now but is wicked close to the frame. The master link was nicking the frame, so I took it out and pressed in a normal link and it seems to have enough clearance.
 
I understand Right Now - it's most important to get it to run.
Teeth in teeth out? It all depends what makes for the best alignment. from sprocket to sprocket. Also, If your tire size is bigger than 26" x 1.95 you have the added concern the chain will scuff the tire sidewall. Most of us (not all) use a sprocket adapter which grabs the coaster brake hub instead of using the rag joint which comes with the kit. The adapter allows you side to side adjustment you can not get with the rag joint. You will need to buy a new sprocket with the adapter, Kit sprockets do not fit the adapters. Here's a link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2B6HHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
says unavailable right now But; is avail. from other vendors on side bars of the forum home page. This is what you want. hub size 1.5 (1and a half inch) 44 tooth.
If you have a chain breaker, you can do away with the tensioner altogether. for tips on how, check out my happy chains album.
https://motorbicycling.com/media/albums/happy-chains.1499/
 
You are correct, chain alignment dictates which way I install a sprocket. I have tried the no tensioner set up but so far I have had clearance issues.
 
Diamond shape frame can be frustrating yes... Less frustrating on a Beach Cruiser frame such as she has, if you are patient. Also take note I use #41 machine chain not kit. (I think a hair wider?)
 
Oh man. I was just jumping on here to tell y'all that once I turned off the choke it started right up! I also changed the fuel mixture but even after that it wasn't starting and it's wicked hot here so I was like I probably don't need the choke on and boom on I was cruising along. I appreciate all yalls help! I switched over my clutch cable too
 
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