New + Confused

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Dominate., Oct 11, 2008.

  1. Dominate.

    Dominate. New Member

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    Hi, I recently got the 70cc HT motor and had a couple questions about it. First off let me state that I am a total noob so please pardon any questions that may seem ridiculous. I read up on the motor prep/care page on this forum so I think I've got a basic idea of what to do before the install. First off, the prep guide said to grease the wheel bearings, does it mean the wheel bearings in the engine, the bike, or both?. And also is the connecting rod supposed to be rusted -_- ? Do I replace all the gaskets on the motor? and I don't quite understand what a fatty tuned pipe is and how it works. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
     
  2. stude13

    stude13 New Member

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    go to your local smoke. they have pipes for fatties. mitch
     
  3. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    Dominate, ya need to do major reading in the search forum about Happy Time engines, which is what you have. Read the archives; the answers to the future lie in the past.

    I believe the instructions mean to lube the wheel/axle bearings with high-speed grease.

    Good luck reading.
     
  4. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    First of all let me answer your questions. You have obviously done enough reading already to know what you want to know.

    The wheel bears are in the bike wheels. Just pack them with a good axle grease the type to use is just a matter of what you have handy as far as I'm concerned.

    Replace engine gaskets only if they fail. I still have one of my original and one I had to replace because I took parts off the engine after it was mounted. For the first mount use the ones that came with your kit. Just use a sealant.

    Don't let the rust bother you. Wipe it off with a rough cloth and some light oil if you feel it necessary before you install. I personally would just insall it and forget it.

    You will need to put a sealant on the carb intake joint though since this almost always leaks air.

    Good luck if you have any more questions just ask someone will answer them rather than send you on a library trip.

    For the members here, remember we were all newbies once. Those questions required a second. You all knew the answers please don't send the poor new guy off looking for posts. They have no idea where to look, after all they are new.

    This is not the brand x forum. If You don't want to, or can't answer the questions then don't. Someone else will.

    PS.. I have no idea what the fatty pipe is, that someone else will have to answer. I just used my kit like it came and have enjoyed it very much.
     
    #4 deacon, Oct 12, 2008
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2008
  5. Walter F.

    Walter F. New Member

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    DEACON, I know it's Sunday , are you preachin' to us??? While you, a famous writer/novelist, are up on your "soapbox" give us a tutorial on how to use the spell checker, with a side-bar on punctuation. A new person here would think some of us are a bunch of hillbillys. Happy Trails Walter F.
     
  6. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    Don't worry about fatty pipes and stuff, just get 'er running. Lots of threads to help.....

    Connecting rod rusted? Got pics?
     
  7. deacon

    deacon minor bike philosopher

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    I know and I'm sorry it came off that way. When I built my bike this forum did not exist. I will never forget the frustration of being told to go read the past post. I had no idea where to look in frustration I went ahead and guessed. In doing that I managed to seize my engine. Seems I put the carb linkage together wrong. The c clip went through the carb and into the cylinder where it prompty froze the piston. Fortunately it didn't do any real harm except cause me to buy piston rings because again I couldn't get a question answered on the other forum. Finally Norman took pity on me and mentored me through putting it all back together or I wouldn't have a bike now.

    I will never forgive the other forum for that. I would rather people not answer at all, than to tell the newbie to look it up. Someone who doesn't mind answering simple question will come along and answer it. It's just me I'm sure so forgive the testifying. I'm afraid tact isn't always my strong suit.
     
  8. jburr36

    jburr36 Member

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    My connecting rod is somewhat brownish too. I've seen a lot of posts with complaints about rusted rods but after closer examination I decided that it is probably a normal color for that alloy. I'm not worried about it.
     
  9. Nomad

    Nomad New Member

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    Touch`e, well said Deacon, I'll second that, if you know the answer to a question, answer it, if NOT, telling a "new" enthusiast to "look it up" is not a very friendly way to encourage the "hobby".
     
  10. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    Deacon you make a good point. In defense of the guys who said to read threads, I don't think they/we were trying to be rude. It looks like he had four issues.

    1) Wheel bearings - addressed. Lube the bike wheel bearings
    2) Fatty pipe - addressed. Worry about pipes later
    3) Rusty connecting rod - addressed. (more or less) Not rusty, bronze alloy:confused:
    4) A general confusion about HT stuff - addressed - lots of reading will calm the nerves to find out lots of items have been attacked already.

    Play nice, ask questions...people will answer! :D:ride::ride2:
     
  11. Creative Engineering

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    Hello all,

    Rusty Con-Rod?

    I haven't had one of these engines totally apart yet...But...

    I would guess that the process of making the rod would involve a case hardenable material such as ANSI 8620 or some hong kong phooey eqivalent.

    You don't want the entire rod hardened, only the areas that will accept bearings.

    In this case the areas to be left "soft" are copper coated...which may give the appearance of rust or "bronze" especially after heat treating.

    In a case hardening process, a very tough material is used for the core of the part...Carbon is introduced to create the case hardening...usually .015-.040 deep.

    The carbon wll not leach into the copper coat. This way you have a part that is hard where it needs to be...the big & small ends and tough through the beam.

    Again talking off the cuff about what would be standard for a steel rod...so don't quote me on this one...but I would be willing to bet this is the case.

    Jim
     
  12. Dominate.

    Dominate. New Member

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    Ah I see. Thank you all for your help, it is greatly appreciated. As for the rusty connecting rod I'll take a look at it again later and take some pics, Jim, you're probably right. I just quickly tore down the engine and left it at a buddies house so I didn't really get a chance to closely examine it (so it may not be rust after all :) ).

    For the people who told me to look stuff up on the forum, I completely understand where you guys are coming from. I am a member of several other forums including my beloved Tacoma forum, and it is sometimes frustrating when I see people asking the same question about a certain mod a thousand times when it can easily be found using the search function.

    All in all, thanks everyone + Deacon for the help. Hopefully, I'll get my new bike up and running by the end of this week (still in high school so I don't have much time on my hands to finish in 1 day)
     
  13. jburr36

    jburr36 Member

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    Sometimes a certain symptom in these engines can be caused by many differents issues. I would bet that others just browsing through this and other threads have the same problems but find that the cause of their problem isn't necessarily the same as the author of the thread but something that a respondent mentioned through his/her own experience in the process.

    I don't usually bother with the other forum because they tell others to look it up when a question is asked. I find it rather difficult and a waste of time doing so.
     
  14. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    If one more person calls these engines happy times, I will surely break down and cry.
    Happytime is the same as other "slurs", and has become so common that most people use it as the name for these engines, and don't know the reason they are saying it.

    Happy time was tagged by someone whom has done these frame mount built in China engine kits a great dis-service and has actually tried on several occasions to cause them to be outlawed, or at least to stop the import of them.

    Thanks for listening.
     
  15. Pablo

    Pablo Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor

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    That's why I like "chengine".
     
  16. Walter F.

    Walter F. New Member

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    Look here GENIUS VISIONARY, maybe they call it Happy Time to keep from calling it what we all call it when it won't start, vibrates, sputters, runs fine one day-POS the next, and the many other maladies that befall the users of these engines. In public I call mine a China Girl, I bet that's offensive to you too. What does your GENIUS VISIONARYNESS think we the unwashed masses ought call these primitive little engines? Happy Trails Walter F.

    PS I can spot BS from a Blimp in a Blizzard, and it's snowing all around you, you're just messin' with our head!!!!!
     
  17. Nomad

    Nomad New Member

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    How about we call it "One Cylinder Wonder" wonder, why I bought it, wonder why it won't start, wonder why it sheared the studs, wonder why the muffler pipe is so short and ALWAYS is in the way of something...... fill in the blanks
     
  18. jburr36

    jburr36 Member

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    How about calling these Fancy Asian Reconnoissance Transport Engines or FART Engines? Personally I like HT better even though it sounds somewhat childish.
     
  19. Bikeguy Joe

    Bikeguy Joe Godfather of Motorized Bicycles

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    I say "My bike engine", then if there is need for more specifics, I say "it'sa dax".

    I use "dax" like a generic term that is not a generic term, like "frisbee", with no capital.
     
  20. logan69

    logan69 New Member

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    i am a little off topic but i have problem with a nut that wont open. the nut just doesnt move. its the one right above the coaster brake arm. after i removed the wheel i tried to get this one to unscrew but it doesnt move...any help???
     

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