My first race bike build!!!

I think i will use this on my Jack shaft to hold hold my disc brake
 

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That'll work... just be sure to put some kind of guard in place over the rotor, you Don't want that thing ro rub into your calf when you least expect it...
 
I'm looking to buy a rear sprocket for my bike now how many teeth should i get for my bike I'm thinking a 36 tooth? will it give me the speed I need with a 29 a bike?
 
Best way is to do the math,
or try an online calculator.
What revs do you want for what speed?
If your going to race the bike, I'd be getting a couple of sprockets for different tracks.
normally your looking at getting max torque at 1/2 max speed for a tight track,
but only testing will give you your ideal sprocket size.
Maths will get you un the ball park though.
Start with max revs, and desired top speed, work out wheel Rpm at top speed, then work out the ratio of your jack shaft and you will have desired final drive ratio.
 
I agree with Theon 100% here... this part you'll need to calculate and figure out, take in part the top ratio of the torque converter for top speed calculations, or if acceleration is more important, then pay more attention to the low ratio of the torque converter. I'm not sure which model converter you have but mine was like 3:1 low with a little bit better than 1:1 at high range. I remember my go kart had a 60 tooth rear sprocket with an 11 tooth at the jack shaft and the owner's manual said the gearing range started at around 18:1 and would shift up to 6.6:1. this gave a top speed of about 35mph when the engine was stock, but the top speed nearly doubled after it was modified and the governor was disabled. Those speeds were with 18" tall tires and the stock max rpm was around 3600 if I remember right... that was all over 30 years ago, but I'm pretty sure the converter ratio range was from 3:1 up to 1:1.

You'll need to know the top ratio of the torque converter for best results when calculating the gearing so maybe a call to the seller or the manufacturer will get you this info as some of the bigger models can overdrive a certain amount which will throw off the rest of your calculations.
 
Driven unit: 6"
Drive clutch bore: 19mm (3/4")
Belt: Asymmetrical type
Top width: 19mm(3/4")
Sprocket teeth: 12 teeth
Engagement range: 2350±200 RPM
 
Driven unit: 6"
Drive clutch bore: 19mm (3/4")
Belt: Asymmetrical type
Top width: 19mm(3/4")
Sprocket teeth: 12 teeth
Engagement range: 2350±200 RPM
 
Hahaha... that's the sound of Power... got any ideas how to silence it yet? Does it have a muffler on it at all or just a pipe?
 
Try routing the pipe so it's pointing to the ground and behind you, I ran my Buell with a straight pipe for a few weeks and it was too loud even thru the helmet, but I quieted it up with a Screamin Eagle straight thru muffler, it was still loud, but it took out that nasty shrill high pitch rasp so it had that nice, powerful low pitch tone but still nice and noisy, but not so harsh on the eardrums... I can even ride it with my half shell helmets now
 
A really good non restrictive pipe for that... try one of those supertrapp silencers for dirtbikes, they're really pricy new but I see them on ebay for cheap from time to time.
Otherwise, maybe try a 4 stroke motorcross muffler from a YFZ 450 or the Suzuki or Kawasaki counterparts, thses are a bit quieter and still not too overly restrictive, look for them used on ebay, lots of people buy a new bike and swap these mufflers out after a few miles or sometimes before they even ride it the first time so they sell them on ebay for cheap.
 
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