My first race bike build!!!
- Thread starter deonsrace
- Start date
Here's where I get most my bearings from, he has the right size bearings for the piston pin as well as the 6202 size for the main and clutch bearings on the China Girl engines... but he has a ton of selection at a decent price... http://stores.ebay.com/Bearing-Wholesale-Lots?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
He also has these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-Shaft-...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item53fda9691f if you can find them in the right size for your app.
What you're going to need is a high speed ball bearing that's the same size as your jack shaft, I'm assuming 5/8" You can tell which ones use a ball bearing in them by the absense of a grease fitting, the ones with grease fittings are usually a single ball and meant for low speed use. also, the pillow blocks I'm seeing on his ebay page look like the inner bearings can be removed and replaced if they do wear out.
The jack shaft will turn at about the same speed as the engine when the CVT is at it's highest ratio so make sure the bearings can withstand at least the same rpm the engine redlines at
The ball bearings can usually withstand the same rpm as long as they're sealed or you can lube them... this one would work good for a jackshaft... http://www.ebay.com/itm/UCSLP202-10...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item53f7f9fdca It's a ball bearing that can be lubed with a grease gun. A sealed ball bearing would work well too and will probably be a bit less messy, but with one like this, you can use higher quality high temp grease etc..
With ball bearings, there's usually a code in the part number to tell whether it's rated for high rpm or not, like the 6202 bearings for the China Girl engines, the brand SKF uses a -C3 at the end of the part number to indicate it's higher precision and suitable for more rpm. Some of them will have RS or 2RS at the end of the part number as well, but this just indicates Rubber Seal or 2Rubber Seals. But it's the next set of numbers or letters that usually indicate how precisely they were made and how fast they can turn... for example, These are rated for 15000 rpm, but have no suffix in their part number... http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-6202RS-1...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5d303bb464 most namebrand bearings will have a suffix to indicate that they're heavy duty, sealed, or for high rpm. Now compare the RPM rating for these bearings that have a suffix on the part number... http://www.ebay.com/itm/6202ZZ-16-1...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item53e909f12e
Each bearing manufacturer has their own numbering system, most of them roughly follow the same system, but they may have prefixes or suffixes in the part numbers to indicate special features or load and rpm ratings etc...
Each bearing manufacturer has their own numbering system, most of them roughly follow the same system, but they may have prefixes or suffixes in the part numbers to indicate special features or load and rpm ratings etc...
Quick correction for the C3 suffix, the C3 means that it has a little extra clearance built in to compensate for heat expansion, not the other way around Like I mentioned earlier. The CN at the end means it has more precise tolerance which is good, but not for high rpm because there's no compensation for the heat expansion, it may work ok outside the engine on a jack shaft but I'll need to look up the rpm ratings for the CN rated bearings.
No problem... I kinda taught myself a little on that one as well... a lot of those bearing part numbers turn out to be a standard code that carries over most namebrands etc... Now that I know a little more about bearings, I know what to put and what not to put in my engine... and where to get the good stuff cheap... lol
the bottom hose?? that would be your over flow hose, route it where ever your would be comfortable with gasoline running if the float sticks open the fuel poors out that hose instead of flooding the **** out of your engine and or if you losen that screw on the bottom to empty the carb it also goes out that same hole.
Do not plug that hose into anything
Do not plug that hose into anything
Like Mrfubs said, the top hole is the bowl vent and must remain open to run right, the hose can be routed anywhere, and the bottom is the bowl drain, this just makes it convenient when you drain the bowl so you can route the gas to a drip pan etc if you need to drain the carb like for storage etc.
You can route both hoses together (not connected to eachother) so they vent at a low point on the frame. I usually route these hoses down low on the rear swing arm or frame section and beside the rear tire so fuel won't accidentally hit the tire if it overflows while on the road.
You can route both hoses together (not connected to eachother) so they vent at a low point on the frame. I usually route these hoses down low on the rear swing arm or frame section and beside the rear tire so fuel won't accidentally hit the tire if it overflows while on the road.
1/16" is about .060" thick, or 14 gauge so they should do ok, but you should look for the thicker 12 or 11G size if you can get them. Some spokes are measured in wire gauge size with the bigger the number the thinner the wire size, so if you got a choice between 12G and 14G, you would want the 12G size. They also make 11G spokes so if you can find them, this would be the size you would prefer. You can also look online for a wire gauge to inch conversion chart if you see some with the size indicated in wire gauge so you'll know what you're getting.
There's a wire gauge to inch conversion chart here for your convenience... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes
There's a wire gauge to inch conversion chart here for your convenience... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes