Did another test run. With my brake installed this time. My sprocket set srews all fell out. Lost all 4 lol. Going to ace to get my set srews in a few. Should i use the blur thread locker gorm loctite to keep these things from falling out on me? Or something else?
My first race bike build!!!
- Thread starter deonsrace
- Start date
Yup... locktite everything that can come loose... and everything you think might come loose... that happens in a new build because everything is wearing in so you'll have to go back and check everything quite a few times, then after several rides things will begin to stay put better and better.
I have a major air leek some where in my manifold when i start the bike it jumps to high speed with no throttle. Cable is not hung up. Checked that already.
Currently iam using a radiator hose to be the connection of my two part billit intake. Im using hose clamps to tie in down. Ive used permenex to try to fix this air leek and still have it.
Whats the best way to find this leek and fix it for good?
Currently iam using a radiator hose to be the connection of my two part billit intake. Im using hose clamps to tie in down. Ive used permenex to try to fix this air leek and still have it.
Whats the best way to find this leek and fix it for good?
Spray a little WD 40 around where you think you might have a leak and listen for changes in idle.
some hoses will separate from the gas exposure, you can check for this by removing that section of hose and then look to see if it's beginning to separate or collapse from inside. I've used a pre bent section of radiator hose before to make a charge pipe on an old turbo build I did and the hose didn't seem to mind the fuel exposure, but not all hoses are created equally.
Also check everything from the carb to the engine's intake port for any hardware that worked it's way loose, check that there are no cracks in the manifold or the carb base, check th throttle to make sure it's closing all the way etc... Since these are only one cylinder there's not much that can go wrong and not a lot to check so finding the leak should be fairly easy. Also pay particular attention to the rubber hose connection where the carb connects to the manifold for any cuts or damage caused by the clamps as sometimes the clamp can cut into the hose as it's tightened down.
Also check everything from the carb to the engine's intake port for any hardware that worked it's way loose, check that there are no cracks in the manifold or the carb base, check th throttle to make sure it's closing all the way etc... Since these are only one cylinder there's not much that can go wrong and not a lot to check so finding the leak should be fairly easy. Also pay particular attention to the rubber hose connection where the carb connects to the manifold for any cuts or damage caused by the clamps as sometimes the clamp can cut into the hose as it's tightened down.
Have you disabled or removed the governor on the engine yet? that'll give you the rpm to get pretty well past 40 or more... Also, which carb are you running? The stock carb may have a small high speed adjust screw at the bottom of the bowl which can back out causing the bike to run rich and lose power
Sounds like it's jetted too rich or the needle is set too high... Mikuni jets are fairly cheap and easy to get so if you get 3 more jets, each a size smaller than the other, that should get you dialed in. Mikuni jets are available in 2.5 increments so if you got a 70 for example, one size down would be 67.5 and so on. Also check to be sure your fuel enrichener (choke) isn't partially off it's seat when the choke is shut off if it was running ok before. The float level also plays a part in the final air fuel mix as well and the idle mix is added to the final mix too so if it's set rich it'll also add to the midrange and top end.