I have a 49cc 4-stroke and while adjusting the motor I noticed there is a large crack on one of the "bricks" for the mount. the part that bolt to the bike frame. I now that whatever material it is made out of is not great so now I need to replace. Are there any alternatives other than buying the same one and hoping for the best?
Mounting plate
- Thread starter Choochoo_nesby
- Start date
I haven't had any problems with the mount you listed but I think the best route is to tig weld or braze a plate
on the bike. I have the one you listed on a 49cc engine and it's ok but a good permanent welded one would
be better.
I've got a Predator 212cc on the extended frame SixthreeZero bike and the extended channel I got from MBRebel that fits the CNC mount works
but I'd rather clean up the mess with the bolts and mounting plate. The torque off that engine can tear things up even though I don't abuse
the bike. Thanks, for your suggestions!
Hey, there is life on here, thank you for the replies. I was able to get it welded, not sure how strong it will be though. I did order this: https://www.gasbike.net/collections...ft-100-cnc-bicycle-mounting-kit-free-shipping. It looks to be much sturdier and will save time when I'm ready to upgrade to a 79cc or possibly the 212cc.Also MotoMagz, I did "make" a slightly different mounting solution to fit my bike properly.
That mount is a better quality mount versus the standard 49cc mount sent in the kit. The mount is standard for the kit on the
"Death Row Preditor 212cc." You might want to check to see how the mounting holes line up and you will probably have to
drill them? I consider the mounts on 79cc and 212cc kits are just temporary mounts that are available to try out on a bike.
A drilled plate welded would be the best choice for a permanent engine mounting solution on both of the engines. There
is another mount available for the Predators which the fellas are using: Vertical Mount
Dennis
That actually looks like a really good one, and would probably fit very nicely on my bike. I'll keep that in mind for the future. I'm hoping to get the bike up and running tomorrow and will take some pics, although I started a thread in stretch choppers/cruisers sub and that one seems abandoned.
One gripe I had with the mount was that the stainless allen bolts were excessively long in length and as far as MBRebel's steel channel
that is about 13" long, the slots weren't wide enough for the stainelss allen bolts. The CNC mount was ok and make sure it fits good on
the front mount and the seat tube. My seat tube sits at a larger angle than most tubes and I had to grind the metal away to make sure
it fits correctly but I'm still not impressed with these mounts and the others for the 49cc engines.
Dennis
Here it is, finally got to take it for a spin. The third picture was to show the exhaust from the back.
Nice job on the bike!
I don't recognize the Micargi frame? I have a 49cc on 26" Micargi Touch bike and it's been real reliable.I've got the "Ghost Racer" transmission on it and have messed with different sprockets for it. The ride is terrible since it doesn't
have a suspension fork on the front. I might change it since a suspension fork made a huge difference on the Sixthreezero bike.
When the weather was hot in the Summer I had all kinds of problems with the engine. I found that the oil was breaking down
from the heat and switched to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 Synthetic oil and that cured the problem. The non-synthetic oils are
obsolete on these engines nowadays since they have to work harder and run hotter. I think you have plenty of room for a 79cc
engine. The Micargi frames remind me of the old-school heavy framed bikes. I'll have to get some pictures out on the two bikes
I built. I had a chance to sell the little 49cc but decided not to just in case the big one goes down and I needed cheap
transportation. My 49cc has well over 3,000 miles on it and I haven't had to do much on the engine.
Dennis
The frame is a Micargi Royal Dutch, I really do like their frames. I also have a Seattle SS but I don't plan on motorizing that one, although it would look very nice. This is my second bike I've built, I'll have to take pictures of my other bike, it's a standard beach cruiser with the same engine but the "Ghost Racer" transmission on it. I am a little worried about the transmission as it seems "weaker" and I am by no means a small person. I still want to put on a different gas tank, maybe a in-frame one and the pedal crank chain needs a tensioner to keep the chain from falling off.Nice job on the bike!
I've got the "Ghost Racer" transmission on it and have messed with different sprockets for it. The ride is terrible since it doesn't
have a suspension fork on the front. I might change it since a suspension fork made a huge difference on the Sixthreezero bike.
When the weather was hot in the Summer I had all kinds of problems with the engine. I found that the oil was breaking down
from the heat and switched to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 Synthetic oil and that cured the problem. The non-synthetic oils are
obsolete on these engines nowadays since they have to work harder and run hotter. I think you have plenty of room for a 79cc
engine. The Micargi frames remind me of the old-school heavy framed bikes. I'll have to get some pictures out on the two bikes
I built. I had a chance to sell the little 49cc but decided not to just in case the big one goes down and I needed cheap
transportation. My 49cc has well over 3,000 miles on it and I haven't had to do much on the engine.
Dennis
I ended up putting a 1 Gal. tank on the 212 since GasBike sent a little tank with the kit. A fella has to discard a lot of their
stuff from their kits. The only special item in their kit was the CVT which is different from the standard Comet converter.
The EZ-Qmatic converter is the transmission for the 49cc although it is pricey but would be worth it. The "Ghost Racer's"
transmission is a weak link on the kit and requires a lot of maintenance. Getting the alignment on the pedal chain and
the transmission is always a hassle and that is time consuming. A good tensioner on the transmission helps. I didn't have
enough of the bicycle chain available on the stretched frame 212 so I tried that cheap 415 chain on the pedal sprockets
and it works better than the regular pedal chain. I don't remember what the chain number was on the regular chain. I had
more problems with the chain even on the 49cc bike and it kept coming off. You don't want to rely on a coaster brake to
stop you! I've had a chain come off of the pedal sprocket several times which mean NO BRAKES! Put a good drum brake,
v-brake, caliper brake or disk brake on the front. I had a heavy caliper brake on the 212 last year and then switched to a
disk brake on the front and actually, the caliper brake would out brake the disk brake!
Dennis
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It might be harder to see but I added a disk to the front, I'm not crazy and am aware things can go bad real fast. The crank that came with the kit is smaller so I had to remove a couple of links, although the master link I'm using is wider and I'm going to have to replace it eventually. I did have only a coaster on my other bike when i had a 2-stroke on it, just riding around my neighborhood at about 20mph I had a few close calls. I really need to do a photo shoot of my other bike, I ended up replacing nearly everything but the frame, seat and handlebars. Any comments or criticisms are welcome, I'm trying to stir things up here.
One thing I would change on it is the fuel valve on the tank. Reason, there is a cheap filter built into the cheapo potmetal valve
assembly. I've had one of them apart and they are built low-quality with a rubber gasket that can scrub rubber off and get
into the fuel and also block the valve. What I do about replacing it is order a inline valve with 5/16" fuel line connections on
each end then I use a 1/2" NPT Tap that takes a 21/64" drill bit for tapping holes. The drill bit doesn't have to be used since
the tap can be used to turn the NPT fine threads into the tanks fuel outlet. You then get a brass nipple for 5/16" fuel line
hose and attach your fuel line to it then the line connects to a fuel filter. The filter is ahead of the fuel valve so that anything
in the tank's fuel will get trapped in the filter. Adapting 5/16" fuel line from the valve to the carburetor is a problem but
some of the smaller plastic fuel line can be used to connect to it. I had a vandal put a packet of sugar in my 212's tank
and a small piece of the paper got caught in the fuel valve when I had the filter and valve switched around. The worse
problem was the sugar messed up a ring in the engine, low compression. Solution is to get a locking gas cap!
Expensive but not as much as a engine
Ebay has fuel filters with 5/16" hose inlets with 1/8" hose outlets available and I didn't have one at the time since the
valves and filters I bought all had the 5/16" hose connections.
Dennis
assembly. I've had one of them apart and they are built low-quality with a rubber gasket that can scrub rubber off and get
into the fuel and also block the valve. What I do about replacing it is order a inline valve with 5/16" fuel line connections on
each end then I use a 1/2" NPT Tap that takes a 21/64" drill bit for tapping holes. The drill bit doesn't have to be used since
the tap can be used to turn the NPT fine threads into the tanks fuel outlet. You then get a brass nipple for 5/16" fuel line
hose and attach your fuel line to it then the line connects to a fuel filter. The filter is ahead of the fuel valve so that anything
in the tank's fuel will get trapped in the filter. Adapting 5/16" fuel line from the valve to the carburetor is a problem but
some of the smaller plastic fuel line can be used to connect to it. I had a vandal put a packet of sugar in my 212's tank
and a small piece of the paper got caught in the fuel valve when I had the filter and valve switched around. The worse
problem was the sugar messed up a ring in the engine, low compression. Solution is to get a locking gas cap!
Expensive but not as much as a engine
Ebay has fuel filters with 5/16" hose inlets with 1/8" hose outlets available and I didn't have one at the time since the
valves and filters I bought all had the 5/16" hose connections.
Dennis
I had to order a larger 1-gallon tank for the 212 bike and it came off of Ebay from China. The finish on the tank was good
but the seller put the tank in a plastic shipping package and when I seen how it was shipped it confirmed what I thought,
the tank had a ding in it. This tank did not have that potmetal valve on it but would take a brass fuel fitting which was a
plus since I didn't have to put new threads in the outlet on the tank. I wasn't going to ship it back and let Ebay know that
the product wasn't packaged right. I'll go ahead and use it through the Summer and then figure out a way to mount a
motorcycle tank that I bought last Winter. The motorcycle tank I got in was a shipped in a box and really packed good.
The tank also had a locking gas cap on it and the paint finish was outstanding with no flaws or dings in it. I really hate
putting it on a motorized bike instead of a motorcycle.
Dennis
but the seller put the tank in a plastic shipping package and when I seen how it was shipped it confirmed what I thought,
the tank had a ding in it. This tank did not have that potmetal valve on it but would take a brass fuel fitting which was a
plus since I didn't have to put new threads in the outlet on the tank. I wasn't going to ship it back and let Ebay know that
the product wasn't packaged right. I'll go ahead and use it through the Summer and then figure out a way to mount a
motorcycle tank that I bought last Winter. The motorcycle tank I got in was a shipped in a box and really packed good.
The tank also had a locking gas cap on it and the paint finish was outstanding with no flaws or dings in it. I really hate
putting it on a motorized bike instead of a motorcycle.
Dennis
Since you mentioned the fuel line, for some reason the end that connects the tank to the inline filter is splitting. I bought the fuel line off Amazon so i have no idea what is the cause. It is literally only the end that the filter plugs into and I just put a fresh section on it today, already split. So it has happened twice now, only that end so i don't think the line is being melted. Any clues?
I take it the line is a plastic flexible line? I tried some of the blue clear plastic line and found that when I put the bike in storage
and in the Spring the line was stiff like a hard fuel line. That stuff had to come off the bike and I went with automotive fuel line
that does not do that. I was wondering if you were running alcohol mixed fuel? Alcohol will soften the plastic and dry the fuel
line out even with non-blended alcohol fuel. Never use use alcohol blended fuel on motorized bikes.
I use the automotive fuel line and it has never bothered with the engines. Most of the problems on the bikes is that the carburetor
inlet is small, 1/8" and if a fella uses the small plastic line it gets stretched and eventually can split. I try to use the 5/16" fuel line
and have to adapt it down to 1/8" line with a adapter. That was a problem on the stock Preditor 212cc engine carburetor since
it uses a small fuel inlet and I had to go from 1/8" to 5/16" fuel line. The Mikuni has an inlet on it that takes 5/16" fuel line so it's ok.
I've adapted the small inlet size by using a small copper tube flaring on one end to adapt to 5/16" line. A fuel filter with
a 5/16" inlet and a 1/8" outlet is the best choice on those small carburetors.
Dennis
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Update: I figured out what the issue is. Here are a couple of close-ups of the filter inlet
.
And here is one of the line:
The problem was trusting the factory that pumps these out or their QC. Lesson learned, will try not to let it happen again.
.
And here is one of the line:
The problem was trusting the factory that pumps these out or their QC. Lesson learned, will try not to let it happen again.
Was that the filter shipped with the kit which I am assuming it was? I threw away the one shipped with my kit and got a bigger
clear plastic one.
clear plastic one.
