Morini Update! How's yours doin?
- Thread starter europorsche914
- Start date
Awesome Goat!, please keep us posted with the 3-shoe. That's a upgrade I would really like to do soon and very curious how much better it really is.
I forgot how good the full suspension setup really is ! took some pills and rode all day- engine is fully broken in and now it really pulls on the very steep hills--i like the 2 shoe which works great as a brake while slowing - there is some back pressure-no freewheeling but it makes it harder to pedal unless you take off the chain - bike works great on our abandoned KVR trail !
I finally had time to swing by the shop today and found a sprocket laying around. Thinking it was a 47tooth sprocket, I thought it would be cool to reach FR31 speeds again. So I figured: its time to do some R&D (Ride and Destroy!)
After counting the teeth, I relized its only a 42 tooth rear sprocket. Darn! However my not so better side of me decided to change out my 64 tooth for the 42 tooth rear sprocket.
I'm not a big fan of going 45+ mph on knobby tires so I changed the rear tire to a Kenda K-Rad 24x2.3 and ordered the matching front today (a Kenda K-Rad 26x2.3)
Hopefully the front will be here before the weekend so I can test the top speed and see if it can fly up Calaveras Rd @ 50.
Pictures to come after the front tires installed.
After counting the teeth, I relized its only a 42 tooth rear sprocket. Darn! However my not so better side of me decided to change out my 64 tooth for the 42 tooth rear sprocket.
I'm not a big fan of going 45+ mph on knobby tires so I changed the rear tire to a Kenda K-Rad 24x2.3 and ordered the matching front today (a Kenda K-Rad 26x2.3)
Hopefully the front will be here before the weekend so I can test the top speed and see if it can fly up Calaveras Rd @ 50.
Pictures to come after the front tires installed.
My morini is kicking azz with a 56 sprocket. You and Dean need a shrink to help with your need for speed. good luck
Hey GH, any pics of your bike? I'm dying to check it out. I take it the hub is holding up pretty good!I am digging the gears on mine
I have some bad news about my bike. My flywheel nut came loose and the woodruff key messed up the slot on my crank. I tried to hand align the slots 5xs but I couldn"t get it to rev up like it use too. It looks like I need to replace my crank. 
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Update:
I decided that it would be better to just buy a new 9.4 hp Morini instead. I figured that my time tearing apart and rebuilding the motor plus part would almost equal the cost of a new motor. Plus it gives me time to port my old 5.8 cylinder.
I can wait to see what it can do with a 42 tooth sprocket. I'm pretty sure its going to be a stock 50+mph MB.
I decided that it would be better to just buy a new 9.4 hp Morini instead. I figured that my time tearing apart and rebuilding the motor plus part would almost equal the cost of a new motor. Plus it gives me time to port my old 5.8 cylinder.
I can wait to see what it can do with a 42 tooth sprocket. I'm pretty sure its going to be a stock 50+mph MB.
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GH, Take off the flywheel cover and make sure the nut didn't come loose. I thought the same thing so I started checking everything and found the loose flywheel.
I only cleaned up the ports a little. I plan on doing a full race port on the cylinder and piston. I have a few old tricks I want to experiment that I've learned from Trevor Simpson and Howard Combee cylinders. The key is to not over port it. I also plan on throwing a stroker crank and a single ring piston in there. Who knows, maybe if there's a bigger cc cylinder...that too.
The only problem I have is "TIME". First step is to:
Clean my r/c stuff off my work bench and dedicate a certain area for this project because it won't be an overnight port job. I should have it done for the next Death race. Look out FR31...I'll be gunnin for your crown next year! lol
I only cleaned up the ports a little. I plan on doing a full race port on the cylinder and piston. I have a few old tricks I want to experiment that I've learned from Trevor Simpson and Howard Combee cylinders. The key is to not over port it. I also plan on throwing a stroker crank and a single ring piston in there. Who knows, maybe if there's a bigger cc cylinder...that too.
The only problem I have is "TIME". First step is to:
Clean my r/c stuff off my work bench and dedicate a certain area for this project because it won't be an overnight port job. I should have it done for the next Death race. Look out FR31...I'll be gunnin for your crown next year! lol
If its not the flywheel nut, check the nut with the teeth that is on the kick starter side. You can only fit a cresent wrench on it. That too came loose once. Easy remedy is to plug hole under the carb, lay the bike on its side, remove clutch cover, clean the nut off with brake cleaner and use red loctite and let dry overnight before starting it. You can assemble it after you've tighten the nut. Just don't let the oil splash around in the clutch area. Also, try not to get any cleaner inside the clutch or you'll have to change the oil.
The nut with the blue paint in the 2nd picture came loose on mine and started rubbing on the other bendix on the cover.
No GH, the keyway and woodruff key is on the flywheel side. The clutch side only has that threaded bendix nut.
I found that Herdan the morini dealer--the old guy is Hermie- i bought a carb and carberetor parts hes super helpful--he works some nights to 2 am and is over 70 !! he seems to know any question you throw at him too. I found the other guy quite terse --hes probably stressed out --overworked or other problems but he must have good days too. Dean uses Herdan too.
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I use Loctite Thread Locker Red 271 and been using it for years. However I still use the blue Looctite on occassion when I know I'm going to removing the nut. The thing about loctite is you need to let it dry to work and the way it dries is lack of air. You can leave a glob of Loctite on a plate for days and it will not dry.
As for my new motor, I'm going to run it stock out of the box. If it studders on the top, then I'll change the ignition and flywheel. Dean installed a new 19mm carb and a new 3 shoe clutch today and swears it made a huge difference. However he made a new manifold because the carb wasn't sitting flat to keep the bowl filled. We're going to do some testing next week and if the carbs the real deal...I'll let you know.
As for my new motor, I'm going to run it stock out of the box. If it studders on the top, then I'll change the ignition and flywheel. Dean installed a new 19mm carb and a new 3 shoe clutch today and swears it made a huge difference. However he made a new manifold because the carb wasn't sitting flat to keep the bowl filled. We're going to do some testing next week and if the carbs the real deal...I'll let you know.
I think its in the mid 13k range. We've had bad luck with the "so called" better ignition but I'm willing to try it out to see if I can get it to work. If not, I'll be slapping the old ignition off of my 5.8 motor.
The 5.8 and the 9.4 have the same stroke. It's the 11+ hp motor has the longer rod. You would have to add a spacer between the case and cylinder.
I forgot to mention that to remove the red loctite, you need to heat it up a little and it comes off easy.
I have never liked that play in the bell it never seemed right to me. Not only is it noisy when walking or just pedaling the bike it will make a god awful growling sound when backing off the throttle from full RPM.
It does not do it all the time but during the DR I thought something was gonna let go. I am defiantly gonna do something about it before something gives out and gives me more problems that I cant afford.
It does not do it all the time but during the DR I thought something was gonna let go. I am defiantly gonna do something about it before something gives out and gives me more problems that I cant afford.
Yeah FR31, Let us know if you find anything to tighten up the bell. I just got done cleaning my r/c stuff off of my work bench and will start taking the 5.8 off tomorrow. Then I'll start ripping apart the motor by next week and inspect the clutch more closely.