Morini S6S Clutch help

[f1gopedder]

hey goat i gotta question for you. I was reading another thread and they said to take the crankcase vent out before starting. like in this pic.

welll i noticed on my engine the previous owner jb welded this hole shut. Is that how its supposed to be or could that be a huge mistake he made? Im guessing the crankcase needs to breathe.

 

[Goat Herder]

That vent needs to be there. The wrong oil expands big time and turns to foam getting all over the bike. Oil approved for these clutches has anti foaming agents to them and don't make a mess. Somebody did not know what was going on... lol

When I pore in my Maxima MTL fluid I put the level flush to the top section of my fill plug.

 

[f1gopedder]

wow no way man im glad i caught that. Really pays off when you have an attention to detail like i do i guess. So should I drill the hole out or do I risk getting metal shavings in the crank case? What size drill bit should i use if its safe?

 

[f1gopedder]

alrighty goat i was able to take off the jb weld with a screwdriver and hammer and there was a little left in the hole so i had to punch it down into the crankcase so hopefully im not gonna be in the market for a new top end rebuild when i get it running. (crosses fingers). But i turned the motor over by hand a bunch of times, listening if i could hear any metal on metal or binding up in the motor and everything seems to be perfect, im sure that little tiny piece of jb weld will just get sucked right out the exhaust hopefully it doesnt score up the piston/cylinder on the way out. Wish me luck. haha at least my crankcase is venting now. Could that hole being jb welded have caused any damage in the past? And should it run better now that its unplugged?

thanks,
Mike

 

[dmb]

f1, that vent is for the clutch area only. not the crankcase. it's just a breather to relive pressure from all the clutch and gears splashing oil around. the s-5's dont have a breather so its not that big of a deal. you might want to take the cover off and find that piece or at least change the oil. a small piece of jb might act like a piece of steel but prob. not. dennis

 

[f1gopedder]

f1, that vent is for the clutch area only. not the crankcase. it's just a breather to relive pressure from all the clutch and gears splashing oil around. the s-5's dont have a breather so its not that big of a deal. you might want to take the cover off and find that piece or at least change the oil. a small piece of jb might act like a piece of steel but prob. not. dennis

sweet man sounds good. ill definetly look for it when i take my clutch apart tomorrow! now my clutch can breath haha

 

[f1gopedder]

dammm so i got it running perfect!! but... i messed up i guess i didnt let the red loctite dry enough and as i was coming back to my house i heard a bad noise and stopped. I noticed it was smoking so i just walked it home. Opened the clutch cover and the freakin clutch nut came loose and stripped the crankshaft. omg am i screwed now? It wont even go on and it has like 2 or 3 threads. Im guessing i could just somehow get it on and lock it up with some jb weld but... thats pretty ghetto. Do i need to buy a new crankshaft and nut? check out the pics.

 

[Goat Herder]

Dang sorry to hear that man.. Guess I should have said to let the lock tight set up for a few. Bottle will say something like 24 hours.. Got to get that nut pretty tight too. On my bike I was always impatient too. I will not use blue lock tight on my crank nut anymore. What happened to me once was that my nut came loose upon deceleration. It ruined my nut. I did not have a left hand die to chase the threads.

Ended up with a needle file set forever trying to dress up the crank shaft thread end.. My nut was garbage no sense of even attempting to to try to use it at all. I grabbed a new nut after cleaning things up and had to toss my flat washer to grab some more threads. The good news was that the kick start sprag still reached ok..

You can save it. Darn man and everything was going so good too.

 

[Goat Herder]

Weird thing in the beginning with this clutch I had always used blue lock tight with no incident.. Mebbe one day dunno? I did not get that nut on mine tight enough?


When I put my crank nut on now.. Have come up with my own voodoo lately from my cleaned up crank.. I tack up the lock tight so to speak... I will put red lock tight on then take the nut off put more put it on repeat. till it looks pretty through and uniform like by hand/fingers..

When I wanted to get that nut off doing it with the motor prewarmed a bit and has never been a battle..

When I was at my most impatient for waiting. I tried to get the lock tight to flash a tad sooner? Would start the bike up with no oil in the clutch and let the clutch get a little warm from briefly, gently power braking the clutch. Does not take very much time at all for that to happen! Then would let the clutch set for about 3 or four hours with no oil... Last put oil in and would ride the bike briefly to see if the clutch was right. Finally let that second heat soak sit for a couple more hours then road it like I stole it..

My currant crank is holding up beautifully despite what happened to it. So there is hope for you!

 

[dmb]

it looks like you got some room to save it. get a new nut and a thread file and try goats solution first. if that fails call motomx.com 239-566-9666 and see if they can help you. [cranks are $200] if you cant find a LHT dye. i'd buy 2 nuts and make a dye out of one. if that doesent work chase the LHT nut on and weld [tig] the nut on and hope for the best. that happened to me too. so dont feel too bad [theirs a long line for the dunce cap so get in line behind me!] good luck dennis

 

[f1gopedder]

it looks like you got some room to save it. get a new nut and a thread file and try goats solution first. if that fails call motomx.com 239-566-9666 and see if they can help you. [cranks are $200] if you cant find a LHT dye. i'd buy 2 nuts and make a dye out of one. if that doesent work chase the LHT nut on and weld [tig] the nut on and hope for the best. that happened to me too. so dont feel too bad [theirs a long line for the dunce cap so get in line behind me!] good luck dennis

**** man im so pissed. looks like i might have to do that and just tig it on there. It was running soooo good too. Just my luck i guess and impatience. Where would i tig it though? If i do it on the gear wont it interfier with the kick start gear? would i have to weld the nut to the clutch?

 

[Goat Herder]

Why even try to tig it yet? I think am convinced you can save it! Even if you have to shave a tiny bit off the end of the crank.. It will take patients.

 

[f1gopedder]

well ive been trying all day to get the nut on and unfortunately i was not able to save it. The threads are pretty much DONE for. I havent tried tiging it yet as i do not have a welder. But i will be happy to pay someone to weld it on for me if itll save it... I just wanna ride. Do you guys think if i part the whole engine out i can make back some money?

 

[Goat Herder]

Yeah I don't foresee you will ever get that old warped nut back on from my own experience without totaling everything?

 

[dmb]

goats right got the new nut's? you cant use a bent/crushed nut your wasting your time unless you ran a LHT tap through it. get a good dye grinder and grind the bent threads away and leave the good ones. as log as the threads have no bouggers missing threads are no big deal [like a keyway slot] if its too much for you find a shop. here in so cal we have a place called ''the hole shop'' they lazer cut broken studs ect. that ph # i gave you is in fl give them a call dont know what elts to say. maybe a good tig shop can stick in on for ya. and have fun till it breaks. sorry good luck dennis you tig on the inside of the nut to the crank only tig will weld hard steel to the nut

 

[Goat Herder]

I wanted to add this link. Perhaps it can help someone dunno? Man I hope f1 has some luck? I really feel for you buddy have been there before in mechanical stuff and can't help but wounder if for how I could have helped you more?

Just wanted to add to this thread that cleaning the mating surfaces for lock tight with brake clean or something similar is very important.. As the oil contamination will be counterproductive to good adhesion.. This chart shows which product is best for our 360 F clutch.. 263 is the red stuff.. http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf

 

[f1gopedder]

anyone know where i can purchase a new s6s or even just the crankshaft, hopefully inexpensive.

 

[dmb]

look on creigs list for a lem they came with a s-6 some are e's if your lucky your find a cheepie you might look at a dax ktm 50 too. look on the herdan site or that ph # i gave you any way it aint cheep. i'd keep trying to fix the threads. nothing from italy is inexpensive.

 

[weiserw]

Hello,

I recently went to change the clutch oil to belray gear saver and noticed I have a couple problems with my clutch. First of all the spring thats on the clutch cover that engages the kick starter snapped in half. Is there any way to replace that spring? Looks like its pretty hard to take off and replace. Also, my clutch bell is super wobbly. I guess I shouldnt have been using 80w-90 gear oil from advance auto in it the local moped shop told me it would be fine. Looks like they really screwed me over. Can you guys please show me links of what I need to buy and how to install if possible? Also, since ill probalby be replacing the clutch shoes also can you guys recomend me a clutch so that I dont have to always be going full throttle just to go? I want something I can cruise around town with. This is on a big boy morini v6 scooter btw.

Thanks,
Mike

HI

I am a newbie using KTMG50r Morini Chinese imitation.
What oil is best for the clutch and how much should I put in?

Thanks for your help

 

[Goat Herder]

HI

I am a newbie using KTMG50r Morini Chinese imitation.
What oil is best for the clutch and how much should I put in?

Thanks for your help

You prolly ought to read more of this thread