Maytag Flyer
- Thread starter Whozawhat
- Start date
dracothered
New Member
Then after a few hours of talking nice to the parts a useable exhaust system emerged.
A small muffler still needs be fabbed up to fit on the end of the pipe behind the bottom bracket
but I ran out of time........
Man you have a work of art going on there.
truckd
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking you'll probably never sell this bike judging by all the love and attention given to it, I think you, DD,Taylar motorbikes,Lurker and Sportmanflyer are truely master buidlers and inspire me to do the best I can, now don't get me wrong there are some other awsome innovators,fabricators that have and continue to build really Fantastic bikes out there but you guys are at top, I'm always very curious as to what you guys are going to do next and then I am astounded to see it when you all post.
Fantastic work!! Guys!
Fantastic work!! Guys!
killercanuck
New Member
Well said truckd!
Sweet pipe whoza! Can't wait to hear them puppies
Sweet pipe whoza! Can't wait to hear them puppies
Whozawhat
New Member
Thanks for the comments guys.
Truckd, you never can tell what is for sale, they say everything has a price, However I am not building this with the idea to sell it.
It is just an enjoyable project, one of a line of things to sooth my workaholic OCD behaviour.
I already have some other projects lined up after this one but they are not bicycle related.
Robin, I like Penticton, and if you have won a lottery, I am open to offers,,
Truckd, you never can tell what is for sale, they say everything has a price, However I am not building this with the idea to sell it.
It is just an enjoyable project, one of a line of things to sooth my workaholic OCD behaviour.
I already have some other projects lined up after this one but they are not bicycle related.
Robin, I like Penticton, and if you have won a lottery, I am open to offers,,
Kestrel Motors Inc.
New Member
That exhaust is AWESOME!!! This is one of my favorite builds right now.
Whozawhat
New Member
The Xmas rush has my limited free time is even more limited.
So this weeks progress was not too much.
During the week I made up a spacer and picked up some thrust needle bearings to go on the primary and secondary belt tension levers.
I can now tighten them down and still have them function smoothly.
No pictures of that stuff though.
Working on the induction system, the original air inlet tube only controlled the fuel/air mixture.
The engine was originally made for constant speed operation and had a fixed fuel jet and a governor in the crankshaft.
The new conversion is controlled by carburetor which is now fit into place. An air inlet is still to come.
Started making up a small muffler by cutting a shell, two side caps and an internal baffle plate.
Welded them together with a wire rod welded on the edge to give it a rolled edge look.
So this weeks progress was not too much.
During the week I made up a spacer and picked up some thrust needle bearings to go on the primary and secondary belt tension levers.
I can now tighten them down and still have them function smoothly.
No pictures of that stuff though.
Working on the induction system, the original air inlet tube only controlled the fuel/air mixture.
The engine was originally made for constant speed operation and had a fixed fuel jet and a governor in the crankshaft.
The new conversion is controlled by carburetor which is now fit into place. An air inlet is still to come.
Started making up a small muffler by cutting a shell, two side caps and an internal baffle plate.
Welded them together with a wire rod welded on the edge to give it a rolled edge look.
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Whozawhat
New Member
Fit the muffler to the exhaust pipe and fit in a small tail pipe.
Now while thinking about the question of the best amount of back pressure the mufller should have, I decided to make it adjustable by installing a cutout which could be operated closed for town riding and open for country riding.
Started out with the old air tube, this is what it looks like under the aluminum air control cap on the original air inlet tube.
Using some parts found in my junk box, some made pieces and the spring from inside the original air cap.
I assembled an operable exhaust cutout. The end cap would get cut off the air tube and welded to the bottom of the muffler in the area ahead of where the baffle plate is installed.
The bottom of the muffler was drilled open to allow the cutout valve to function as it should and the cutout assembly, lever and lever stops were welded on.
Now while thinking about the question of the best amount of back pressure the mufller should have, I decided to make it adjustable by installing a cutout which could be operated closed for town riding and open for country riding.
Started out with the old air tube, this is what it looks like under the aluminum air control cap on the original air inlet tube.
Using some parts found in my junk box, some made pieces and the spring from inside the original air cap.
I assembled an operable exhaust cutout. The end cap would get cut off the air tube and welded to the bottom of the muffler in the area ahead of where the baffle plate is installed.
The bottom of the muffler was drilled open to allow the cutout valve to function as it should and the cutout assembly, lever and lever stops were welded on.
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Whozawhat
New Member
A lever and stops limit the cutout travel in the open and closed positions. It can be operated with the toe of your riding boots.
The last thing done was to make a hammerform pattern and pound out the first piece of the primary drive cover.
It was then time to shut it down for the holidays.
The last thing done was to make a hammerform pattern and pound out the first piece of the primary drive cover.
It was then time to shut it down for the holidays.
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dracothered
New Member
A lever and stops limit the cutout travel in the open and closed positions. It can be operated with the toe of your riding boots.
The last thing done was to make a hammerform pattern and pound out the first piece of the primary drive cover.
It was then time to shut it down for the holidays.
Merry Christmas.
Hey I was trying to find some info on how to do hammer forming of metal with a hammerform pattern and can't find much. Maybe I'm not searching on the right thing, do you have any tip or point me in the right direction?
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Hammer forming, don't need an English wheel, just make a die out of wood and form around the wood piece? I suppose if thin enough sheet metal it works good.
I like the two purpose muffler. So on exiting the city, you switch to cherry bomb and wake up all the crows! The foot activated part I guess you'll not switch it bare foot. If a sneaker melts, you may put a coil spring to radiate the heat away for the foot activated switch.
This changing the kind of carburetor and the governor, you are really into it.
This is something to marvel at!
MT
Google search got "manual hammer forming of metal":
http://www.mechwerks.com/Hammerform.htm
I like the two purpose muffler. So on exiting the city, you switch to cherry bomb and wake up all the crows! The foot activated part I guess you'll not switch it bare foot. If a sneaker melts, you may put a coil spring to radiate the heat away for the foot activated switch.
This changing the kind of carburetor and the governor, you are really into it.
This is something to marvel at!
MT
Google search got "manual hammer forming of metal":
http://www.mechwerks.com/Hammerform.htm
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Whozawhat
New Member
dracothered;
try looking on metalshaping.org or just watch youtube videos on hammerforming, that is how I started.
Be sure to clamp a piece on top of the panel and run some screws through it to secure the panel, you can weld them closed later, work around slowly so as not to drag the panel to one side of the form. Don't use a metal hammer as it will stretch and mark the panel.
Measure Twice;
I used 18 ga. for the cover that I am working on, and routered a 3/4 inch radius on the wood blank. Some cutting and welding was required to obtain shrinkage where needed in the corners, the wood blank shows burn marks were the notches were tacked during forming.
English wheel and hammerforming each have a purpose, English wheel would be better for larger pieces, it would not make a tight 3/4 inch radius in a panel.
I never ride with bare feet and it only takes a split second to slide the control lever, also I made the end of the lever with the large hole to assist in cooling the same way as your spring idea So I don't think asbestos tipped sneakers will be required.
The carburetor is required to have control on the engine, prior to the conversion it would be set to operate at a constant governor controlled 1150 rpm, difficult to make a rideable MB with that setup.
Run with the big dogs or stay on the porch.
Merry Christmas
try looking on metalshaping.org or just watch youtube videos on hammerforming, that is how I started.
Be sure to clamp a piece on top of the panel and run some screws through it to secure the panel, you can weld them closed later, work around slowly so as not to drag the panel to one side of the form. Don't use a metal hammer as it will stretch and mark the panel.
Measure Twice;
I used 18 ga. for the cover that I am working on, and routered a 3/4 inch radius on the wood blank. Some cutting and welding was required to obtain shrinkage where needed in the corners, the wood blank shows burn marks were the notches were tacked during forming.
English wheel and hammerforming each have a purpose, English wheel would be better for larger pieces, it would not make a tight 3/4 inch radius in a panel.
I never ride with bare feet and it only takes a split second to slide the control lever, also I made the end of the lever with the large hole to assist in cooling the same way as your spring idea So I don't think asbestos tipped sneakers will be required.
The carburetor is required to have control on the engine, prior to the conversion it would be set to operate at a constant governor controlled 1150 rpm, difficult to make a rideable MB with that setup.
Run with the big dogs or stay on the porch.
Merry Christmas
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Whozawhat
New Member
Today the intake manifold tube between the carb and the crankcase got a copper cover to hide the rubber tube.
The carb and the intake tube will get weathered a bit to suit their age later in the project.
An air intake stack was fabricated out of an old POS (piece of something).
I know what it was, but bonus points to whoever can figure it out.
A support bracket welded to the frame should hold it tight.
The inlet had a small grate fabbed and fit. A cylinder of air filter foam treated with filter oil with be placed in the stack to catch any grit.
The carb and the intake tube will get weathered a bit to suit their age later in the project.
An air intake stack was fabricated out of an old POS (piece of something).
I know what it was, but bonus points to whoever can figure it out.
A support bracket welded to the frame should hold it tight.
The inlet had a small grate fabbed and fit. A cylinder of air filter foam treated with filter oil with be placed in the stack to catch any grit.
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Whozawhat
New Member
Then turned attention back to the primary cover.
The edges of the first piece were trimmed up square and a strip was tacked along the edge to deepen the cover.
After welding, grinding, trimming, mounting, edging and sanding, the basic primary cover is fit into place and all parts clear each other nicely.
The edges of the first piece were trimmed up square and a strip was tacked along the edge to deepen the cover.
After welding, grinding, trimming, mounting, edging and sanding, the basic primary cover is fit into place and all parts clear each other nicely.
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