Why are you stuck on the crank hitting the oil thing?
It wouldn't be hard for a skilled person to figure out how to maintain proper oil level , at the original distance from crank, where the counterweights DO NOT hit the oil, and devise a different dipper, then there shouldn't be any oil windage problem. I
If anything, the valvetrain may see slightly LESS oil in the upright positon, more out of the way of the oil splash from the dipper.
Do you disagree with this?
Wayne Z
Wayne Z, how many of these GX200 engines have you personally built?
If the answer is NONE you are speaking from ZERO experience and as to why I am " Stuck on the crank running in the oil thing NOT hitting the OIL is because that is exactly what it could likely be doing if this engine is tilted at a great angle.
As to
"maintaining Proper oil level at the original distance from the crank"
I have added a couple of picks I just took an few minutes ago of an spare new 6.5hp block I have and I put one of my spare cranks in it just to show how the distance of the counter weights changes in what would be the distance to the engine oil as the block is positioned in the vertical cylinder position, the short distance from the crank to the engine block would be where the oil would be, I have not said that I know for a fact this would cause a problem but there is the potential for one IMO with the change in the way it picks up and distributes the oil in the engine.
as to the valve train getting less oil.........not sure on that, but the point I'm trying to make here is that the crank counter weights plunging down into the oil and then hurling a large amount of it up toward the opening that the valve train gets it oil from
could and I said
could cause to much oil to be slung up into that part of the engine, this may not be an issue at all, I'm not sure on it but knowing again how sensitive these engine are to having proper oiling this concerns me a bit and because of that I will not be quit to tell someone that they can mount one of these engines at an angle that great and it will be OK, to me this is still unproven and I hope if it does work OK and someone does it successfully they will be sure and share it here so we will all know that we can mount these engines this way without concern.
As to whether or not I disagree with anything you said or not is not an issue here IMO, I'm not saying anything I have said is concrete and I;m not saying anything anyone else has said is concrete, until this is done and proven successful we are all shooting in the dark on our opinions to some degree, but myself having built these engines and worked out several issues on them at time know how important the oiling on them is, that is why I raised concern about the question asking if they could be mounted and made to look more like a vintage engine which would put it being mounted with the cylinder in a vertical position or very close to it.
I'm not wanting to offend anyone with what I have said here so please dont take me wrong...!
I have one of these engines built to produce around 14HP and it will push a fairly heavy home built frame I have at over 50 MPH I have about $600 just in the engine so I'm not gonna tilt mine up just to see if it will fry it or not, I do have another one that is stock but I'm not gonna do it either so whoever wants to risk there motor and let us know how it works I say go for it, but it aint gonna be me on this one.
I say save yourself the trouble and just use an old briggs flat head engine and build it up nice, there are still quite a few good parts out there to make them into pretty good engines and they are much easier to make look vintage than the Honda Clones.
Peace !!!!!!