Low Budget Cruiser Build

culvercityclassic

Well-Known Member
This is my new low budget build. The bike was given to me from my son who I had put this bike together for some time back. Who knows what the frame is but it is nice for this build. The odd thing is the wheels: 700c with really nice front hub and a 110 rear coaster brake. The frame will be repainted some crazy colors with the air brush; the fenders will also get the crazy paint.

66cc motor for this bike with a stock exhaust.

I have also made a behind the seat tank for this project (thanks silverbear for the idea).

Budget for this bike: 200.00

I will post more pictures as the build progresses.

CCC
 

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The up date on the Low Budget Build...so far it is moving along well. I have not had to dig into the wallet yet which is a good thing. I have painted the frame and installed a modified lowered springer front end. I also borrowed some larger tires from my kid...(borrow means keep in this family) 700x38 which look good.

I will try to install the motor tonight...

CCC
 

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If you raise the budget just a bit....say to $240, you could do one of your classic in frame tanks (in addition to the rear tank) and be able to ride to San Diego and back, without re-fueling. I'm only thinking about that space in the frame that you fill with beauty.....a small price to pay, but it is time and money which there is never enuf oflaff


You changed the bars....what kind are they, they're nice?
It looks great so far man....keep it coming!
 
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The “Low Budget Cruiser Build” is now completed and running. I am real happy with the way it turned out. I did not have to buy anything for this bike, it was all stuff that was accumulated from other projects or just not used like the donor bike I started with.

I rode the bike around last night and this bike pulls real good with that motor and gearing. The motor came from the very first build which got me hooked on MB’s. I did play with different options for a front end and ended up using this slightly lowered front Springer; the down fall is when this type of front end is lowered it throws the geometry off and feels a bit awkward while riding.

I now have 5 bikes that all run good…the hard part is deciding which bike to ride…

Picture # 3 is for KC

CCC
 

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That's a fine looking bike, and the details are brilliant!
I was considering an open clutch. Break out the hole saw....
 
I have added a rear fender to this bike...and removed the insert in the frame.

The holes in the clutch cover are just for looks, if you watch the clutch spin you will get dizzy...that thing does not spin tru at all...

Hey Scotto...who knows what the bars are off...sorry


took a week off from work for the holidays and all it's doing is raining in southern calif...wth... :(

CCC
 

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Some dry-clutch motorcycles have open clutches to ease maintenance, cool the plates, release dust from linings and just look kewl. It would be handy on a bike with a roller bracket cable thingamabob.
 
Wow, that really turned out nice hefe (Jeff), some real nice finishing touches there! Great work as always, keep it up.

Happy Holidays bro, we'll ride in the new year......Cheers!
 
Looks really cool!

Where did you get that engine mount?- looks like a good design!

I've been playing around with 700C on a build I'm just getting ready to finish-
I think you've found the optimum width with 38mm- not too wide, not too narrow-

How wide are your rims? are they Vee shaped? I have these narrow 3/4" road rims I'm not sure a tire this wide would fit. If the rims are an inch wide, I think 38 mm will fit and probably wider even.

I'm finding that actual width varies from tire to tire compared with what the tire is labled. I've found 700 C tires that actualy measure an inch wide when mounted labled as 25, 28, and even 32mm- when in actuality 25.4mm equals 1 inch.

So "caveat emptor" : Let the Buyer Beware!

Particularly ordering on the net. Usually 700 and 27" tires actually measure 1/8" more narrow on the rim than what they are labled- I was surprised that my 27 x 1 1/4" tires actually measure 1 1/8", and a 3/8" tire actually measures 1/4". On the other hand, 26" tires are usually the width they are labled. My 1.75 measure 1 3/4 exactly.

I don't know why. And 1/8" is about 3mm.
 
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CCC-
First, Merry Christmas!

You mentioned the lowered fork and how it affects handling. From the side view pic, it looks like you have negative trail, a very bad thing for bike handling. On your bike (based on the pics) the imaginary line that passes down thru the middle of your headtube intersects with the ground at a point behind your front tire contact patch. The analogy I always use to explain this is a shopping cart wheel. When you push a shopping cart, the tire contact patch is always behind the axis of rotation. Handling becomes unstable if you flip the wheels around.

You always want that point of intersection with the ground to be slightly ahead of the tire contact patch. I think most cruiser kinds of bikes will typically have around an inch or more of positive trail. The more positive trail, the more stable your bike will be at speed, but trail can also affect other handling characteristics so it's kind of a balancing act.

Hope this is helpful.
Ed
 
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