Lock tite on the fuel switch ?

MoreBloodWine

MoreBloodWine

New Member
Is the on/off switch for the fuel tank a place lock tite can be used ?

I guess what I should be asking is wether or not there's anywhere on the engine kit that lock tite cannot be used... so ya, where on the entire kit should I not use it ?

Edit: FWIW, where should it be used aside from what holds everything to the bike frame.
 
You use it for bolts/studs. So sure loctite is good it'll help keep vibrations from loosening your mounts. Use it smartly

Let it sit 30min - 20hours its your choice, longer it sits the better. After 30 mins I turn the screw in 1/4th or so more in and then let it sit for a few more hours. I've had 0 loctited things come loose. It's good stuff, works on wood too.
 
I use plumber's tape on petcocks since one occasionally needs to pull them to clean the filter. I use loctite on nothing anywhere, as what many folks think is fasteners coming loose is really the cheap hardware stretching (as needed I'll replace the 4.8 chinese stuff with 8.8 or 10.9). Where vibration might be a real problem, I double nut instead.
 
crassius said:
I use plumber's tape on petcocks since one occasionally needs to pull them to clean the filter. I use loctite on nothing anywhere, as what many folks think is fasteners coming loose is really the cheap hardware stretching (as needed I'll replace the 4.8 chinese stuff with 8.8 or 10.9). Where vibration might be a real problem, I double nut instead.
Click to expand...

I forgot to get the tape but I doubt I'll even need it, I did go hoppin today at Home Depot. Will post a pic or two later of what I got but what I got should give me everything I need to get the bike done !!!
 
Ok, well here's a pic of everything I got at the local Home Depot today to hopefully be able to finish the bike. One thing I opted in on that I probably didnt need wa sa longer fuel line. Only thing is that it has a smaller inner diameter than that of the stock line but not by much. As for the fuel filter, I think it runs the way I have the arror in the pic if I'm not mistaken. One thing I'm not sure on is the non ynthetic but the guy at Advance Auto said it is non synthetic since synthetic bottle have to for legal reason state that it's synthetic. But ya, if any of you have experience with the oil in the pic I'd like confirmation on it bein non synthetic since I was told I could return it as long as the film is intact.

IMG_0546.PNG


Edit: I don't recall which one of my posts it was in but why should I break in with a 20:1 ratio instead of what I gue the book says should be 16:1 ?
 
Last edited:
Across the great pond in the land of China, plain old automotive engine oil is the most commonly found 2-stroke pre-mix oil.
It does such a horrible job of lubricating a 2-stroke engine that you need to mix it at 16:1 to keep from damaging the engine.
Nearly everywhere else in the world proper 2-stroke pre-mix oil is easily found and used.
Referring to non synthetic pre-mix oil, 20:1 is a very good ration to use for break in. Some folks will even thin it out to 24:1.
After break in you should switch over to 32:1.
 
32:1 is what I planned on after break in while using 20:1 during break in of 2 gallons. As for the china comment, you ayin I got bad oil ?

Both types are pictured...
 
Take the Loctite back to the store and get your money back. It's not needed on a motorized bicycle. Don't use it on engine or engine mount fasteners. There is absolutely no reason for it unless you don't understand proper fastener torquing procedures.

If you insist on using thread locking compounds use it for chain guards and fenders but DO NOT put it on head bolts, side cover screws or mounting fasteners. You'll be sorry you did one day when disassembly becomes necessary. Especially the red stuff.

Tom
 
What I got is the Blue that's labeled as bein able to come apart. Most of what I was gonna use it on is the engine mounts that hole it to the bike and the gas tank mounts. I wasn't thinking of using it on too many places other than the bike mount parts.
 
one thing I forgot to mention on the petcock, don't over-tighten it to get the lever pointed the right way as it may break off in the tank, just sand down the red washer a bit till it points where you want it
 
MoreBloodWine said:
32:1 is what I planned on after break in while using 20:1 during break in of 2 gallons. As for the china comment, you ayin I got bad oil ?

Both types are pictured...
Click to expand...


I was not going there. You bought good oil. Sorry for the confusion.

The folks in China are known for using automotive crankcase oil as a 2 stroke oil. They use the most inexpensive product they can afford. While it will work, it is not recommended when a job specific designed 2 stroke pre-mix oil is available.
Automotive oil creates a whole heck of alot of carbon buildup on every part involved during the combustion process. The piston, cylinder head and exhaust system get coked up with carbon quickly and need near constant cleaning to keep the engine running.

On the other hand...
Proper 2-stroke oil is formulated to be relatively self cleaning and provides much better lubrication as well.
Some 2-stroke synthetics do not coke up at all and you never need to worry about de-carbonizing the engine or exhaust. (Opti II, Amsoil Saber, ect.)
 
Sounds good, as for the comment on the petcock... what red ring becaue I dont recall seeing one.

Alo, I went out and got some teflon tape for the petcock today... the yellow kind mae for gas lines ;-)

On a similar note, gas that is... Given the shape of the frame and the placement of the gas tank there seems to be a line issue that could go BOOM !

Note the below pictures... should I be concerned about this because there's not really any other option available to me.

IMG_0547.PNG


IMG_0548.PNG
 
Last edited:
The kit should have come with a red colored gasket that is fitted in between the petcock and the petcock bung on the fuel tank.
Mine located the petcock in a horrible position, lever facing inwards, so I made my own gasket for it out of a thinner piece of scrap gasket material I had laying around. I sealed the threads with Hylomar as well. It has loosened up on me and rotated around but the Hylomar still kept it leak free. (I love that stuff! )

The fuel line should not touch the cylinder head, It can come close to it though.
If you are worried about how close the spark plug is to the petcock, there is no problem with what I am seeing here.
 
arrow on fuel filter is backwards,the clear filter enables you to see the buildup of sediment.impossible to see if fuel flows to inside of filter first.
once you take it out of the package,you might find an arrow embossed into the clear housing.
blue loctite is intended for fasteners 6mm and larger.
using green lock and wick is a product you place on the threads after assembly,a drop of heat is all it takes to remove fastener if need be.

i found my red washer long after i made a seal for my gas valve.its intended to bottom out on the gasket for sealing.
first chance i get,im rethreading the tank to 1/8 npt and putting in a hose barb and an inline valve.
 
GearNut said:
The fuel line should not touch the cylinder head, It can come close to it though.
If you are worried about how close the spark plug is to the petcock, there is no problem with what I am seeing here.
Click to expand...

I'm not really concerned with the plug, just the fuel line but I plan on zipping it to "tie" it up. I was just concerned since even with it tied up it stilll seems close to the head as seen in the previously posted images.
 
You can use blue loctite on the engine mounts.
Some folks swear by it, some folks swear at it.
FWIW, I swear by it. When performing maintenance at a later date, I have never had any problems removing any of the loctited fasteners either. Also, I don't use the cheap factory Phillips screws for the side covers.
 
GearNut said:
You can use blue loctite on the engine mounts.
Some folks swear by it, some folks swear at it.
FWIW, I swear by it. When performing maintenance at a later date, I have never had any problems removing any of the loctited fasteners either. Also, I don't use the cheap factory Phillips screws for the side covers.
Click to expand...

Good to know... either way I figured it was worth a shot at I think only four bucks.

Sent from my PANTECH Crossover ™ on AT&T via Forum Runner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top