Loc-Tite or lock nuts - which is better?

geeksquid

geeksquid

New Member
Since no nut or bolt from China is safe from vibrating loose, I know I'll have to do something. Replacing every nut with a lock nut would be a real pain but I guess would be worth the trouble. Loc-tite would probably be easier but haven't used it before. I'm assuming a nut with Loc-tite can still be removed and re-used with no problem?
And while I'm here, what's the best way to seal my gas tank petcock from leaks? In the past, I used teflon tape but it still leaked like a sieve. Is there a sure fire way to seal it from leaks from the git go and forget it? I recall that the last kit I got, the threads of the petcock and tank didn't match at all and I had to force it when screwing it in. I'd like to avoid these problems this time around.
 
a locknut with locktite :)

despite any efforts to hold on your exhaust muffler bolts, double nutting them works best. install the first ones nice and tight install the other ones and while holding the first ones still with a wrench you tighten the second ones aginst them snug this locks them in place and i can assure you they wont move. you can double nut on anything, there is no crime...... unless your trying to bolt a horse. there are laws against such a thing.

anyway, teflon locknuts are best to use, since you never used any locktite before you are going to be looking for the blue stuff since it breaks loose with a wrench (the red type requires heat to loosen off, and green, is for bearings and bushings :) )

as for the petcock, since its somthing that might as well be screwed in permantly i dont see why ou couldnt use a little seal-all on the threads as you screw it in.

hopefully that gets you started : )

you might want to go get youself a few inches of better fuel line too, that rubbery crap they call fuel line will harden up and start to leak within a month.
 
There are also lock washers! I use a lock washer then double nuts and it seems to hold well.
 
You didn't say which nuts you're having problems keeping tight but it really makes no difference. There is no rule that says you have to use studs and nuts. You can replace them with bolts. The intake and exhaust manifolds will require a 6mm X 20mm. I suggest Allen head capscrews instead of hex heads because of the limited space available. Lock washers are needed too. The engine mounts can also benefit from using the Allen heads. The front mount, if you have a standard size down tube, will take a 6mm X 20mm, the rear, 6mm X 50 or 55mm. Do not use the red Loctite. You'll never get things apart without heating, especially the aluminum parts, without thread damage. I'm not a big fan of LocTite on these bikes but if you use it do what Humsuckler says and use the blue lable type.
As for the petcock leak; teflon tape is not a sealer. It is a thread lubricant made for pipe threads. Pipe threads are tapered and the tighter they are the better they seal. Teflon tape only allows you to tighten the fittings more than a dry thread. The same is true for most pipe dopes. They are not meant to stop leaks unless tightening them will seal the leak. The Chinese kit supplied tanks and petcocks are not pipe threads. They are a machine thread that rely on a gasket between the two parts to seal. If the gasket is there but leaking you can replace it or try sealing it with a gasket sealer such as Permatex. There are some sealers made for this purpose but you need to look for one compatible with gasoline. Some sealants are made for water and steam and gas will eat them up. If you're missing that gasket, it's usually red, about 1/2" diameter, you'll need to find one.
Tom
 
ooops. forgot about the gasket thanks dude.

you would be surprised at how well boxboard soaked in oil will work as a gasket ;)
 
Man, I haven't been having any problems with nuts backing out at all. My kit shipped with lock washers for everything except the clutch/magneto/sprocket covers. I check everything and nothing seems to be even remotely loose. I replaced the mounting studs with higher-quality bolts and used red Loctite, but only as a peventative measure. Am I just getting lucky?

PS: I'm Canadian and I've always called it "cardboard" =p
 
I always keep the threads dry and clean from oily residue, and never get loose bolts/nuts. probably because theres no lubricant to cause the nuts to loosen
 
I often do all three on intake, exhaust, and engine mounts. I never have to worry about these parts which frequently loosen to do so.
1. locknut
2. lockwasher
3. loctite
 
There are some places where I have loctite, a nyloc nut and they are double nutted....some may call me double nuts- but since my first ride, nothing has ever losened up.

On that first ride, the large central bolt on my springer fell out. Now it is loctited, lock washer and double nutted.
 
2door said:
You didn't say which nuts you're having problems keeping tight but it really makes no difference. There is no rule that says you have to use studs and nuts. You can replace them with bolts. The intake and exhaust manifolds will require a 6mm X 20mm. I suggest Allen head capscrews instead of hex heads because of the limited space available. Lock washers are needed too. The engine mounts can also benefit from using the Allen heads. The front mount, if you have a standard size down tube, will take a 6mm X 20mm, the rear, 6mm X 50 or 55mm. Do not use the red Loctite. You'll never get things apart without heating, especially the aluminum parts, without thread damage. I'm not a big fan of LocTite on these bikes but if you use it do what Humsuckler says and use the blue lable type.
As for the petcock leak; teflon tape is not a sealer. It is a thread lubricant made for pipe threads. Pipe threads are tapered and the tighter they are the better they seal. Teflon tape only allows you to tighten the fittings more than a dry thread. The same is true for most pipe dopes. They are not meant to stop leaks unless tightening them will seal the leak. The Chinese kit supplied tanks and petcocks are not pipe threads. They are a machine thread that rely on a gasket between the two parts to seal. If the gasket is there but leaking you can replace it or try sealing it with a gasket sealer such as Permatex. There are some sealers made for this purpose but you need to look for one compatible with gasoline. Some sealants are made for water and steam and gas will eat them up. If you're missing that gasket, it's usually red, about 1/2" diameter, you'll need to find one.
Tom
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I'm not having any trouble. Just taking preventative measures since I know all the nuts will vibrate loose on these chinese wonders. Right now I'm stuck in motor mount **** since my Schwinn Point Beach has oversized tubes. Too bad the chinese don't just make and include a set of universal mounts for large tubes since just about any of the new bikes are well over the one inch the motors are made for. I'm trying to avoid drilling into the aluminum frame.
 
2door said:
You didn't say which nuts you're having problems keeping tight but it really makes no difference. There is no rule that says you have to use studs and nuts. You can replace them with bolts. The intake and exhaust manifolds will require a 6mm X 20mm. I suggest Allen head capscrews instead of hex heads because of the limited space available. Lock washers are needed too. The engine mounts can also benefit from using the Allen heads. The front mount, if you have a standard size down tube, will take a 6mm X 20mm, the rear, 6mm X 50 or 55mm. Do not use the red Loctite. You'll never get things apart without heating, especially the aluminum parts, without thread damage. I'm not a big fan of LocTite on these bikes but if you use it do what Humsuckler says and use the blue lable type.
As for the petcock leak; teflon tape is not a sealer. It is a thread lubricant made for pipe threads. Pipe threads are tapered and the tighter they are the better they seal. Teflon tape only allows you to tighten the fittings more than a dry thread. The same is true for most pipe dopes. They are not meant to stop leaks unless tightening them will seal the leak. The Chinese kit supplied tanks and petcocks are not pipe threads. They are a machine thread that rely on a gasket between the two parts to seal. If the gasket is there but leaking you can replace it or try sealing it with a gasket sealer such as Permatex. There are some sealers made for this purpose but you need to look for one compatible with gasoline. Some sealants are made for water and steam and gas will eat them up. If you're missing that gasket, it's usually red, about 1/2" diameter, you'll need to find one.
Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I pretty much figured the teflon tape was a waste of time. I doubt there is anything you could put on threads to stop gas from leaking. I just checked and the petcock did come with the washer shaped gasket, so I'll be sure to use it. I'll be sure to test it with a little bit of gas before I fill the tank so I don't waste a tank of gas.
 
geeksquid said:
I'm not having any trouble. Just taking preventative measures since I know all the nuts will vibrate loose on these chinese wonders. Right now I'm stuck in motor mount **** since my Schwinn Point Beach has oversized tubes. Too bad the chinese don't just make and include a set of universal mounts for large tubes since just about any of the new bikes are well over the one inch the motors are made for. I'm trying to avoid drilling into the aluminum frame.
Click to expand...

Wow, the word "h-e-l-l" is banned here. You don't get much more anal than that.
 
Finfan said:
There are also lock washers! I use a lock washer then double nuts and it seems to hold well.
Click to expand...
Yes, I'm sure double nuts work well. There's really no way they would NOT work. I had lock washers on my Honda Rebel's chain adjusters and they worked loose and I lost the nuts.
 
I use lok-tite on the studs and everything that screws into the motor. Then ny-lock nuts on everything that has a nut except the exhaust studs. Those I use a grade 8 lockwasher on. I have ny-locks on my head bolts too. They are holding up well to the heat.
 
clean the threads and lock washers thouroughly with solvent before tightening and theyll never vibrate loose again.. works for me .bld..wee.
 
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I use the stock nuts & bolts with the stock lock washers for everything!
I toss the flat washers & only use the lock washers everywhere.
I use red loctite on the engine mounts & exaust only...
I don't over tighten anything & I NEVER have any probems with the bolts coming loose!!!
After a few weeks of riding a new bike, I will "re-snug" all the bolts... after that, they're good for a very long time!

The trick is really to toss the flat washers & not over torque...
 
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