"kindalikeawhizzer"

Hey Dan,
A motorbike ride would be a real good way to celebrate the solstice. I did a pipe ceremony this morning to observe the occasion and thought of you. Wish I could go for a bike ride. The wonder dog would like to go, too. Around 30 here, but overcast with some new snow. Mild winter so far. Hey to Jackie & Willie. Moosh says hi & I'm waggin' me tail.
SB
 
Do you weld SB? Also what engine is that and are you planning on that TAV I seen in the pictures?.. Personally I wouldn't use the antenna clamp...they're kinda flimsy but we shall see☺
 
No, I don't really weld. I have a little, but would not want to trust welds on a bike frame... at least not without a good bit of practice beforehand. It may be that in the summer when fasteddy arrives on the scene at summer camp he can weld mounting plates and do it right. In the meantime I'm going to go this route which will allow me to get things aligned and functional. The engine is a Tecumseh H5 which is 200CC and 5 hp. Yes, I plan to use that transmission.
SB
 
SB

Will the flywheel pan interfere with the function of the magnets, or is the pan shallow enough.
Curious minds need to know. lol
Plan on using 1/8" aluminum disk same OD as my flywheel and notch it for a basic rope starter.
My flywheel has a row of outer holes that held plastic fan. My starter rope will bottom on those bolts with spacing for chainsaw starter rope.

Ron
 
CB2,
That Mustang has a good looking engine! I polished up the copper bottom of the pan last evening and it looks terrific. Now I have to find dead center in order to drill a hole. Think I'll wait until the fins are cut down first. Then I can use the flywheel to find the center of the pan.

Ron,
I don't know. Now I have something else to worry about, eh? Snowing today or I would be out cutting off fins from the flywheel. The pan is not as deep as the flywheel. Will that make it okay? Always something, eh? I don't know enough to have even thought about the magnets. I guess if it starts and runs okay without the pan attached, but doesn't with the pan in place then I can pretty well figure what's wrong, right? Is that right, or am I wrong? More than a little confused...
SB
 
WO! you can't cover the magnets they have to have that certin clearance 19 thow. i think ( match book cover thickness ) Maybe trim it down so you just have the copper bottom. Love what you are doing.............Curt
 
A couple of pictures below. The copper sure cleaned up nicely on the bottom of the pan and looks better than I imagined it would. Initial cleanup was with super fine steel wool and then followed with Wizard metal polish which really brought out the luster. Not that I have any intention of maintaining that shine on any of the copper, but I will for it's debut at the motorbicycle coming out party after it is all dressed up in new paint. After that all the copper bits and pieces can start darkening up together for some of that highly rated vintage patina.

Nobody but me will probably ever notice the little flywheel nut having a copper 1907 Indian head one cent piece soldered to the nut. Might be an image of Tecumseh himself, eh? I'll know it is there each time I start the engine with the hand crank and that's what matters most. I haven't done the soldering yet and hope it goes according to plan.

You guys have me worried a bit about the magnets and the flywheel cover. I admit that I don't really understand. I do know (I think) that the flywheel revolving around the magneto creates a current which ends up with a pulse of electricity at the tip of the spark plug which sets off a little explosion of volatile gases in the cylinder which makes the crank shaft keep going around and around. I don't understand how the proposed flywheel cover would interfere with that since the flywheel is a conductor and so is the pan and they will revolve together as one unit. How does the one on the Mustang engine work? How is what I propose different? What I don't know would fill a lot of blank pages. How can I make this work?
SB
 

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CB2,
I'm hoping that the photos answer your question. The underside of the flywheel itself has what appears to me to be the magnet, as there are a lot of metal filings from the fin grinding which have found a home there.

It looks to me like everything else (including the coil, I'm guessing) is located underneath the flywheel when it is in place.

So, you tell me... do I have a problem? If so, what do I do about it? As always, thanks so much for your input.
SB
 

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I hope the flywheel cover/magnetism issue works out for you. But I'm not knowledgeable enough to offer anything useful. My gut feeling is that the cover won't make much, if any, difference.

So your copper exhaust fell apart when it warmed up enough to melt the solder? That sounds exactly like the kind of error that I'd make. And then I'd feel kinda sheepish; "How could I have missed that?"
 
Sorry i was thinking about Briggs that have the coil on the outside. Yours is on the inside and will work fine with the fry pan cover.AWESOME infact it will be............Curt
 
Excellent! Glad to know the cover will "pan" out, Ha! Today looks like a good one for some fin work. Mildish temperatures and a few snowflakes wandering to earth... might get it down enough for a mock up.
SB
 
Yep you are in the clear on the flywheel pan. That engine is a older point model, might want to check the points as to condition and setting before you button it up. Also its very important if you should ever remove the coil/armature to carefully scribe around the mounting bolts and reinstall as it was. The timing is set by the armatures position.
 
Before setting the points, I'll need to learn more about what the gap should be. The engine did run as it was on a snow blower I used to use. When the carburetor gave me trouble I removed the engine and replaced it with a 212CC Predator and gave the snow blower to my son. The points are probably okay as they are. Or do you think I should go over them to clean them up a bit?
SB
 
You know, Silverbear........thinking more about the exhaust that fell apart when the solder melted..........

Do you suppose one could do the same thing using some kind of heat resistant adhesive rather than solder? Maybe J-B Weld?

That could open up a lot of DIY exhaust possibilities.
 
I more or less finished grinding down the flywheel fins. I think it would be a good idea to check the flywheel for balance before running the engine, but otherwise it is good enough for the flywheel cover to fit in place, reduce the overall width of the engine and protect my leg from unplanned surgery. Next up is to get the copper pan centered and drilled to fit onto the crankshaft.
SB
 

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And the deed is done. I couldn't be more pleased. I have a brass flat washer in place which hides the Reverewear labeling. I'll pick up a couple of flat copper washers to serve as spacers so that the flywheel nut will still be able to snug things tight once it has the Indian head one cent piece soldered to the nut. I don't know what I could have found to act as a flywheel cover that would have worked out as well as this frying pan. Woohoo!
SB
 

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Bluegoat,
I don't know how much heat JBWeld would tolerate. The few unions I'll have will be held together with brass bolts. Those will hold for sure. It would be interesting to know if some kind of adhesive would work, though.

Thinking outside of the box is a simple thing when you don't know what is supposed to be inside the box, right? There are advantages in not knowing too much I think.
SB
 
Points are usually set at 20 thousends and all you have to do to clean then is fine wet-dry sand paper,double it and run it back and forth with the points closed then rest the cap.

If you are worried about the balance just wait till you get it running then hit it with the grinder, but don't think you have to worry...............Curt
 
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