kill switch not working on new Skyhawk installation

R

rijopiatt

New Member
I've followed the directions:

Connected black CDI wire to black engine wire.

Connected blue CDI wire to blue engine wire.

Snipped-off engine white wire "not needed unless running a headlight, not recommended as it robs engine ignition power requirements"

Connected the two kill switch wires to the remaining two holes of the CDI terminals. "Color code not important".

Any help appreciated.

Rick in Indiana
 
My kill switch died on the second day after the install, so until I get a replacement switch I just kill the engine by stalling it, dumping the clutch at a stop. Apparently the stock kill switches are very delicate.

You can check the switch with an ohm meter, if you have one. SBP sells a replacement rocker style kill switch that looks pretty nice.
 
If you're careful and are good with small electrical things most kill switches can be repaired. It is a very simple device with only one moving part. There is a small spring and a sliding contact and two stationary brass contacts. It's been my experience that if a switch will not kill the engine, and it's wired correctly, that the problem is the spring is not pushing the two contacts together due to plastic flashing keeping the moving parts from moving. There is only one small screw holding the switch into the throttle housing then two plastic 'ears' that hold the switch together. It can be disassembled easily. You'll see when you get it apart how it works and what it needs to be repaired. I've successfully repaired several.
Good luck.

Tom
 
On one of my builds the problem was not in the switch but the wires, as was said above ohm each wire. I found one wire broke inside the insulation about four inches from the end, I had enough wire left to make the connections.
 
I concur. An ohm meter is an essential tool when diagnosing electrical problems.
Tom
 
Hmmm, seems like my reply didn't go thru several days ago. Anyway, thanks for all the responses.

I found that the brass contact nubs do not touch the wire contacts. The nubs are flush with or slightly recessed relative to the surrounding plastic "walls". When I touch a jump wire to the ends of the two wires, the engine will shut off.

I'm not sure how to "shave" the plastic down without damaging the nubs. I see there are square holes in the plastic that go all the way thru the button. Maybe I can take something really small and push contact's prongs, forcing the nubs up? Then, fill the hole with expoxy or superglue.

I did buy a kill switch at a motorcycle shop, but I found that one of the wires is to ground on the handlebars, consequently the motor won't start. Are they all this way?

Rick
 
Rick,
The problem is usually that the spring you see under the sliding contacts is not pushing up on them enough. That's where you need to trim so the contacts will move in and out. I also lubricate the mechanism with a silicone based grease.
Tom
 
rijopiatt said:
I did buy a kill switch at a motorcycle shop, but I found that one of the wires is to ground on the handlebars, consequently the motor won't start. Are they all this way?
Rick
Click to expand...

No they are NOT all that way. Add a additional length of wire and run both to the CDI connections. The new one could be defective the way you are describing it.
 
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