It Ain't the Spark Plug !

do you have any garbage in the tank? what kind of wire and plug do you use? do you have lights attached to your motor?
 
I dont use the silicone sealant, I use an oring inside the throat of the carb where when installed it seals the inside of the carb to the end of the intake manifold.

I sent you a PM with a link as to what I am talking about, any questions let me know..........
 
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misteright1_99 said:
NGK B6HS Burns clean and lasts.....
Click to expand...

I'm using the same plug, not really sure what the gap is that it came as, and what it should be set to ? So, I am guess ing it doesn't come already gapped for my 80cc Chinese ?

I am now down to the plug, the wire, or did something go wrong with the gas mixture, while just sitting there, other than the fact the weather has changed a little and I am at sea level, I am running with the stock carb accelerator setting, that I have not changed, but am willing to.

I am still getting loss of power not so much bogging down, but the power isn't where it was. It is like it is missing, or not firing exactly right, this occurs only when in motion and accelerating. Kind of a rough ride like you are riding the RR ties, but not actually that drastic.

Can you give me a gap spec. I should be using ?

The last tank which was I believe my fourth gallon was 30-1 per Kings,

I used Valvoline 2 Cy. Multi-purpose.
 
I would try different gaps start at .018 or .020, I found my bike runs best at .030 30:1 sounds good I run 32:1 also check to make sure the plug wire is screwed in tight to the CDI and the plug cap, and inside where it goes onto the plug there is a screwdriver slot, make sure that is tight...
 
I guess I will have to root around for a gaping tool or feeler gauge, but in either case, I stuck the old one back in there.
With all your advice you have me in a generous mood and I hope that I can return the favors to this forum, and I will, but for now I have gone over the material and found your advice very good and also useful, . . . but I have not yet solved the problem, and am beginning to think along the lines of possibly something significant, head gasket or maybe even worse !

I am getting the Pap< pap, Pap sound and am thinking that it may not be coming out of the end of the muffler, it sounds like it is in the head, cylinder.

I hate to say this but it even sounds like a knock, so whats in there that would make an unmistakable harsh pap or knock and make the bike ride like its going down the RR on the ties ? :bike2:

This is beginning to sound like a job for Norman !
 
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Same symptoms I had on a old honda motorcycle. Turned out to be a mostly plugged exhaust. I bet that is what you are fighting. Idled great, no power and jerky when you gave it the gas:D
 
OK, I've got the Kings Chengine Users manual in front of me, and looking at the trouble shooting guide I see the following;

Regarding spark plug;
1. Wash spark plug and keep the clearance about 5mm. ????

2. High Tension line destroyed Change it and get rid of the short circuit.

Regarding Insuffient;

Oil Leak in Crank case, . . . Whats that all about ???

Igniting time improper Adjust igniting time, whats this all about ????

Anybody !! :ride2:
 
I had a problem that sounded like yours, it was the plug wire. Run good at low speed and bog and jerk when I would give it more gas. also my choke was so lose it bounced shut at times. Don;t know if that is any help but good luck.
 
Wheel Rush said:
OK, I've got the Kings Chengine Users manual in front of me, and looking at the trouble shooting guide I see the following;

Regarding spark plug;
1. Wash spark plug and keep the clearance about 5mm. ????

2. High Tension line destroyed Change it and get rid of the short circuit.

Regarding Insuffient;

Oil Leak in Crank case, . . . Whats that all about ???

Igniting time improper Adjust igniting time, whats this all about ????

Anybody !! :ride2:
Click to expand...


You can start by completely disregarding whatever rubbish you are reading that states anything like you have quoted.
 
5 mm? That's like a foot in metric!!rotfl


START with a NEW plug. Gap that dog 0.020-0.025 and go from there.

At this point I also suggest things such as:

Drain the tank and remove that absolutely stupid in tank screen.
Make a FRESH batch of premix (go BUY FRESH low octane fuel from a busy station). Get a good oil and mix it 30:1.

Remove the cylinder head, wipe down the sleeve and head, replace head gasket and retorque.

Check the needle taper.

Get a new plug wire.

Replace the intake gasket.

etc

P~
 
Sisssonscot,

I've ripped 6cyl, Chevys' apart and stuck'em back together, but this is actually my first bike engine, So I'm,
I've never had that problem,. . . what did you do about it ?
 
If you take off the muffler, to see if it is fouled, and start it up and forget that the idler screw is all the way in from the trial runs previous, make sure you have a kill switch !!

The Strieking Banchee turns itself into a Murder-Cycle !
 
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Oh, . . . sorry about that yeah, the muffler, 3-4 mo. in use was the problem., previous thread prior to yours, it was fouled up some how I'm getting another!

Here is a copy of the previous answer;

If you take off the muffler, to see if it is fouled, and start it up and forget that the idler screw is all the way in from the trial runs previous, make sure you have a kill switch !!

The Strieking Banchee turns itself into a Murder-Cycle !
 
having a similar issue.
was there an obvious blockage in the muffler? could you blow through it with little effort? my muffler has lots of oil and crap in it as well but i can easily blow through it. its a little too late for me to remove the muffler and start her up i will have to try that tomorrow.
 
Misterright, can you provide me with this link too, I would like to know what size oring will fit the intake. Thanks Mac
 
Jerseykat1

Nope! It was clogged to the point you could not blow air through it, but I would very much suspect that the compression could push it's way through.
 
:-{Spark can fail under load I had CDI that drove me crazy for a day. If the CDI is trying to quit it will fail under load. Hope this helps
 
In a cylinder when the atmospheric pressure is raised [compresion] misspelled ,the electricity wants its easiest path to ground it always will, its not a smooth path to the other side of that plug if spark is breaking down. Thats why electro is suspost to be insulated maby CDI internales just lost her insulation. Atmospheric pressure raises resistance to the electro, pressure does change the way electro wants to act, the resistance. Hince forth the load.
 
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Oh one last thing for rethinking what my prob was ,and for I saw my CDI was warm When I had a fit to swap it. I was sittin on a spare kit at the time
 
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