I just received my Dax bottom end and the left flywheel looks like it was dragged across the pavement. The edge next to the con rod has maybe 20% that looks normal. Does anyone have any experience with theses bottoms. Ive tried to post pics but it says limited memory. Advice on that would be great too.
Yep, that's normal Chinese quality control. Other that being an eyesore it will not hurt anything. At least it will be hidden inside the cases.
Remember, cheap Chinese quality control is nowhere near the quality control of the Japanese engine manufacturers.
Remember, cheap Chinese quality control is nowhere near the quality control of the Japanese engine manufacturers.
If it is one of DAX's balanced bottom ends, the weight difference had been accounted for during the balancing process.
There is no balancing process.
All the cranks just have the 2 holes on each side of the crank pin drilled through the crank circles which removes a little more steel.
This style of crank is nothing new as motors I got from Zoom in Canada years ago had the same holes with the only difference being the connecting rod was wider so there were no spacing washers on each side of the connecting rod.
I know this for a fact because I get bottom ends, top ends and kit parts from the same factory in China.
yea and his motors are made in America Ha! never bought from him and never
will anybody that makes claims like his, is trolling for newbs.
That's why I bought a GenV.
No advertising misrepresentation.
I'd send it back myself.
Not acceptable in a brand new "upgrade" engine.
No advertising misrepresentation.
I'd send it back myself.
Not acceptable in a brand new "upgrade" engine.
They don't balance engines in China. They bolt them up from parts.
Parts is parts. Sometimes they fit better than other times. Sometimes they don't.
Sometimes the rings just snap in half. You have seen the factory, it's 10 people standing around a bench slappin' 'em together. Anybody see anyone micing journals?
Parts is parts. Sometimes they fit better than other times. Sometimes they don't.
Sometimes the rings just snap in half. You have seen the factory, it's 10 people standing around a bench slappin' 'em together. Anybody see anyone micing journals?
IO got DAX 4th Gen. F-80 lower end and both the studs were snapped off... well one was off completely and the second wasn't broken but as soon as I tried to take it off it snapped I Wasn't happy about that. But what pissed me off even more was after 3 emails and a couple phone calls no reply I didn't want anything I just wanted to tell them to ship them without the studs in the front motor mount.
4th Gen not 5 At the same place I believe you bought yours here
http://thatsdax.com/ENGINE_KIT_PARTS_PAGE_3.html
"Dax must have to balance the lowers he "I was told" installs longer connecting rods and also drills holes in the conn rods.as you can see in battles photo & his looks the same as mine Ive not seen these holes in any other connecting rod either & Ive seen a few So I'm guessing a balance must be in order after that .
Battle your going to need a piston that has the 10 mm piston hole a few mm's lower than the normal ones .If you try to use a normal piston it will bottom out on the crank. Make sure you test it a few rounds before buttoning it all up.
Dax also uses better bolts a grade or 2 better than stock & mostly all allen heads. Hands down they are better cranks more dependable and longer lasting at pretty much the same price. the 2 smoothest & most powerful running motors I've had , have both had Dax lowers on them out of about 11 motors all together. So take from that what you will
Just remember the piston Battle I believe you need the flying horse or the Skyhawk piston as these two motors have the longer connecting rods
http://thatsdax.com/ENGINE_KIT_PARTS_PAGE_3.html
"Dax must have to balance the lowers he "I was told" installs longer connecting rods and also drills holes in the conn rods.as you can see in battles photo & his looks the same as mine Ive not seen these holes in any other connecting rod either & Ive seen a few So I'm guessing a balance must be in order after that .
Battle your going to need a piston that has the 10 mm piston hole a few mm's lower than the normal ones .If you try to use a normal piston it will bottom out on the crank. Make sure you test it a few rounds before buttoning it all up.
Dax also uses better bolts a grade or 2 better than stock & mostly all allen heads. Hands down they are better cranks more dependable and longer lasting at pretty much the same price. the 2 smoothest & most powerful running motors I've had , have both had Dax lowers on them out of about 11 motors all together. So take from that what you will
Just remember the piston Battle I believe you need the flying horse or the Skyhawk piston as these two motors have the longer connecting rods
No wprries bud. I have the top end covered. Tomorrow should btin my top end kit from fred at cr.machine. had it on my pk80 bottom and it rocked. Well untill I let my idiot buddy ride it that is. Still have all the goodies from the other kit but I plan on building a trash bike in the near future and thats what the old stuff will go on. That just seems to be the norm. In this hobby though. Always waiting on the mail. I've heard nothing but good things about this bottom end so im gonna give it a shot. Fred assured me it wouldnt effect the performance and he hasnt led me astray so far.
I sell the GEN V motors but here's a little caution about believing what you read on the internet.
I made the GEN V name up as in pulled it out of thin air, I mean I can call my motors anything I want right?
Just like other vendors do.
My "Gen V" motors come from the very same factory in China as the ones you get from Dax.
However my bottom ends like the one you bought come in a plastic bag from the factory with grade 8 allen heads, holes drilled in the so called 'balanced" crank, 40 mm stroke and oiling holes in the connecting rod, etc, etc.
Buy one of mine and one from Dax and compare them and my hunch is that they will be identical.
His motor does not have a longer connecting rod.
The 40 mm stroke is 2 mm more than a 38 mm stroke motor because the lower connecting rod pin is drilled 1mm closer to the outside.
His motor needs a PK style piston with the lower wrist pin hole.
A Skyhawk / GT 5 piston has the higher hole.
Who knows what a Flying Horse motor really is as some vendors call any and all of their motors by that brand name.
Sounds about right .However my bottom ends like the one you bought come in a plastic bag from the factory with grade 8 allen heads, holes drilled in the so called 'balanced" crank, 40 mm stroke and oiling holes in the connecting rod, etc, etc.
Buy one of mine and one from Dax and compare them and my hunch is that they will be identical.
Personally I've never taken a connecting rod out of the crank so when it measured longer with the bottom pin hole in the same position on the crank itself i automatically assumed the rod was longer...See what I get for assuming ?? I GET WRONG!!!
It never dawned on me the hole could be drilled closer to the end of the rod !! Thanks you for the heads up bro!
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I sell the GEN V motors but here's a little caution about believing what you read on the internet.
I made the GEN V name up as in pulled it out of thin air, I mean I can call my motors anything I want right?
Just like other vendors do.
My "Gen V" motors come from the very same factory in China as the ones you get from Dax.
However my bottom ends like the one you bought come in a plastic bag from the factory with grade 8 allen heads, holes drilled in the so called 'balanced" crank, 40 mm stroke and oiling holes in the connecting rod, etc, etc.
Buy one of mine and one from Dax and compare them and my hunch is that they will be identical.
This kind of honesty is the single biggest reason I did not buy a Dax. The fact that the price is slightly better was simply a bonus. I have been extremely satisfied with my engine and would buy another in a second.
Dax claims things that simply are not true.
"Made in America" my ass.