Starting this thread to show 3 of my current builds, not including the 1941 Simplex resto mod. This will go short and hopefully sweet as one Grubee Gt is complete and the other two are 90% assembled with motors and drivetrains complete. Starting with the Grubee which has less than twenty hours on her, it's the aluminum tank model without motor mount stub. Many of you are familiar with this frame, been around for quite awhile. I like it, quality welds 1 1/8" head tube, 2" bottom bracket, 26" frame on the short side, just enough room to mount 66cc China girl or Ktm 50, light weight but plenty strong for motorizing. Some drawback it's true, but over all good value and in my opinion very attractive styling. I've had one problem with this frame and only on one bike (this is my third) Kick stand mount plate cracked not on a weld but almost dead center, well away from any weld heat fatigue location. I'm not a vendor, it's just that people see them and stack hundred dollar bills until I say sold. The one that isfeatured on this thread is mine!! I am attaching photos and if my sizing is correct on the first few I'll follow up with the rest.
I'm more than a bit stodgy when it comes to description so let me know if it boors any or all & I'll desist and approach with a bit more sensitivity, you know.
The aluminum frame is just brushed and not polished or cleared coated in any way. I like the look of bare metal regardless it be brass, bronze, copper, aluminum or steel. Cold or hot drawn steel I concede to the paintsman, but often not for a bit of color just clear coat and protection. All common metal oxidizes. In common steels we call it rust. Brass and bronze tarnish. Aluminum just oxidizes, which oxidation is not as hard as diamond but fairly close on the hardness scale, Aluminum oxide is what is used as an abrasive, bonded into a phenolic resin carrier to form cutting & grinding discs so commonly used to cut metal.
Natural aluminum, like bronze and copper ages quite attractively, but can easily be polished out for a refreshed look.
The components:
I used large diameter RST mountain bike forks, taking care to remove all the silly graffti the manufacturers stick on things. They take on mountains, city streets are nothing, plenty robust and carry Sram calipers and 160mm disc. Headbadge is brass Indian reproduction, board track bars are by Sportsman, headset sealed bearings by Wilderness, motorcycle type throttle, real leather grip wraps, billet handlebar grip plugs by Shadow Conspiracy, period style repo led headlight, Saddle is a custom Rich Phillips leather, embossed with a traditional Navaho Indian squash blossom pattern (a tribal and international favorite) The saddle is slammed to the tank & seat tube, held in place by a custom mount of my own desigh, the rear of the saddle is supported from the rear brake mounts with brackets and mini-heim joints ...again my design and fab work. Just enough room between the saddle and bobbed/flipped fender for a small led tailight. The gas cap was designed by my self using 11 gaugecopper wire wrapped around the cap which is topped by a reproduction solid bass Indian concho.
Wheels are heavy duty Sta-tru mounted coaster rear and 6 bolt disc with Fat Frank 2.5" tires and thorn proof tubes. Used the Manic hub adaptor, bent coaster arm & have 44t mounted (have 36t, 40t, 48t & 54t available) using standard nylon tensioner and a case saver/ chain guide to help prevent chain from case lockup due to chain failure (may save your life!!!)
Motor is custom built with a few mild tuning tricks) modified by myself using 6cc Bicycle Motor Works head, Dellorto clone SHA 65 jet, Manic short shot intake, Jaguar electrics, NGK plug, xport finned aluminum exhaust header. More latter first we will see if my photo sizing skills have improved...I'm positive my camera work is still quite suspect. Rick C.
I'm more than a bit stodgy when it comes to description so let me know if it boors any or all & I'll desist and approach with a bit more sensitivity, you know.
The aluminum frame is just brushed and not polished or cleared coated in any way. I like the look of bare metal regardless it be brass, bronze, copper, aluminum or steel. Cold or hot drawn steel I concede to the paintsman, but often not for a bit of color just clear coat and protection. All common metal oxidizes. In common steels we call it rust. Brass and bronze tarnish. Aluminum just oxidizes, which oxidation is not as hard as diamond but fairly close on the hardness scale, Aluminum oxide is what is used as an abrasive, bonded into a phenolic resin carrier to form cutting & grinding discs so commonly used to cut metal.
Natural aluminum, like bronze and copper ages quite attractively, but can easily be polished out for a refreshed look.
The components:
I used large diameter RST mountain bike forks, taking care to remove all the silly graffti the manufacturers stick on things. They take on mountains, city streets are nothing, plenty robust and carry Sram calipers and 160mm disc. Headbadge is brass Indian reproduction, board track bars are by Sportsman, headset sealed bearings by Wilderness, motorcycle type throttle, real leather grip wraps, billet handlebar grip plugs by Shadow Conspiracy, period style repo led headlight, Saddle is a custom Rich Phillips leather, embossed with a traditional Navaho Indian squash blossom pattern (a tribal and international favorite) The saddle is slammed to the tank & seat tube, held in place by a custom mount of my own desigh, the rear of the saddle is supported from the rear brake mounts with brackets and mini-heim joints ...again my design and fab work. Just enough room between the saddle and bobbed/flipped fender for a small led tailight. The gas cap was designed by my self using 11 gaugecopper wire wrapped around the cap which is topped by a reproduction solid bass Indian concho.
Wheels are heavy duty Sta-tru mounted coaster rear and 6 bolt disc with Fat Frank 2.5" tires and thorn proof tubes. Used the Manic hub adaptor, bent coaster arm & have 44t mounted (have 36t, 40t, 48t & 54t available) using standard nylon tensioner and a case saver/ chain guide to help prevent chain from case lockup due to chain failure (may save your life!!!)
Motor is custom built with a few mild tuning tricks) modified by myself using 6cc Bicycle Motor Works head, Dellorto clone SHA 65 jet, Manic short shot intake, Jaguar electrics, NGK plug, xport finned aluminum exhaust header. More latter first we will see if my photo sizing skills have improved...I'm positive my camera work is still quite suspect. Rick C.
