I need help with Whizzer clutch slipping

[wrench]

Whizzer 90* right angle clutch arm
The measurement between the two holes should be 2 1/2"

As Ray mentioned You need to use the original Whizzer 90* right angle clutch arm and attach an original Whizzer spring to the Frame Like Whizzer designed it

If you count the coils on the spring Paul sent you, hopefully there the same as in my pic.
But I bet it's one coil longer
The correct length Spring and the 90* clutch arm is very important when mounting an auto clutch on a Whizzer frame.

AS ray said Use your 99 Whizzer Slip clutch arm and spring it will work with the auto clutch

 

[DaleIce]

I modified the new arm with a threaded piece of round stock, welded to the side. the eyebolt and spring adjust just fine.I figured out the adjustments necessary to tension the belts. I jumped on the bike, pedaled off and the engine started instantly, as usual. I rode down the slight incline out of the shop and then around a stump and up into the front yard at a good clip...then the centrifugal clutch overheated and doesn't work. It seems to be stuck "on". I can't rev the engine and get any speed up, at all. I took the belt cover off and couldn't touch the centrifugal clutch pulley...too hot. I'll try it again tomorrow, after it all cools off...any suggestions? I didn't ride for over 2 minutes total...

 

[wrench]

I modified the new arm with a threaded piece of round stock, welded to the side. the eyebolt and spring adjust just fine.I figured out the adjustments necessary to tension the belts. I jumped on the bike, pedaled off and the engine started instantly, as usual. I rode down the slight incline out of the shop and then around a stump and up into the front yard at a good clip...then the centrifugal clutch overheated and doesn't work. It seems to be stuck "on". I can't rev the engine and get any speed up, at all. I took the belt cover off and couldn't touch the centrifugal clutch pulley...too hot. I'll try it again tomorrow, after it all cools off...any suggestions? I didn't ride for over 2 minutes total...

Once ya open it up you should see why.

Cruzzer Clutch has different parts than the Original Whizzer Clutch.

At least it has a 1 year warranty thru Paul

 

[DaleIce]

take the brand new clutch apart? Shouldn't it work longer than 2 minutes? What's the design flaw? Any fix?

 

[wrench]

take the brand new clutch apart? Shouldn't it work longer than 2 minutes? What's the design flaw? Any fix?

There's a Snap Ring holding the 2 Curzzer clutch halves together
Ya gotta remove the snap ring and the clutch will come apart easily

If Paul tells ya to press the clutch apart don't do it. It's not necessary
Just take out the snap ring and the clutch comes apart easily.

The Cruzzer clutch center bolt can't be over tightened or it don't spin freely very well
Only lightly tighten the center bolt until it touches and put loctite on the threads so it don't loosen. Make sure the clutch spins freely by hand.

I never liked the Cruzzer clutch design

I modify the Cruzzer Clutch to be like my Whizzer Clutch in post #6
But to modify a Cruzzer Clutch to be like the Whizzer clutch in Post #6 is probably beyond your skill set.

Maybe ya should call Paul if ya think the Cruzzer Clutch is defective

 

[DaleIce]

Ah, operator error...

 

[DaleIce]

Bearings seem fine...didn't see a snap ring...put it back together and all seemed fine for a minute...then the carb seemed to run out of fuel...I had never messed with the carb. Turns out the P.O. stripped one mounting thread and used some sealant on the float bowl...might have fouled the jets...I'm researching parts...meanwhile, maybe someone would like to see my exhaust mods...and pulley tensioner mod and carb parts

 

[wrench]

didn't see a snap ring..

The snap ring is at the end of the center shaft
You can just see the 2 small holes in the snap ring for the snap ring pliers
Your gonna need to know how to take your Cruzzer Clutch apart because ya gotta grease the One Way Needle Bearing.
If ya don't grease this bearing it's not gonna last long.
It might ruin the center shaft, Then your $175 Auto Clutch is junk
Also if ya ever want to change the clutch shoes or a bearing ya gotta take it apar
I suggest taking your clutch apart and making sure that One Way Needle Bearing is greased
properly. Taiwan probably used hardly any grease

Whizzer USA recommend greasing the One Way Bearing every 600 miles
But I grease mine every 1K miles with a 50/50 mix of Moly grease and all purpose wheel bearing grease The reason ya gotta grease it often is because the grease flings off.
I know there's grease seals but they just catch the grease and stop it from getting on the clutch shoes, the seals don't keep the bearing fully greased
Only use about a thumbnail of Grease when greasing the One Way Bearing.


BTW I surprised ya didn't use your Original Whizzer 90* clutch arm and spring

 

[DaleIce]

hmmm...gotta look for the clip....I really didn't want to mod the original arm when it was easier to use the one Paul sent...

 

[wrench]

I really didn't want to mod the original arm when it was easier to use the one Paul sent...

The original arm don't need to be modified but ya gotta use the original spring with it.
and hook the spring to the frame in the original position

 

[DaleIce]

um, the thickness of the original arm would hold the pulley out too far....

 

[Timbo]

Hey everyone.

My Whizzer clutch story.

So I bought a clutch off ebay (expensive) 2yrs ago from the guy in Taiwan for my 2006 Whizzer. I wanted to add a auto clutch (like my 2002 model) as I would fry the motor belt as I would get into much of a hurry on takeoff. I fought everything that you are going through. Greased the one-way bearing and when it got hot it would leak grease and that would find its way into the shoes and slip to point off stopping. I did the pad sanding and all of that.

I had to chase belt sizes until I got them correct, I can take pics.

The setup I am now using is a combination of the old/new parts including the springs/bolts/arms with the new clutch. It would not work as received. Also, Alignment, belt size and tension issues.

After installing it and not relizing how close I was to it working as it was slipping. I decided to ignore it for a year ( I have other bikes) early last week, I was a day away from taking it all off and going back to the belts.

I decided to try ride it in the hills around the neighborhood until it started failing and then let it sit until the next day and do it again. It started working longer each time as now I am up to 10 miles and it then fades going up the hill but still works, unlike before. Before this it was like yours.

I am a big guy at 225lbs so it has to work hard. The 2002 whizzer has a auto clutch that is different older design but it hooks up better, but they are getting close, I expect them to be the same by the next couple or rides if the progress remains the same.

I am sure some of the issue (after getting everything aligned) last year was the pads not matching and now are get worn in as mentioned by others here with more experience than I.

If the auto clutch fails, I will go back to the belts. No more money/time on this auto clutch project.

 

[curtisfox]

Sounds to me that you need to lower your gear ratio, or it's just going to keep burning clutches in the hills............Curt

 

[Timbo]

How do you do that on a whizzer? It uses pulleys and there are no options.

 

[curtisfox]

About the only option is bigger pulley on the secondary drive, anything else would involve frame cutting........Curt

 

[wrench]

How do you do that on a whizzer? It uses pulleys and there are no options.

Whizzer did offer the auto clutch in 3 drive gear ratios
90mm - 70mm and 50mm

Whizzer offered the auto clutch where the clutch drum pulley could be removed and replaced with a different size

Many people preferd the 70mm pulley for better take off and hilly areas
Others liked the 50mm pulley for faster take off and steeper hills they encountered everyday

The only con to a smaller pulley is slower top end speed

 

[Timbo]

About the only option is bigger pulley on the secondary drive, anything else would involve frame cutting........Curt

Thats the clutch (large side) no option the other side is as small as it can go with the bearing go so no putting it on a lathe. I rode 20 miles yesterday with some slipping in the hills (20mph) and 35-40mph in the flats. I not seen different size sheaves.

 

[curtisfox]

Is it the clutch or the belt slipping? I had a old Monark twin back in the 50's same type of drive train, and it had belt slippage, I am not to familiar with the newer Whizzer but strain is in need of gear change. ..........Curt

 

[Timbo]

The belts are not slipping. That`s why I bought the clutch, so that it slips instead of the using belts (all belt setups), the small belt on the power pulley going to the center pulley is the one that takes all the abuse for taking off at stops sign and hills. If you turn on power lightly in flats and hills specifically, take offs, it works.

The whizzer power transfer for all belt layout is the motor drive pulley to center pulley (its having 2 pulleys) and then to the sheave. After checking it out further I may be able to turn down (lathe) that pulley on the power take off side of the clutch going to the sheave. but sinces it getting better every day I ride I will wait until there is no more improvement and if still needs it.

Hoping that is gets a little better which would be enought as I would rather keep my 40+mph top end (if possible).

 

[curtisfox]

Yep I know, same as the old Manark, hope you get it better............Curt