Huasheng problem.

I drained all the oil which was a disgusting color for oil that has not seen more than a mile, and noticed metalic clinking inside the engine. There are broken pieces in there the size of marbles.
 
I believe that I would be on the telephone with BikeBerry. That last problem, no compression, sounds like something internal to me. See if they will replace the engine.
 
I called them up. I'm going to fly there tomorrow with my engine in a back pack to see them face to face. hopefully it all turns out well... I live in vegas, they're in cali...
 
If they didn't give you a belt drive gearbox, see of you can exchange it for one that is, also. They are a little shady when it comes to passing along inferior gearboxs with their kits.
 
So I tried taking my engine with me on the plane. TSA wasn't happy about it... I guess I have to actually mail this stupid thing in...
 
lol

I saw that coming...

You would need to completely drain all the fossil fuels and lubricants, then clean out any residue which may develop any vapor, before even attempting to board any sort of public transport, these days.

I don't think they'd even allow a small flask of spirits, these days... go figger! lol

Anything volatile must be shipped ground freight, and identified as such.

Good luck
rc
 
Damn that sucks!
I hope ur issue gets resolved brobeans.
For my next kit I'm probaly gonna deal with Duane from thatsdax, all I hear is good things
 
Thx guys, your advice regarding ring damage from gas-flushed oil saved my new
HS in the nick of time. The up side, I got a 10 hr break-in done in 2 1/2 hrs. I
had just the amount of fine glitter in the diluted oil you'd expect on the 1st
change and my compression is still just a hair less than i'd have liked. but I'm
lucky to have lost only a small fraction of an hp.
 
I need help!!! i just got my kit assembled after 5 weeks of slow progress. I got non methanol gas today, checked my gap on the plug showed 0.60mm from factory, I got 0w-40 mobil one full synthetic filled it with a tube and long funnel till it dripped over the edge checked the level with the stick was all good to go, but no start I don't get it It didn't sound like it was getting any fire. My clutch was spinning over also or I saw it trying to turn the motor over. I have a mechanic I can ask about this in town here but will have to do so after work today.

Any replys will help,
James
 
When you gapped the plug the small coil that connects to the top of the plug
may have slid back into the rubber housing. when you put it back on it may have seemed connected, but you really might need to slide that coil forward inside to actually get it
down on the plug. At least, that's what happened to me. Hope that helps.
 
Sinistar said:
I need help!!! i just got my kit assembled after 5 weeks of slow progress. I got non methanol gas today, checked my gap on the plug showed 0.60mm from factory, I got 0w-40 mobil one full synthetic filled it with a tube and long funnel till it dripped over the edge checked the level with the stick was all good to go, but no start I don't get it It didn't sound like it was getting any fire. My clutch was spinning over also or I saw it trying to turn the motor over. I have a mechanic I can ask about this in town here but will have to do so after work today.

Any replys will help,
James
Click to expand...

Are you using the choke when you try to start the engine? My Huasheng won't start when cold unless the choke is full-on.
 
My HuaSheng is the same way. The choke must be full on or it won't start.
The very first time I started the engine it fired on the third pull.
I left the choke full on for less than 15 seconds then I turned it to half choke until the engine was warm; Turned the choke off and proceeded to tune up the idle mixture screw and idle speed screw. Now it often starts when stone cold on the first pull, with the choke full on of course.
When warm, no choke, one pull.
 
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I second the need for the full choke start, but again, he sez it doesn't seem to
fire. you can check that by removin the plug and reconnecting to the plug wire.
then pull the starter cord. if you're holding the plug wire in low light you should see
a spark or get a slight jolt to your hand. If you've got a spark, the another possibility
is you're set up to rich, and it's flooding. that's bad since too much gas washes the
oil from the rings.(another problem I encountered when I first got mine being unfamiliar
with the HS.)
Chances are the problem is something simple & minor, but if not, some suppliers
are helpful and others just plain beligerent when it comes to backing what they
sell. Hope you bought from a good guy.
 
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I got it running it was my ground location spot. I got the carb adjusted after the 5 min warmup it's a good smooth idle with no ill effects. I will try to post some pics here or maybe in the what you did today thread, i have no camera but have a friend with one.

Low and behold though My one way bearing lasted for 5 seconds just a brief jump towards a wall when I first started it and that's all she wrote.

I will weld it when I can get the time.

Cheers to all.

.flg.
 
Darn, I thought about the ground, but I forgot to mention it. Glad your up and running.
Breakin is the first gallon. Go easy; vary the speed at intervals. Under no cir-
cumstance wrap it past 7200 rpm for an extended length of time or run it too rich.
you might wanna get a feeler gauge and adjust the valves.( $6 to $10 at any auto
parts store) thatsdax.com has a good how-to video, pretty simple, but the consensus
is that the tolerances he gives aren't correct. I don't recollect for a certainty the exact
numbers. I do know my performance improved considerably. Aleman should know.
If you're doing it right performance should improve with each start up during
breakin.
 
Sinistar,
As luck would have I had those tolerances written down right under my nose.
these are honda specs for the gx50, of which the HS142f is a clone:
intake valve: .08mm or .0031" , exhaust valve: .11mm or .0043"
 
Ahhhh Thanks Otero that's the very next thing I wanted to get ahold of. I will try to post a pic this evening here in this thread if my photo neighbor is home. But I'm getting good performance I'm running 0w-40 mobil 1 full syn and mid grade non ethanol gas a station here offers it. I just barely adjusted the carb like gunthers directions said.

Cheers to all.
 
Ok, I had the point happen and heard to much clamor and adjusted my valves. I glued my cover back on with some yamabond 4 motorsport, it takes along time to cure so I get to fireup the results tomm morning and hope it doesn't leak. I got a adjustment of 30min per valve for the time spent to get it just perfect i.e. the drag of the feeler and with good tight jam nut setting to lock it in place since the oil/gas was still coating the parts. A full build on the other hand could have the room to put mild lock tite on the jam nuts.

cheers to all and thanks otero for the specs.

.flg.
 
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