Huasheng problem.
- Thread starter Rico
- Start date
thx anyway, guess I should ask Dax. Gotta tell ya though, for reliability my
little Honda gx35 has got the HS beat hands down. It never gets persnickety
starting. one pull does it. I've never had to limp home with a locked up clutch.
And, for all that the hs 142 really isn't that much more powerful though it weighs
nearly twice as much. I love the extra power, but I hate the hassles.
little Honda gx35 has got the HS beat hands down. It never gets persnickety
starting. one pull does it. I've never had to limp home with a locked up clutch.
And, for all that the hs 142 really isn't that much more powerful though it weighs
nearly twice as much. I love the extra power, but I hate the hassles.
I have made an interesting discovery with regard to the type of 3 shoe
clutch sold springs stretched across the bell side. As I mentioned earlier
here I've had heat related issues with spring failure on this sort of
clutch. Now I've found an effective way to eliminate the problem. These
clutches only fully engage at about 4500 rpm,(19 mph for me). What
this means is that every time I accelerate or slow down that clutch is
slipping and only partially engaged, creating a lot of heat in the bell which
decays the temper of the springs. Add to this the fact that only two
points on the spring are actual in contact with the connecting hole in
the shoe.(see attachment)
Fear not! there is an easy solution to the problem. Using a cone-shaped
diamond dental bit in my dremel I rounded off the right angle inside edges
of the spring connecting hole. Stress is now distributed evenly through
the curvature of the spring, and, as an added bonus, tension on the spring
has been slightly reduced allowing full engagement at about 3800 rpm.
WHEW!
Hmm... it sez my attach. is to large to enter & I'm havin a helluva
time trying to get it reduced. Hope my description will be enuff to
get it across.
clutch sold springs stretched across the bell side. As I mentioned earlier
here I've had heat related issues with spring failure on this sort of
clutch. Now I've found an effective way to eliminate the problem. These
clutches only fully engage at about 4500 rpm,(19 mph for me). What
this means is that every time I accelerate or slow down that clutch is
slipping and only partially engaged, creating a lot of heat in the bell which
decays the temper of the springs. Add to this the fact that only two
points on the spring are actual in contact with the connecting hole in
the shoe.(see attachment)
Fear not! there is an easy solution to the problem. Using a cone-shaped
diamond dental bit in my dremel I rounded off the right angle inside edges
of the spring connecting hole. Stress is now distributed evenly through
the curvature of the spring, and, as an added bonus, tension on the spring
has been slightly reduced allowing full engagement at about 3800 rpm.
WHEW!
Hmm... it sez my attach. is to large to enter & I'm havin a helluva
time trying to get it reduced. Hope my description will be enuff to
get it across.
Otero,
I've had a few pocket bike Cag stage2 engines with the same clutch & same problem. It got so bad that on almost every ride, I'd have a spring break. I got so fed up, I tried two other clutches & this one was the best.
The springs are much heavier gauge, the clutch is better engineered & haven't snapped. I've since retired the Cag's in favor of Tanakas...
Here is a pic
-lowracer-
I've had a few pocket bike Cag stage2 engines with the same clutch & same problem. It got so bad that on almost every ride, I'd have a spring break. I got so fed up, I tried two other clutches & this one was the best.
The springs are much heavier gauge, the clutch is better engineered & haven't snapped. I've since retired the Cag's in favor of Tanakas...
Here is a pic
-lowracer-
Attachments
Staton sells them & they are avail on eBay & another online scooter parts place. The online scooter place had the best price
-Lowracer-
-Lowracer-
Will that work on a straight 5/8 shaft engine? And I seen one on a scooter site but its too small for my upcoming attempt at a personal jackshaft tranny thingie.
I've got one like that. the shoes barely lasted a week and wouldn't disengage at idle.
turns out though I ordered the GX50 clutch(engages at 3000) ,but the springs on
mine were for the Gx100(engages at 2000). I went round and round with Dave,
but he refused to admit the mistake even after I sent him the springs which were
clearly for a GX100. I paid approx. $60 for that clutch. I can get 4 of these other
for $60 shipped. I don't mind making a few mods if it'll save me $45. Once I
solved the problem the cheaper clutches work better than his ever did. I've been
through his whole catalog. He's got nothing I can't find cheaper or make
myself. Staton is off my list of vendors!
turns out though I ordered the GX50 clutch(engages at 3000) ,but the springs on
mine were for the Gx100(engages at 2000). I went round and round with Dave,
but he refused to admit the mistake even after I sent him the springs which were
clearly for a GX100. I paid approx. $60 for that clutch. I can get 4 of these other
for $60 shipped. I don't mind making a few mods if it'll save me $45. Once I
solved the problem the cheaper clutches work better than his ever did. I've been
through his whole catalog. He's got nothing I can't find cheaper or make
myself. Staton is off my list of vendors!