that's exactly right. The single coil has barely enough juice to get the spark going. A helo bulb would suck that power dry.
How to run bearings in this set up?
- Thread starter RocketJ
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There is a electric start version of the 212, it would have the stator for charging..........Curt
I'd love to have a Trailmaster minibike to see how well the light works at night! The setup on a bike even during daylight hours would be a real
good safety factor for car and truck motorists with seeing you coming at them. Those headlamps are big and would be really visible even during
daylight hours!
I have a friend that is working on mini bike ( chopper version ) he bought a 212 predictor with electric start, nice compact outfit, i believe they put out either 12 or 15 amps............Curt
They get a little flicker or I should say dimming at low rpm and a supercap or small battery supply would prevent that. I use to have an old
Cushman scooter which was great for running at night since when I was young I'd run it to a quarry to catfish at night. That minibike never
failed me with it's old Briggs engine on it. I was only 14 and boy did I put the country miles on it and that was when all we had was gravel
and dirt roads. Those old Cushman scooters were well built and you have to watch out on the gravel roads where the gravel was piled up
on the shoulders and especially in the center of the road caused by the traffic on the roads. I've been debating for awhile on buying a
Trailmster II just to be able to get to the good fishing spots and even for winter riding. These so-called trail bicycles can't handle the rough
country riding since they aren't built for them even though the adds show them on trails which is a joke. Take one of them out in a field over
here and you'll ruin the drivetrain and frame.
do you have to do anything different to have a lighting coil and electric start going?
I might put a electric start on it later on but I might not since I don't want the extra weight+battery on the bike which would restrict it to
pulling a trailer which I do. The bike is mostly used as a utility bike and has been good for that for over 2 1/2 years. The CVT on this
engine is really not big enough for the HP it puts out. The engine can slip a brandnew belt if too much power is put to it loaded or
without any extra weight. The belts are premium quality belts that I run from GoPowerSports so they aren't cheap ones like off of Ebay
which I found out the hard way wouldn't hold up and stretch. A 212cc is way too much torque and power for a bike and needs to be
respected. You are riding a missile on a bike with one and they will break things like the fellas online have commented on.
I have commented on this in earlier posts and to do it right on a bike go with a Lifan 125cc that has a transmission and use it on a bike
frame. The frames will have to be modified to fit the engine and the mount. That engine is the perfect size with a transmission for a bike
and a lot less HP/Torque versus the Predator 212cc engine which is better suited for minibikes.
Update 6/23/21: The bike is finally back together. I spent the better part of the week repairing the back wheel. I had to shave down every spoke otherwise they would have punctured the tire again while truing it. I got it running on the stand as well and I'm glad I did it this way. 3 major issues I ran into. 1: The breather tube spits a ton of fuel. I'm sure there's a minor fix, but I'm not knowledgeable enough so if anyone can chime in please do. 2: The engine actually has too much power on start up. Even at idle the bike just moves the back wheel very quickly. I don't know if this would change once it's on the ground with 160 lbs of weight on it, but I'd rather do more testing than crash. and third: the cvt drive actually sheered my shaft key right off. I'm going to assume I need a solid steel one instead, but if anyone has a better idea, let me know. Other than that the bike looks great. I really want to get started on the sidecar as well, but for some reason I'm just having a major mental block about the design. James65 and silverbear have some amazing designs for theirs and I wanted to do something similar. I'm using heim joints and a pull behind bike trailer for the base, but Can't figure out the pivot system for a btr frame. Any close up picks for a design would be helpful.
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As far as I know the only aluminum key is used on flywheel of engine. Anyway on Briggs that's what I have a small package of spares for. HF has a nice kit for cheap of all different sizes of steel keys that come in a plastic case with dividers. The clutch on my bike is the steel key as well as jackshafts pulley an sprockets.
The engine you have is the HF I think I see. If I'm seeing it right the engine is tilted maybe 60 degrees forward (counter clockwise). Something maybe to do with that. Others know more on HF. I tilted my Briggs backward 20 degrees and it was OK. Something was said about how much oil to use, if it is different due to the tilt?
Others will probably chime in on that.
The engine you have is the HF I think I see. If I'm seeing it right the engine is tilted maybe 60 degrees forward (counter clockwise). Something maybe to do with that. Others know more on HF. I tilted my Briggs backward 20 degrees and it was OK. Something was said about how much oil to use, if it is different due to the tilt?
Others will probably chime in on that.
you can buy aluminum keys for regular shafts easily. there's no issue with tilting a predator engine 90 degrees. It just requires extra oil and a sensor disconnect. That shouldn't be causing any issue.
I sent you a DM... please call me if you need help with this.
