How to run bearings in this set up?

EZL

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May 13, 2016
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Chenoa, Illinois, USA
Lynne of MBrebel had a brain [email protected] on a 78cc Pred. She was a 2smoke builder. Somebody nicer than me musta showed her the ON-OFF switch. That bike and it was a nice one, ran when I looked last. She lives bout 1/2 hr South of me.
To
Well, that hidden shutoff switch would give newcomers a problem. I wonder if she still has it?
 

EZL

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2016
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Chenoa, Illinois, USA
Yup, she found the switch, and is a runner. Interesting set up. Rear single speed cassette freewheel.
Tom
If she has a cassette on that bike I bet she doesn't have many miles on it. The Shimano cassette on my bike was not used
for shifting it was used as a single speed bike and the 212cc buzzed the bearing out at a little over 500 miles on it.
The bigger single speed bearing assembly with a coaster brake would have lasted longer and that's the reason I went
with the mag wheels with sealed bearings and they haven't given a minutes problem since.
 

Ralph hop

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Nov 14, 2019
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If the carb is still mounted like this in the picture from post #39 it won't work, might even catch fire. Earlier I mentioned a stray ground wire by mistake, meant to say stray wire* it's either neutral or hot, don't really remember would have to check.
 

Tom from Rubicon

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Apr 4, 2016
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Rubicon, Wisconsin
If she has a cassette on that bike I bet she doesn't have many miles on it. The Shimano cassette on my bike was not used
for shifting it was used as a single speed bike and the 212cc buzzed the bearing out at a little over 500 miles on it.
The bigger single speed bearing assembly with a coaster brake would have lasted longer and that's the reason I went
with the mag wheels with sealed bearings and they haven't given a minutes problem since.
Lynne developed a (system) probably pirated from some one else that incorporated a drive sprocket and brake disc on the left side of the hub, meant for just a brake disc. She had a built wheel somebody returned with a cross threaded broken screw in it. Lynne gave me the wheel to do with what I wished. I had been providing machine shop services for her.
Got the broken screw out easy. Rethreaded the 6x1mm to 1/4-28. Cassette was only ever meant for pedal drive.
Tom
 
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EZL

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May 13, 2016
336
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Chenoa, Illinois, USA
Lynne developed a (system) probably pirated from some one else that incorporated a drive sprocket and brake disc on the left side of the hub, meant for just a brake disc. She had a built wheel somebody returned with a cross threaded broken screw in it. Lynne gave me the wheel to do with what I wished. I had been providing machine shop services for her.
Got the broken screw out easy. Rethreaded the 6x1mm to 1/4-28. Cassette was only ever meant for pedal drive.
Tom
I suppose it was a jackshaft end with a disk rotor for braking? That setup using a multi-disk clutch system to drive the rear sprocket
won't get you much in speed unless you rev-line the 212cc by removing the governor. Very dangerous over reving a 212cc with a
stock flywheel! The clutch drivetrain is limited until it is coupled to a CVT. CarsandCameras tested both drive systems and the CVT
won out with low-end torque plus high-end speed on the karts. The CVT is noisy to run but a Lifan with a manual transmission might
be the best of all worlds or going electric. The gasoline engines will win out for distance.
 
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RocketJ

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Jun 20, 2018
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so a few new updates. I finally got the bike working. Whoever mentioned removing the oil sensor was correct. It starts up great. I was losing sleep over the tighness from the drum brake and the truss fork, so sadly that fork is gone, but it's replaced with a monark II which works great and looks amazing. I have 1 question about it though. How does someone mount a fender on it? I don't see a fender brake and every picture seems to show just the side braces mounted somewhere on the fork. Also can I run a headlight from the oil sensor wires?
 

5-7HEAVEN

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Aug 2, 2008
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Rocket, you can’t run a headlight from the oil sensor wires.

The sensor is a simple “open seeking ground” switch. Probably filled with mercury. When the switch is tilted, the mercury connects the end and center contacts inside the sensor and shorts the coil wire to ground.

This turns the engine off.
 
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RocketJ

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Jun 20, 2018
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Rocket, you can’t run a headlight from the oil sensor wires.

The sensor is a simple “open seeking ground” switch. Probably filled with mercury. When the switch is tilted, the mercury connects the end and center contacts inside the sensor and shorts the coil wire to ground.

This turns the engine off.
ah bummer
 

5-7HEAVEN

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Aug 2, 2008
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For $20 on eBay, you can buy parallel charging coils for your 212 engine. It bolts directly onto your engine block, replacing your single ignition coil behind your flywheel.

It’s designed to run a headlight from it.
 

EZL

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May 13, 2016
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Chenoa, Illinois, USA
For $20 on eBay, you can buy parallel charging coils for your 212 engine. It bolts directly onto your engine block, replacing your single ignition coil behind your flywheel.

It’s designed to run a headlight from it.
Thanks 5-7Heaven, I was wanting to put a minibike headlight on my bike and maybe a "SuperCap" to hold a charge so the headlamp doesn't
go down in intensity when idling. Another thing would be nice is to add signal LEDs to the bike for safety reasons. I was considering a starter
but the added wight is not worth it. Those headlamps are expensive and a high-intensity LED would be better fitted into the chrome shell.
The bicycle LEDs aren't safe enough since the bike can run well over 30 mph at night and any faster would be dangerous since deer and
raccoons could get on the road. The headlamp would be safer even in the daylight hours for auto motorists would be able to see you.
 

5-7HEAVEN

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Aug 2, 2008
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Sorry, you’ll also need to buy the special flywheel, which has dual magnets. These are positioned 180 degrees from each other.

That’s why the aluminum flywheel won’t work. It only has the single magnet.

All Honda engines and their clones have tapered shafts, for “wedge-mate” connection.
 

EZL

Well-Known Member
May 13, 2016
336
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Chenoa, Illinois, USA
I take it the OEM is a tapered shaft if I got this right?
Another thing, the aluminum flywheel is meant for racing only in rpm ranges exceeding 3600-6500+ rpm. Like the old high-performance
cars, if the rpm exceeds the torque-curve power band, speed goes to no gain in power, lifter float. The catch, no hydraulic lifters just
mechanical and limited by camshaft profile plus valve springs. Just be very careful running without a rev-limiter on the 212cc if the
flywheel explodes you might lose a leg or your life. Leave the rev-limiter alone which comes in at 3650 rpm and from my experience,
3000 rpm is way above 60 mph with a CVT and too dangerous with tires not DOT rated like motorcycle tires! I might add, never run
without the CVT belt cover! The belt cover will at least prevent damage if a belt breaks and you don't want that belt to break between
your legs or around your legs!