How to repaint a bike frame

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Paintin' started by OrangeBrian, Mar 8, 2010.

  1. phoobarnvaz

    phoobarnvaz New Member

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    I do have a suggestion that will save you TONS of money & be usable for PC work...etc. Buy.com has a WD40 Turbo Air rechargeable blower. Paid $10 for it about 6 months ago...so may be that much or just a few dollars more. Comes with an attachable brush...an attachable nosile attachment & a recharger base.

    Just had a brain f*rt...what about using something like a Wagner or B&D consumer air paint unit??? Seen them about about $40-$80 new & at pawn shops for whatever they would sell them for. You should be able to sell it for a few bucks & come away with an easy way to paint whatever...even your home if it needed to be painted after this.

    Just had another thought...why not get a bare new frame...find the decals & build it up the way you want? Would love to do an "army" type of paint job or candy apple red paint job. A new frame would allow you to choose whatever type of frame you want...rather than just using whatever you have found.
     
  2. Krazykooter

    Krazykooter New Member

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    Barely awake great info I agree with the angle grinder but doesn't that scrape the metal? (leave scrape marks) And as for it kicking you are right wear gloves while doing this bc I grinded off some skin road rash from grinders takes your skin off quicker then yah say OH crap...
     
  3. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    Thanks, Krazykooter

    Well, if you use the angle "grinder" with a high-speed wire wheel attachment & a light touch (need anyway or it'll kick like ya said heh) it'll be fine...

    ...unless it's an aluminum bike, then it'll happily erase your bike completely lol - that's when I'd break out the nasty paint stripper ;)
     
  4. TerrontheSnake

    TerrontheSnake New Member

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    I just ran across this post, and I really just wanna give BA props! Great Job man I really enjoy the thorough explinations of almost every aspect you could cover. What an informative , and well thought post. Many of the things you mentioned I had learned through trial and error (which is expensive) and other things I was not aware of still, I wish your post would have found me three years ago...lol, I was going to be posting a detailed rundown of the water drop technique in one of my other posts, it was recommended by another forum member so I did research, after that I went and got some small canvas's. I tried the tech 6 different ways before I found what I liked but it's cool stuff. Is this thread a sticky yet? Should be.

    1)Fender (Camera doesn't pic up the detail very well through the gloss)2 Final canvas
     

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    #44 TerrontheSnake, May 4, 2010
    Last edited: May 4, 2010
  5. joe joe dogface

    joe joe dogface New Member

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    I have had good luck with the spray on and brush on citristripper, I get it at Ace hardware, it is citrus based and it has little to no oder. You can get it on your hands and it will not burn. This stuff will melt the paint right off, I use a small brass bristle brush to get in the corners, it may take two or three coats to get to the bare metal, but you cant beat the safety of this stuff!!!! Good luck!
     
  6. locell

    locell New Member

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    Try out Krylon "farm and impliment" paint. I used it on a frame and it worked very well, seems to almost be an oil-based paint but I'm not sure. It fills in slight imperfections and dries tough and shiny. The only issue you may have is the color selections are limited. john deere green, caterpillar yellow, farmer red, ford blue etc. Real basic selection but really durable and designed to use on metal. Sprayed mine over a smoothed out beat up original paint with some parts sanded down to the metal and it looks great.

    pics here: http://motorbicycling.com/f26/motorized-bike-version-2-0-a-19819.html#post189445
     
    #46 locell, Jun 14, 2010
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2010
  7. r00t4rd3d

    r00t4rd3d New Member

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    I got a dumb question. If I clear coat flat black will it stay flat ?
     
  8. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    If ya use a flat or semigloss clear - then yus ;)

    (I'd reco the semi - it's easier to clean BTW)
     
  9. Gary Papesh

    Gary Papesh New Member

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    Barely is right on. The prep work is the hardest ,but most important to getting a good result. I might add that I have used a product called " aircraft finish remover" that I buy at my local auto paint supply store. This stuff works like magic. Paint it on heavy in even strokes, one direction only. In seconds it will start to wrinkle the paint. After about 5 minutes, use some coarse steel wool, and some water to loosen it off. A paint scraper works good on tight spots. I would not recommend a wire brush, it flicks little globs of the chemical all over you. The bad part: this stuff is caustic ,big time. Goggles , and long rubber gloves are mandatory. It will not eat holes in your clothes like battery acid does, but you will know in seconds if you get any on you. Keep a hose nearby. If you are wearing coveralls, goggles, face shield , and gauntlet rubber gloves, you should be ok. I like it better than grinding, less breathing all that dust. Good luck!
     
  10. Desmond

    Desmond New Member

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    I've used many aerosol paints, but nothing comes close to Colorite motorcycle colors. It's mixed to order and comes fresh in the can. I repainted some panels on my Ducati that still match the originals after a year. This is a durable urethane that comes in any color you can find on a stock motorcycle, and their clear coat is great stuff.
    Downside is the $30 per can of color, $15 for the clear.

    I've heard of other shops that fill spray cans with automotive paint, but none are in my town. Check around the web. Many hours of prep deserves a good final coat.
     
    #50 Desmond, Dec 20, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2010
  11. GasX

    GasX New Member

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    Anyone ever use a corded power drill with wire brush attachment to strip paint?
     
  12. phoobarnvaz

    phoobarnvaz New Member

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    I have a long time ago. Make sure once you get it stripped to prime it to keep rust from forming.
     
  13. Gary Papesh

    Gary Papesh New Member

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    You can use a brush, but the ones that hook up to a drill usually run too slow to be effective. Small diameter ones, rated for 20,000 rpm, when used with a die grinder work better, but a face shield is a must, small wires will fly!
    You can also use wire brushes on an angle grinder, they are agressive, and get the job done. Which ever brush you use, you will need to sand the frame when you are done. The brush kind of "burns" the paint off, and needs some clean up.
    Or you can use paint stripper, and coarse steel wool. Go to the auto parts , or body shop supply store to get the good stuff.
    This will get the frame down to bare metal, after 2 or 3 coats.
    Good luck!
     
  14. jayson

    jayson New Member

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    Just got me a 50's kc Higgins frame with Springer fork
    I spent over 6 hours stripping the paint off t
    he good ol fashion way. Lot Of work and idts my first buil
    d/paint job thanks for the tips.
     
  15. allen standley

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  16. thegnu

    thegnu New Member

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    easiest way to strip your bike = sand blast just remember to get primer on it asap blasted metal is very vulnerable to humidity an I have seen it start to turn orange in a matter of hours .
    Gary
     
  17. Joe_Knesek

    Joe_Knesek New Member

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    I agree. Also do not touch the frame with bare hands once the paint is stripped. The salt and oil in your hands is about the last thing you want on a bare frame.
     
  18. jayson

    jayson New Member

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    I use aircraft paint stripper and a lil elbow grease and some fine steel wool
    Pads, I used a wire wheel before and it left abrasions. After I stripped it I used
    Mineral spirits to wipe the frame after stripping and a fine sanding paper. Th
    en primer. The more attention to detail the better the results. I
    do mine all by hand.
     
  19. forksofpower

    forksofpower New Member

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    Lots of good info here. Thanks!
     
  20. phoobarnvaz

    phoobarnvaz New Member

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    Would rubber/latex surgical gloves work or would these carry salt/oil from your skin?
     

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