how i made an extended front motor mount

[bairdco]

on a lot of cruiser frames, the front mount needs to be extended, and i've been trying to figure out a cheap, simple way to do it, and i did.

(caution! the use of a seatpost is involved. )

the pics pretty much explain it all. the first one was my first, lousy idea that i rigged up just so i could get the rest of the bike put together. the studs were bending before i even had the bike together. if i woulda left it like this, there'd be a motor by the side of the road somewhere.

so, here's what i made with basic hand tools.

the materials are:

(picture 2)
regular motor mount and bracket

old seatpost

3/8 stainless allthread, 2 nuts, and a lockwasher

2 "large frame adapters" (if you don't have two of these, any piece of steel will work, but you gotta do some more cutting and drilling.)

(pic3)

first, drill out the center hole in the adapter plates so the 3/8 allthread fits.

(pic 4)

grind out enough room in the stock motor mount so the nut fits. ( note: a lock washer and nut won't fit inside, so it's just getting a nut.) be careful, these mounts grind easy. you don't want to take out anymore than you need.

measure how long you need to make yours, and then measure it again. if you get two different measurements, measure again...

see next post...

 

[bairdco]

when measuring, be sure to take into account the width of the two plates and the motor mount.

(pics 5 and 6)

this is how it looks all put together.

i use grade 8 allen head socket cap bolts, and this will help your installation, because depending on how short your mount is, it's gonna be tough to fit the bolts in.
picture 6 shows how i did mine.

pic 7 is done, mounted, and plenty strong.

 

[Cabinfever1977]

Looks good, thats why i keep spare parts in a box for, always good to see diffrent ways to mount something.

 

[2door]

Bairdco,
Very slick. I like it. Thanks for sharing.
Okay, now for the critisizing...Ya just gotta do sumpin' with that shiney motor. Maybe go to a gun shop and pick up some antiquing material for steel. They call it 'Browning' not the brand name but for what it does to gun metal. It stains it a nice old brown color so the metal looks old. It is applied with a brush or cloth, left a few minutes then wiped off. Something like wood stain but made for metal and is very durable. It lasts forever. That would give the aluminum engine a nice patina that would match the bike and look like it was supposed to have a motor. But...that's just my opinion. The bike is still an awsome build even with a shiney engine.

Tom

 

[BarelyAWake]

ZOMFG bairdco - it's a chunk of handlebar! It's gonna bend

Seriously tho, as usual you've come up with a great solution with some stuff ya just had kickin' about - lookin' good man!

...Ya just gotta do sumpin' with that shiney motor. Maybe go to a gun shop and pick up some antiquing material for steel. They call it 'Browning' not the brand name but for what it does to gun metal...
Tom

o.o

oic... ya give this awesome tip to bairdco and here I've been wonderin' how in heck I'm gonna "age" my motor *shakes fist* i r stealin' it trufax Hmm... now that ya got me actually thinkin' - I wonder how that fake gun bluing stuff would look I will hafta experiment, thanks Tom

 

[Norman]

STOP the seat post/handle bar abuse send me $5000.00 to help stop the abuse the next handle bar or seat post could be yours.
looks good to me.

 

[bairdco]

if i'm ever stranded on a deserted island, all i need is a seatpost and some handlebars to survive...

 

[BarelyAWake]

can't forget beer...

cans ofc

 

[Dan]

Purty awesome Baird.

Tom, gonna try that. What was the oven cleaner one? To alter the surface

 

[exavid]

I had to extend the front mount on my bike too, I used the extra motor mount section which added about an inch and a quarter or so. I double nutted the front mounting studs and removed them and replaced them with a piece of 6mm all thread I purchased at Ace Hardware. Just double nut them and screw them in. I used a die grinder (could have been a hacksaw) to cut off the excess length. I've replaced all the nuts on the installation with elastic stop nuts except for areas that get hot such as the exhaust and intake manifold.

 

[ryan 14]

if i'm ever stranded on a deserted island, all i need is a seatpost and some handlebars to survive...

and wifi to talk to us

 

[Dan]

and wifi to talk to us

arffff, arfff, snork lol

Ryan, I laughed so hard I spit. No kidding woke the wife. 2 funny and please stop it. (She could hurt us both, snork)

 

[bairdco]

nah, i'll just send you 2 stroke smoke signals...

 

[caincustomcycles]

that is what i would do if i got a cruiser frame. thanks for set its' an example to save money and safe to ride...

 

[kkalan]

Where can I fine the large frame adapters?

 

[bairdco]

they usually come with the kit. you could ask some members here if they have any extras, or call piston bikes, venice, or any other vendor and they'd probably sell you a couple for cheap.

or make your own. it's just a couple chunks of steel with some holes drilled in it.

 

[CarpsCustoms]

Hey bairdco what do you think about a rear mount made of 2 sections of this steel right here ( that im holding in the picture) ? Or should i get something solid to fab instead????

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/brandoncarpenter73/library/?sort=3&page=1

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but im building my cruiser "Blackie" . Thanks

 

[bairdco]

not sure what exactly your plan is, but that steel is stronger than the cheap stock mounts so if you do it right it should be fine.

a note on my original mount. that worked on my bike for 3+ yeard, even after flipping it over at 45mph. i sold the bike and still have the mount.

 

[[email protected]]

Great info on that. Thanks! I have a 1965 Schwinn Cruiser with a a lot of V- room space and hopefully that will help. What do you think about using the JNM vibration motor mounts in lue of?
I have a matter of the hub width in the old 1965 Schwinn - such as the plates for the rear sprocket mount assembly is to small to fit around the hub, due to in hub gears - making the hub larger. Can I jig saw the plates to make them fit around the hub and be okay? Thanks, Capt. Rog

 

[2door]

Great info on that. Thanks! I have a 1965 Schwinn Cruiser with a a lot of V- room space and hopefully that will help. What do you think about using the JNM vibration motor mounts in lue of?
I have a matter of the hub width in the old 1965 Schwinn - such as the plates for the rear sprocket mount assembly is to small to fit around the hub, due to in hub gears - making the hub larger. Can I jig saw the plates to make them fit around the hub and be okay? Thanks, Capt. Rog

Welcome to the forum. I've sent you a private message regarding your username.

Don't use rubber! This old subject has been hashed over here too many times to mention. Use our search feature and see what others have said about mounting an engine with rubber or resilient material. It doesn't work! Mount the engine as solid to the frame as possible.

Tom