How fast can your 80cc really go?
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Like Phatman Motors, my 80cc (mallory power cell [gives our cdi's a stronger spark, speed increases 3-5 mphs fits bikes perfectly], msd 8.5 plug wire, bosch platinum size 4302 [it has two ground electrodes=more sparks=more power], 27 sprocket [main modification increase speeds up 10 mph from kings sales and services], and an uncorked original mufffler (increase power about 5 mph alone)...I've gone 48.5 mph drafting a delivery truck and I was gaining on it pretty qucikly had to slow down. I also cruise in the 40's about 95% to full throttle. The kind of bike you use also matters because of weight. Mine is like Lance Armstrongs bike but the cheap end a trek 370 with thin tires. Man guys, my rides are an adrenaline rush now because I ride my MB to work and back. One way is about 33 miles so about 66 miles total trip. Peaple just look at me like I'm crazy or amazed at the speed I'm going. I stress wearing helmets going at these speed even wearing a motorcycle helmet. And I give the mopeders a run for their money. My next add on is an engine sprocket with 11t. This will push me in the 50's and probably cruise at 45. I will finally catch this guy with a sooped up moped going 50 mph +. One last thing, I use premium unleaded gas with octane boost and 16:1 to 24:1 oil/gas mixture. If you got 16:1 [more oil in gas] lean out your idler screw, turn it clockwise for leaner gas and versa counter clockwise if you use 24:1+ [less oil in gas]. Guys/gals try these tinkering ideas and post your outcome...remember use helmets.
Hate to burst your bubble.... that mixture screw is only an idle speed adjustment and doesn't do anything but change idle speed when you turn it.
Two electrodes won't give more spark, just more places to jump spark to.
Boosting octane with these engines is a waste of time and money, since they don't have high enough compression to need anything higher than 87 octane.
Gearing to infinity? Since speed is a function of horsepower, not total gearing, and these engines only make about 2.5 horsepower, 3 at best, gearing higher has it's limits.
Finally, leaning out a mixture of 16:1 over 24:1 is bad advice, the 16:1 mixture is already leaner (more oil=less gas in the fuel to air mixture) than 24:1. Not to mention that 16:1 is ridiculously over oiled to begin with.
Two electrodes won't give more spark, just more places to jump spark to.
Boosting octane with these engines is a waste of time and money, since they don't have high enough compression to need anything higher than 87 octane.
Gearing to infinity? Since speed is a function of horsepower, not total gearing, and these engines only make about 2.5 horsepower, 3 at best, gearing higher has it's limits.
Finally, leaning out a mixture of 16:1 over 24:1 is bad advice, the 16:1 mixture is already leaner (more oil=less gas in the fuel to air mixture) than 24:1. Not to mention that 16:1 is ridiculously over oiled to begin with.
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Hate to burst your bubble.... that mixture screw is only an idle speed adjustment and doesn't do anything but change idle speed when you turn it.
This is correct Joe. I got stuck last night because my oil and gas mixture was too mush around 16:1. I tried numerous times, each time trying different methods of starting and I found the only way TO START and KEEP THE ENGINE GOING was to lean out the gas; therefore less oil in gas and air mixture better ignition.
Two electrodes won't give more spark, just more places to jump spark to.
I completely disagree. But I do agree with "just more places to jump spark..." equals to more power.
Boosting octane with these engines is a waste of time and money, since they don't have high enough compression to need anything higher than 87 octane.
You might be right on this but I like to think it give my engine more boost.
Gearing to infinity? Since speed is a function of horsepower, not total gearing, and these engines only make about 2.5 horsepower, 3 at best, gearing higher has it's limits.
"Gearing to infinity..." is probably true but trying is believing and there is a big difference from 44t to 27t in speed. Again please try it.
Finally, leaning out a mixture of 16:1 over 24:1 is bad advice, the 16:1 mixture is already leaner (more oil=less gas in the fuel to air mixture) than 24:1. Not to mention that 16:1 is ridiculously over oiled to begin with.
Refer to my first rebuttle.
Peaple trying is believe...isn't that what tinkering with these engines is all about?
This is correct Joe. I got stuck last night because my oil and gas mixture was too mush around 16:1. I tried numerous times, each time trying different methods of starting and I found the only way TO START and KEEP THE ENGINE GOING was to lean out the gas; therefore less oil in gas and air mixture better ignition.
Two electrodes won't give more spark, just more places to jump spark to.
I completely disagree. But I do agree with "just more places to jump spark..." equals to more power.
Boosting octane with these engines is a waste of time and money, since they don't have high enough compression to need anything higher than 87 octane.
You might be right on this but I like to think it give my engine more boost.
Gearing to infinity? Since speed is a function of horsepower, not total gearing, and these engines only make about 2.5 horsepower, 3 at best, gearing higher has it's limits.
"Gearing to infinity..." is probably true but trying is believing and there is a big difference from 44t to 27t in speed. Again please try it.
Finally, leaning out a mixture of 16:1 over 24:1 is bad advice, the 16:1 mixture is already leaner (more oil=less gas in the fuel to air mixture) than 24:1. Not to mention that 16:1 is ridiculously over oiled to begin with.
Refer to my first rebuttle.
Peaple trying is believe...isn't that what tinkering with these engines is all about?
Yes, I concur, changing the 16:1 to 24:1 will improve performance.
Still the idle screw is only called a mixture screw in some incorrect instructions. Turning it in will increase the idle because it opens the slide more.
Octane booster can cause an overly rich mixture to lean out, making it run better, but there are better (an cheaper) ways to correct the over rich condition.
Finally, going from a 44T to a 40T or even a 27 t will lower cruise rpm, and give a marginally hight top end speed, especially when going down hill or drafting (don't try that one at home kids) but as stated, ultimately, top speed is governed by horse power.
Are we on the same page now?
Still the idle screw is only called a mixture screw in some incorrect instructions. Turning it in will increase the idle because it opens the slide more.
Octane booster can cause an overly rich mixture to lean out, making it run better, but there are better (an cheaper) ways to correct the over rich condition.
Finally, going from a 44T to a 40T or even a 27 t will lower cruise rpm, and give a marginally hight top end speed, especially when going down hill or drafting (don't try that one at home kids) but as stated, ultimately, top speed is governed by horse power.
Are we on the same page now?
two things,
1. with the ignition on these engine any kind of platinum plug, multi prong plug or any of those fairly debatable upgrades is useless on these engines. if the coil isn't throwing the spark then its not going to be connecting with all the points. the most we can hope from with these coils is a spark that will bridge a decent gap.
people always have this idea that some how if they find the right plug its going to give an engine all this power. if there isnt enough spark being thrown in the first place then your just wasting money.
2. Octane booster is hard on any engine being that its normally an Alcohol based product and secondly if your not getting Detonation then you have no reason to run higher octane gas. in fact in most cases people who decide that they are going to dump some VP 110 into their car for the one day they go to the drag strip find that it actually slows their car down. this is true because all a higher octane number represents is how resistant to burning the gasoline is to make sure its not ignited by the cylinder pressure instead of the spark. so initially it will rob power if its not burning fast enough to get all the possible energy out of the fuel.
in a nut shell for optimum performance you want to run a fuel that will not detonate even under full load. if your running flat out on your engine and its not detonating then go down and Octane level, if its still not detonating then go down some more.
i could run a highstrung VW 1600 that was running at 10.5:1 compression and reved up to 6K without detonation on 89 octane so i doubt we need 91 in our engines let alone any kind of additive booster
1. with the ignition on these engine any kind of platinum plug, multi prong plug or any of those fairly debatable upgrades is useless on these engines. if the coil isn't throwing the spark then its not going to be connecting with all the points. the most we can hope from with these coils is a spark that will bridge a decent gap.
people always have this idea that some how if they find the right plug its going to give an engine all this power. if there isnt enough spark being thrown in the first place then your just wasting money.
2. Octane booster is hard on any engine being that its normally an Alcohol based product and secondly if your not getting Detonation then you have no reason to run higher octane gas. in fact in most cases people who decide that they are going to dump some VP 110 into their car for the one day they go to the drag strip find that it actually slows their car down. this is true because all a higher octane number represents is how resistant to burning the gasoline is to make sure its not ignited by the cylinder pressure instead of the spark. so initially it will rob power if its not burning fast enough to get all the possible energy out of the fuel.
in a nut shell for optimum performance you want to run a fuel that will not detonate even under full load. if your running flat out on your engine and its not detonating then go down and Octane level, if its still not detonating then go down some more.
i could run a highstrung VW 1600 that was running at 10.5:1 compression and reved up to 6K without detonation on 89 octane so i doubt we need 91 in our engines let alone any kind of additive booster
To Joe...yeah we're on the same page.
To runslikeapenguin...lets stay away from car tuning, too expensive for me but I what learned from it was by increasing the ignition output will increase torque and power. So that's why I installed a mallory power cell to increase the ignition capacity of my cdi and also use a better plug wire and plug to carry out a much stronger spark. AGAIN THIS IS WHAT MY EXPERIENCE HAS BEEN since I've tinkered with these MB engines.
To runslikeapenguin...lets stay away from car tuning, too expensive for me but I what learned from it was by increasing the ignition output will increase torque and power. So that's why I installed a mallory power cell to increase the ignition capacity of my cdi and also use a better plug wire and plug to carry out a much stronger spark. AGAIN THIS IS WHAT MY EXPERIENCE HAS BEEN since I've tinkered with these MB engines.
the ignition on our little engines is less than satisfactory in many ways. and all the normal upgrades just allow for the least amount of resistance and for parts that don't just break at random.
none of that effects how much spark the coil throws, it just reduces how much power is lost in the transfer. so if your coil isn't tossing hotter spark then any kind of supposed super spark plus is not going to add any horsepower.
like you said for the most part increasing ignition output is going to increase torque and power, and that's what im guessing you did with the Mallory upgrade.
just out of curiosity do you have a like or anything regarding the Mallory upgrade you did?
When I saw your bike riding in St Pete, it was quick for sure! Even with my big engine, I have to keep a good amount of throttle to hang with you! Seems like you got it tuned very well!
That stretch is bad azz!
You guys are all insane! Nitrous, 44t sprockets and such....
I may change my tune though after I get my bike running regularly. I had a 50cc scooter that topped out at 35 mph and that seemed plenty fast enough for me, and that bike weighed at least twice the weight of my bike. I can't imagine going faster than 30 mph on a bicycle...seems it would scare the crap outa me....
I may change my tune though after I get my bike running regularly. I had a 50cc scooter that topped out at 35 mph and that seemed plenty fast enough for me, and that bike weighed at least twice the weight of my bike. I can't imagine going faster than 30 mph on a bicycle...seems it would scare the crap outa me....
44 mph on flat road in 4th gear.
That is before I start looking into carb tuning, which I believe has the wrong fuel map curve from the factory. Going to change the jet and intake length/angle first. If that doesn't work, then I'm going with a Mikuni Carburetor.
'BrettMavrik
That is before I start looking into carb tuning, which I believe has the wrong fuel map curve from the factory. Going to change the jet and intake length/angle first. If that doesn't work, then I'm going with a Mikuni Carburetor.
'BrettMavrik
To runslikeapenguin, the mallory power cell upgrade was an I idea from my honda tuning days. I kept some parts for memory but decided to try it on my MB. Car tuning was just too expensive for me but MB tuning is within my means. Just got a new cns carb from sick bikes. I'm going to have some fitting problems. I probably need a 90 degree manifold from....any ideas?
Actuall I was thinking about buiding my own setup. I'm not expecting to gain a lot of performance I mainly woud build it for looks.
Have you seen one or used this type of setup?
Have you seen one or used this type of setup?
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