How do you start your engine with an SBP shifter?

silverbear

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Even though I'm in the middle of setting up SBP shift parts on my build (3 speed Elgin Velocipede 1934) I still don't understand how you start your engine. I'm using a PK-80 China Girl with manual clutch and a Sturmey Archer 3 speed internally geared rear hub.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you are no longer able to bump start it, is that right? If that's the case, how do you start the engine?

Second question... you are riding along and it is time to shift gears. Do you need to release the clutch when shifting or is it enough to just let off the gas a little, shift and then give it gas?

I'm trying to figure out my handlebar controls. I have an old three speed twist shifter I'd like to use rather than a thumb lever type. That would be on the left, throttle on the right. Drum brakes front and back, but I'd rather use separate levers in case something happens to the cable, lever or one brake. So one brake lever on the right and one on the left. I also have to have the clutch lever on the left. So that's two levers plus the twist shift to co-ordinate with the left hand. Right hand is busy with the throttle and right brake lever. So, it makes a difference if the clutch has to be disengaged in order to shift.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and offer some advice to a shift kit newbie. Maybe your answers will help someone else, too.
SB
 
The only way to start it is by pedaling like a kick starter! :(
You need to learn where that 'sweet spot' is on the choke so you can start it with only a kick or two. ;)
To shift, simply let off the throttle for a second.
As far as the brake levers... I love the 'dual pull' levers that both I & SBP sell... (I use them whenever I can & I've never had a problem with them).
 
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Venice hit the nail on the head. I use a dual pull lever too, never any issues with it. Unless your cables are 30 years old, you won't have to worry about it. You can tune each cable separately for dialing in how much one pulls over the other. I like about 80/20 Front/Rear.

The only time you'll need to pull the clutch is when you come to a stop. Don't forget to be in 1st gear when your slowing down. :p You'll get a feel for your shifting points and when to blip the throttle.

gl.
 
Thanks for your input, you guys. I have a dual pull lever I've never used. Maybe I'll give it a try. Good to know that I don't have to use the clutch each time I shift. I'm still not clear on how the kick start deal works, but trust you both that it does work. I assume you can pedal the bike with the clutch in. Still seems like you ought to be able to pedal it to start as you would without a shift kit, but I know nothing about this freewheel setup other than knowing I want one. Ha!

Last parts are ordered and should be here pretty soon. I placed the order this morning and it is already shipped. That's quick service!
SB
 
That link doesn't work and I couldn't find any videos of the starting process. I wish somebody would do one showing an engine being kick started. We all know the shifting part is cool. It's the starting that's a little worrisome. I've read that the slant head engines with higher compression can be hard to kick start. Being old and partly crippled I'm a little concerned about it. I guess I could change the head to a regular one if it is too hard for me.
SB
 
SB, you'll see what we're talking about when we say 'kick start' the first time you try to start it... It's really difficult to keep pedaling the engine over because the rear wheel only 'free-wheels' & isn't helping to turn the engine over. :(

Just remember what we said about using the choke to get it started quickly!! ;)
 
Does This link work for ya? He starts it around the 30s mark.

If the compression is too much for you, maybe add another head gasket till you get used to it. And take it out when you want the power back :)
 
Ah, the link works now. Last night it wouldn't, for me anyway. Yes, I see that it doesn't appear all that difficult. I'm still a pretty strong old fart! Ikindoit! Cool setup. I'm psyched!
SB
 
SB,
I find it easier to start on a slight downhill slope.
With the clutch pulled in, get peddling in 1st gear in a medium cadence.
When you get your dominant leg just to about the 2 o'clock position let the clutch out and
get the engine turning over. You'll be able to keep it turning over with both legs once you get it turning over fairly quickly.
This is when you'll get the chain to jump off it your alignment and tension to the front freewheel isn't "just right".

Once it fires up keep her going till you can safely reach down and push the choke lever back down. Practice finding the choke lever without looking down very long or you'll find that you've taken your eyes off of the road and that can be a bad thing.

It's a whole lot easier to start once the engine has warmed up. It seems to loosen up and start much more quickly, and with a lot less effort.

Just let off slightly when you shift, no clutch. You'll get the hang of it pretty quickly.

Have a blast.

Still rebuilding my Yamaha and riding the MB when time permits.

TiM
 
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I just watched that video... If your engine has any kind of real compression?, you won't be able to pedal it like that!
 
Tim,
Thanks for your description of how you do it and very good to hear from you. I imagine now that air conditioners are humming you're plenty busy at work. I hope there's still some time for fun.

Norm,
I imagine with the slant head and a new engine that mine will be more difficult to turn over. If need be I'll put a regular head on it and let the engine break in, then switch back to the slant head. We'll cross that bridge when we come to it. At least now I have a pretty clear picture of how it's done, thanks to you guys.
SB
 
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