High Idle Problems

So do you have the plastic cap looking thing in the intake inlet if not there’s you leak . I’ll post pictures of it.A lot of people don’t realize you need it.
 

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I'd say it's a small air leak at the carb/intake since this clone has no adjustability in an idle circuit and you aren't able to locate the area that's leaking a new carb is the best bet. The easiest and cheapest thing to try first is that O-ring seal at the intake connection but if you won't try that I'd suggest keeping the carb change very simple just a new carb & intake with air cleaner & appropriate gaskets at the carb/intake and intake/cylinder.

Rick C.
 
ok Thanks Rick I will have to try an o ring just need to find one first shouldnt cost me more than $5 and if that dosent work must be comming in throught the top case part somehow but I appreciate the help and will keep you updated if their was something to change

Thanks Rick
 
@indian22 Found the problem took the bike to the local mechanic and turns out theirs a tiny air leak where the carb connects but we fixed the idle by putting the cable through the spring unlike before but we got the idle control now :)
 
Good for you Rusty and the mechanic. Tiny leak is all it takes. Also the throttle cable is now routed correctly "through the spring" that's correct routing. One other thing for those who are following along on this thread and may encounter throttle control problems now or in the future. The sheath or throttle cable housing should not move at all when throttle is operated, only the inner cable moves. If the cable housing is cut to the proper length it won't move, but if it's just a little short it will. Both ends of the cable sheath need to "bottom out" butt up against the terminus at carb and throttle connection. Any movement of the sheath itself will cause erratic throttle operation and often make idle adjustment impossible to control with the adjustment nut at twist throttle & carb.

Now have fun with your bike Rusty!

Rick C.
 
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