Here I go again,Briggs build

[scratchbuilder]

I don't know what the frame is. With straight back drop outs, I couldn't pass it by.could use some help on what carb to run. I'm thinking pz19??. I was gonna section the frame for the m.mount....but repositioned the seatpost instead. Might have to go coaster brake. If you have coaster brake,appreciate your input on how they hold up.

 

[WECSOG]

I agree on the PZ19 carb. They work well on 5-10 hp Honda type engines, so should be a good choice for a Briggs 3-5 hp motor as well.
I think the coaster brake is fine as long as you also have a decent front brake.

Good looking frame.

 

[scratchbuilder]

Yeah,on the carb,I like the slide,rather then the butterfly. The fork I'll use will have both choices,disc or linear pull. I'm hoping someone can identify the frame, just to know what the hey it is. So far im into this for a whopping 8 bucks. The engine was 3. All dirty the clutch on it had years off rust. But striped it clean it. Honed the cylinder put her together and fired up,always a good sign. Thx!

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Super! Runs!

I welded on a coaster brake type frame at the rear wheel mounts for v-brakes that I had scavenged from another bike. This I use with the same on the front too. The pedals are gone and instead foot pegs, so technically it is a light weight off-road OHV CA legal reg motorcycle.

The pivot point for the brake parts were partly aluminum alloy. The center pin part was steel and able to be unscrewed and reused. Just the boss that I was going to transfer to the steel frame I was using was alloy. I could not weld alloy to steel. Instead I found a steel nut and welded it with some steel angle iron to my frame and it's been real good.

Just wet conditions mean rim brakes are not so good for short times till it dries.

Disks are up higher and don't get wet as easily.

Let see the process as it develops for your build. Just another tip my belt drive grabs well, but too steep a hill it may slip. If you go with chain, I was wondering about those clamp to hub, rather than rag joint. I made similar to a rag joint by using plywood attached to spokes but it was for a pulley and belt.

MT

 

[curtisfox]

That motor fits good, like it. Should be a awesome bike...............Curt

 

[scratchbuilder]

Yeah MT, I scavenge brake brackets too...got one good,one side not so good. That's why I'm thinking of trying coaster. The drop outs are for coaster,and in order to wide'n I'd probably have to heat,because the stays are bigger round than average. Soooo..I gotta find me a coaster wheel. Swap meet callin me!

 

[scratchbuilder]

Hey curt, I didn't expect another build so soon,but...yard sale! This guy had the frame, a S-jaguar $15, yeah I picked it up too; and the Briggs in the back yard. I'm gonna put 24" and see if a 26 crank will work out.

 

[silverbear]

Not all coaster brakes are equal. The ones coming out of China in outlets like Walmart are to be avoided, in my opinion. Poor materials, too few bearings often coming without grease. I like the old American made Bendix which are easy to come by. Avoid the Mexican made Bendix hubs. Nice project shaping up.
SB

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I have what is really a front wheel hub that I use on the back that is heavy duty. It is since I don't have a pedal crank anymore and have front an rear V-brakes.

The rear stay on one side I did this to make clearance for a replacement sheave that was wider:

First I welded some 7/16" steel in a couple of layers to the outside of the stay to make it as strong as the stay as it were. Then I ground away half of the stay diameter. There was mo warpage as how the order of the modifying process was done.

I have to believe I added enough strengthening as it is over kill. I have to admit though the looks of it are not show piece type.

MT

 

[scratchbuilder]

SB,who has the American Bendix? Here's a mock up,with 'rear end' suspension.lol. Don't know if its a go or not. Sure be comfy.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Looks like a good start! Those are pedal cranks that extend to clear engine drive stuff I guess.

 

[scratchbuilder]

What, no seat post??? A little blurry pic of what happens when I start choppin...put the cut off wheel down and step away from the table!. Don't know how or what shape the new seat post will be.

 

[curtisfox]

Wats o woom now! Love it looks KOOL, sure made a difference..............Curt

 

[silverbear]

Regarding the Bendix hub. I don't know if they are still being made or not. I get mine from 1950's through 1960's fat tire cruisers and middleweights. Probably on 1970's bikes and maybe later, too, but I'm most familiar with 60's bike and older. Easy to find on ebay and there are schematics which can be downloaded from the net. Parts are still available, but you probably won't need parts for one. Avoid the models made in Mexico as they were not made as well as the USA hubs.
SB

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Would you be welding in another tube vertically somewhere to replace the seat tube that came out?

Just thinking of strength of the frame. Some builds on motorcycles actually use the engine as connecting points between other frame point for strength.

I know it is just coming together, and the gas tank I see with the magnets for holding to ready welding, is I think the one used with the Vacu-jet Briggs carb.

A gravity feed carb is what I changed to and got a plastic tank (not to rust ever) and mounted it on the top bar with brackets.

The top bar for that frame I have seen some actually make a gas tank out of, but I've never been so crafty.

My gas tank is actually a plastic tank from a Briggs lawn mover vertical shaft type engine. I got it just cause it was a gravity feed type and cheap on Amazon and I had a gift cert. There are some nice tanks to be bought I was too late to find out. The tank does get me about 15 miles. The way it is mounted could have allowed the last bit of gas to be used, but past a point it gulps air and will stall out. I keep enough in it and also carry in a pack extra one or two bottles to refill if I'm going that far and need it.

Briggs bike, yaaaah!!!

MT

 

[scratchbuilder]

The seat tube might be replaced by arc bent handle bar stock matching the front of the rear tire, and placing one on each side at the beginning of the seat&chain stay. Gas tank mock up is just a thought. I wouldn't even attempt to turn the top tube into a tank, above my skill set! Heck I just slap on a rear rack and tank... Although, I'd like not to on this build. So maybe a set up like I had the the ole 'orange crate'.

 

[scratchbuilder]

Hey SB, I found me a fork brace/brakearm holder on an old fork in the storage shed. Now I can use the wheel in the pic's. I'm trying to use parts I have, which is why I'm using pillow blocks. I'm going to keep my eye open at swap meets for old Bendix wheels, so as to not pass em up. I wouldn't look twice at coaster brake wheels. I will now that I know what to look for! Thx!

 

[scratchbuilder]

Found this name on the bb..anyone got a clue to who made the bike??

 

[scratchbuilder]

Getting there . The only thing new on this build so far, the carb & filter. If anyone has knowledge of manifold length, I could use it. Engine is 3hp & carb is pz 19. Not sure about the the diff. seat tube, I like the curve though.Happy New Year to all, and to all a goodnight...

 

[curtisfox]

You might find some info on AGK site, i know Jr Dragsters run one about 5" long. Suppose to improve the low to mid range. Some guys have used handle bar tube for intake,find big washers that fit over the tubing, and then just drill to fit engine. Like the curve and should be good. Happy New Year to you ...............Curt