Handle brakes vs pedal brakes?

C

chapspeterson

New Member
I am having to purchase a cruiser bike with the brakes on the handles. Does anyone else use these types of brakes and not the pedal brakes? Do they work well, do I need to purchase any special equipment to make sure they are working properly?

Thanks
 
Assuming you're using a 2-stroke engine kit; the kit has a clutch lever that mounts on the handlebars (where the left brake lever is).

Many builders use a 'dual pull' brake lever so that you don't have any issues with two levers on the left side.

I prefer to use a rear coaster (pedal back) brake because you'll have a better selection of sprocket / hub adapters.
 
Venice Motor Bikes said:
Assuming you're using a 2-stroke engine kit; the kit has a clutch lever that mounts on the handlebars (where the left brake lever is).

Many builders use a 'dual pull' brake lever so that you don't have any issues with two levers on the left side.

I prefer to use a rear coaster (pedal back) brake because you'll have a better selection of sprocket / hub adapters.
Click to expand...

whoops- new to this forum. I am using a 4 stroke engine kit, this is the exact one:

https://www.amazon.com/4-Stroke-Pet...eway&sprefix=4+str,aps,157&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
 
Your engine has a centrifugal clutch, so you don't need a clutch lever, so no problems with having extra levers on the handlebars.

If you're buying a cheap cruiser, it'll probably have cheap brakes. Some of these work well enough, some don't. You'll know as soon as you ride the bike (before installing the engine.)

If they don't stop well under low speed pedal power, they won't stop at all with the added weight and speed of an engine.

Fortunately, they're easy and relatively cheap to upgrade.
 
It would be nice if every potential motor bicyclist installing a kit engine, would consider the quality and stopping performance of their bicycle when purchasing it.

Coaster brakes are not a great brake for engine assisted bicycles.

Back in the early years of MTB's, many off road bicyclists rode with single speed coasterbrakes for their ruggedness. Unfortunately they had to rebuild their hubs on especially long downhills.
There is a trail on Mt. Tam in Marin County called Repack because it burns up the grease in coasterbrake hubs. I attended the 2018 Seattle Dead Baby Downhill race last year. There were a few smoking coasterbrakes which lost nearly all of their braking by the time they reached the bottom.

Choose wisely.
 
I totally disagree... Coaster brakes are fine as long as you disassemble them & add lots of quality grease... I've been using them on my motorized bikes since 2007.
Even a brand new coaster brake should be re-packed with grease because the factories only use the bare minimum of grease when they put them together.

It's also important to mention that no matter what rear brake you choose, you should always have some kind of front brake on your bike, (because it does most of the stopping)! ;)
 
To the O.P. Get yourself a front drum from Husky Bicycle. Expensive but bullet proof. Find 'em here.
http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=hb&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=500-219
Venice and Curt I too concur. I run a Worksman drum on Front and a Shimano Coaster Brake Rear. Maintenance every year / when wheel is removed is important. I load up an oral syringe with High Temp red sticky grease, then loosen up the sprocket side of hub just enough to insert the syringe as far to the opposite side as it will go. Then just empty the syringe as I slowly back it out. No disassembly required.. since 2012. Never an issue or coaster brake failure.
 
Welcome chapspeterson,
The forumites who posted above will do good by you.
My 49cc Huffy build included a front rim brake to augment the rear coaster brake. Its just common sense. Safety first.
Tom from Rubicon
 
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