It seems like nothing with these motor kits is truly bolt on and go.....I usually spend twice as much time as I think it will take to get things done.
Grubee Starfire SuperRat Engine Kit!
- Thread starter Vistaman73
- Start date
if the grubee site is telling the truth the EPA made them epoxy the screws at specific settings so that we couldn't mess with em later, how that would help the environment idk, but thats what there site says if i remember right.
mine had no problem turning though i noticed a little bit of crusty glue coming out of it but that was it lol.
I seem to remember reading something about how to dissolve that gunk somewhere around here. With the small bottle of Everclear I keep in my tool box to clean parts...also comes in real handy at the end of a rough day.
I have spent my whole weekend just modding the shifter kit to work with this motor. i dont know if the motor has changed at all since the last version or if these kits just werent that well thought out. i hope this motor was worth the effort. any suggestions how to mount this motor to an oversized downtube. my down tube is much larger then the mount on the motor. i thought about drilling the frame but i then wont be able to get the adjustment i need for the shifter kit.
Sick has an oversized mount which means not having to drill into the frame. Looks like a great way to mount the engine for about $15. Here's the link to take a look at it:
Sick Bike Parts
Sick Bike Parts
That may be better in this case. The super rat has a wider front mount so I don't know if the SBK mounts would fit the engine.
I've had my GT5 Super Rat going for a few days now. I know she's still getting broke in, but Ive already switched head gaskets, had some blow by between jug and head, sealed up the crappy adapter between the carb an intake. But she seems to want to bog at high r's and after you let her idle and want to get back into it. Today I tried the middle setting on the carb clip, even worse, so I went back to factory 2nd setting. Then I switched to the spare spark plug and put about an ounce of octane boost in to get me to around 93 (non-ethanol) octane 25:1 mix, helped, but still has a bog to it. Everything is tight, no noticeable leaks with ether, old plug was nice chocolate brown. What gives? Is she still just getting broken in? My buddy said he could never get the new 2010 CNS carb to work right on his GT5 66cc and went back to stock. Also, there was already a good amount of carbon on top of the piston. Should I clean it, and if so, with what. I know thats a lot to decipher, but I appreciate any suggestions.
I have all the same problems as you except for the blow by. I thought it was the crappy carb so I changed it out with the speed carb and same issues. It seems like everything is super tight in there. I sure hope it gets better soon.
Hmmm, I wonder if the ignition or the angle fire head may be to blame if you have another carb and the exact same issue with it. Wish I had a center fire head, it'd fit on my cruiser. I really liked this link too about ignition. I sent him an email.
Ignition Timing Changes for the Chinese 48cc HT engine
Ignition Timing Changes for the Chinese 48cc HT engine
What gets me is that it seems to be running rich, or rather, loading up. If you've tried another carb with no different results, I'm thinking it must be the ignition. Thursday, I'll have an NGK copper core, that will eliminate the plug. Do you have an old style coil and pickup? That would be a great way to eliminate the ignition, although I hope that guy gets back to me and we can get that setup on our SR's! Hopefully friday, weather permitting, I'm gonna go see a friend who has a 48 and older 66. I'm sure he'd let me do some part swapping to help troubleshoot this. Maybe more people will soon get the Super Rat and we can get this issue licked. I think I might start a new thread called: GT5 Super Rat bogging issues.
I have had the same problems with a new rat engine.It was hard to start and would bog real bad. I got it to run the best when I went to a larger jet and raised the needle to the top.It still wasnt right and the top of the piston was black.That is when I checked the timing and discovered it was 43 degrees advanced!!.I reset the timing to 22 degrees and it came alive.It would start right up and not bog at all. So I would check the timing first thing on the rat motors.The cns carb worked with the larger jet but I think a thinner needle would help the midrange a bit.
The flywheel is rotated on the crank. To retard the timing it needs to be moved counterclockwise.First you need to check the timing to see where it is at.I used a dial indicator to find tdc,marked the flywheel and case at that point and then ran the engine with a timing light hooked up and checked where it was firing.I marked this point and then used a degree wheel to check the advance. i removed the key so I could rotate the flywheel and then bolted it on with the star washer at 22 degrees advanced.I ran it like this 3 or 4 times moving the flywheel alittle in both directions to find where it ran the best. Turns out it liked the 22 degrees the best.I was lucky in that it turns out I moved the flywheel 1/2 the width of the key so I was able to buy an offset key that worked great.Manic Mechanic is making an adjustable flywheel for the standard ht motors but the flywheels are different.The timing has to be right or you will never get it to run right. From now on I will check the timing first.It seems everyone of these ht engines are different.
I think you are really on to something here. I've got a timing light somewhere. It makes sense that the timing is advanced too much for decent top end. you actually want to retard a bit at real high r's on a 2 stroke. Maybe she could actually spark all that fuel the CNS is delivering then. It doesn't surprise me there are problems. These super rats are pretty new, and not many people have messed with the internal CDI yet. Ima take your advice and run with it. I woll post any positive or negative results. Thanks!
I rode the bike some more today and it is really starting to improve. Now, the engine feels more like my other bikes did at break in. 
Hi New to forum, have new cylinder58cc looking for intake manifold with 40mm stud spacing . Thanks
