good kit prep tips?

p_lewis1016

p_lewis1016

New Member
Hello,

I'm going to probably be getting my engine kit before my bike is ready for it to be put on, and I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what I should do before I even worry about running and mounting the engine, like prep work and tips to make sure when I put it on it will actually run and I won't have to mess with it as much on the bike.

I don't really have any experience with engines, so any and all things you might find as common sense I'm sure I wouldn't even think of, so please post anything you can think of.
 
spend some time around these forums and just read other posts that people have posted so you can get an idea of some of the things that you might need to do. When you do get you kit installed after you run it for a bit you should look at your spark plug and see what color the bottom portion is, to see if you are running to rich or to lean depending on the color of it then you would know how to move the c-clip on the carb to make the fuel the correct amount. white is to lean, brownish just right, black running to rich. If you are running to rich of a mix you want to raise the clip one notch and if you are running to len then lower it a notch, run your bike for a little while and check the plug again.

Also getting the motor to idle properly with the idle screw.

Make sure their are no air leak with the carb mounting flange or the exhaust to the motor some rtv silicon can fix it put a thin layer on the gasket both side and let dry.

Make sure you wire it correctly. blue to blue, black to black do not use white wire. Kill switch black to black and the other wire to blue.

Take your time installing the motor, if you need to remove a link in the chain for a proper fit the you would need to.

Get some extra 415 master links in case yours fails.

Their is alot of good reading here spend a few hour's / days reading posts and before you know it you too will know alot about this stuff.
 
Um, Vibration is my worst peeve. I recomend using something between the frame and the mounts that is able to absorb some of the Vibes. The thing is you need to let us know the Bike you wanna put it on, or at least a general idea ie...Beach, cruiser, mtn bike, because that is what really makes the difference. Other than that check out some performance mods and stuff. But the white wire is OK to use for acessories, I use mine for lights, hopefully soon enough I'll have a full setup for charging a battery too!
 
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yeah dont forget rubber between the engine mounts and frame,it'll be easier to add when putting engine on bike rather than later.
 
wow, what quick and good responses. thanks a lot. I look through the forums a lot, and I've been looking, I was just seeing if anyone would say something I haven't seen yet.

Any suggestions on what kind of rubber I should use between my mounts? I'd like to avoid having to buy anything, would old inner tubes be sufficient? if not just let me know.

the bike I'm using is an OLD OLD OLD cruiser, a tokyo katakura silk men's cruiser. seems to be built out of some pretty good steel, either that or just too much because it weighs a lot more than other cruisers I've messed with. The frame will fit the standard mounts, its not all beefy like the newer ones.

It has a 6 volt headlight I believe, which is what the white wire puts out right? it has a generator that runs on the wheel, which I might end up using instead of the wiring solution in case I want to ride a while without the engine running.

once again thank you guys for all of the help.
 
Ok there's a huge disagreement in the white wire. In the mag's that come with the HT engines. (the old russian engines are different) If you ground out the white wire it kills the power output of the blue wire. Not by shorting it out but by killing the field. So "in my opinion" any draw on the white wire has to start killing the output of the blue. Lowering the voltage of the blue will overwork the cdi plus give you a weaker spark. Now using the blue to your kill switch. Again "in my opinion" you are running a pretty high voltage wire thru what is usually a pretty junky grounding button. Where the white wire is only 6v. I know either way will kill the motor. I have my kill switch directly to white and to black, black also to the black cdi. No trying to get a ground thru the frame. Working good for 800 miles so far. Also how the suppliers say to do it. As far as the other stuff? Use a stud/bolt upgrade kit or take a couple trips to the hardware store will save alot of greif down the road. I also use a good quality tank petcock. Leaking gas sucks.
 
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Junster said:
As far as the other stuff? Use a stud/bolt upgrade kit or take a couple trips to the hardware store will save alot of greif down the road. I also use a good quality tank petcock. Leaking gas sucks.
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where can I get a stud/bolt upgrade kit? would I have to get it from my dealer, or are they a universal size? What about fuel filters. and the petcock to? just anything that works well?
 
Hey Sick Bike Parts has all that stuff,check it out.David They are on the right side of the page.
 
p_lewis1016 said:
wow, what quick and good responses. thanks a lot. I look through the forums a lot, and I've been looking, I was just seeing if anyone would say something I haven't seen yet.

Any suggestions on what kind of rubber I should use between my mounts? I'd like to avoid having to buy anything, would old inner tubes be sufficient? if not just let me know.

the bike I'm using is an OLD OLD OLD cruiser, a tokyo katakura silk men's cruiser. seems to be built out of some pretty good steel, either that or just too much because it weighs a lot more than other cruisers I've messed with. The frame will fit the standard mounts, its not all beefy like the newer ones.

It has a 6 volt headlight I believe, which is what the white wire puts out right? it has a generator that runs on the wheel, which I might end up using instead of the wiring solution in case I want to ride a while without the engine running.

once again thank you guys for all of the help.
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Yes a few layers would work 1/8" thick abouts so when you tighten everything it collapses thinner.
 
p_lewis1016 said:
where can I get a stud/bolt upgrade kit? would I have to get it from my dealer, or are they a universal size? What about fuel filters. and the petcock to? just anything that works well?
Click to expand...

Yeah I almost forgot that the petcocks I've gotten so far with these really stink, any motorcycle shop should have some or sick bike parts on the page here too. Yeah like reg said the tubing works very well actually and it's easy to work with and manipulate. I actually ended up using household foam rubber weather stripping, but mine is far from the standard set up. Definately regrease and pack all your bearings on a bike like that( I would probably try for some new ones ). I agree that if there is already a generator set up for the light and it works then use it
 
TerrontheSnake said:
Yeah I almost forgot that the petcocks I've gotten so far with these really stink, any motorcycle shop should have some or sick bike parts on the page here too. Yeah like reg said the tubing works very well actually and it's easy to work with and manipulate. I actually ended up using household foam rubber weather stripping, but mine is far from the standard set up. Definately regrease and pack all your bearings on a bike like that( I would probably try for some new ones ). I agree that if there is already a generator set up for the light and it works then use it
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sweet, sounds simple enough. I figured I would need to replace a few things, and its not like they really cost much anyways. I already cleaned, greased, and packed my bearings, they're running nice and smooth. I decided to use the generator AND this battery pack I made ( just a 4 AA pack with an on/off switch from radio shack, cost maybe $2) to power it because I don't think the generator was meant to handle 25+ mph. I run the generator for riding without the motor, and the battery pack with the motor just in case I have to cut the motor, the lights won't go out too. That would be quite scarry. it works really well, and is pretty well hidden, helping with the retro look of my bike.
 
After getting my engine the other day I looked in the Air intake and there was something obstructing it. I took the elbow off the engine and when the pipe was cast at the factory they left a lot of material in there and air flow was difficult at best. Last thing you want is vibration to break some of this off in the pipe and send it right into the piston, 5 min with a dremel and it was good to go.
 
reg454 said:
Yes a few layers would work 1/8" thick abouts so when you tighten everything it collapses thinner.
Click to expand...

If you can find a harder type of rubber, you'd be better off. Too soft a compound lets the engine move too much and that causes other problems.

Try to find some lead sheet to use, works great! (can be found as the boot for sewer vents on older houses.)
 
Bikeguy Joe said:
If you can find a harder type of rubber, you'd be better off. Too soft a compound lets the engine move too much and that causes other problems.

Try to find some lead sheet to use, works great! (can be found as the boot for sewer vents on older houses.)
Click to expand...

Wut he said! The lead is better...
 
Ya until somebody makes poly bushings for that like 2door made I think metal is best too. I used aluminum sheeting. It was very easy to cut with snips and bend to fit with my fingers.
 
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