Friction Drive VS Chain... which one is better?

[motorbiker]

Question: Friction Drive VS Chain... which one is better?

Answer: Chain Drive....period!

My Staton friction drive kit is less than 12lbs motor and all.

Can ride the bike with it flipped up and it's just like a regular bike.

Get tired and run the motor for a while.

Run out of gas, no problem. Pedal to a gas station.

I really like a setup that is easy to pedal when it is out of gas !

 

[motorbiker]

Friction drive needs to be straight lined up.

After getting it straight you can tack weld the steel bracket to the steel bicycle frame and it will stay straight.

 

[cannonball2]

The Math supports my Testing. Using a 1.25 inch roller and a Titan XC50, I can cruise 24-26 mph and my top speed will be around 32mph. With the 2 stroke and same size roller, I can hit 36-38 mph. But of course.. The 2 stroke can scream compared to the 4 stroke. Cruise on the 2 stroke is 32-34 mph all day... Using the rear mount chain drive, you can do what ever gearing you like. Since the Chain is more efficent, you can get more speed and power. The Friction Drive is more solid and more connected. I use police tires From Kenda, normally I would get 1,300 miles from a tire. With friction drive rollers I use, I will get 1000 miles or so. So the rollers we use do cut down on miles but not a whole lot. I have never experienced any tire shredding that others have in here but then again, I have only used the rollers I have made and use and these work well wet or dry. Chances are, your tire will slip on the pavement before they will slip against my roller. Also. The Friction Drive is the easist to install by far, requiring only a few tools and 45min to an hour and then you are flying !! And the connection between rider, bike and road is superior !! It is the best feeling of any setup I have ever ridden. Precise, tight, and confidence inspired. The chain drive is harder to install, requires chain maintenance and also install savvay to align. But.. The chain drive is much more efficent and for those that have a need for speed the way to go. Chain drive also works well in cruddy areas where mud, snow, and other elements are in the way and need to be driven through without concern. The rear mount chain drive is much eaiser to install than any In frame mount and requires only a couple of hours to install. Both chain and friction have superior attributes. For novices and experts alike, the Friction Drive is a great way to go !! The rear mount chain drive is a great way to go for those wanting the most speed and power. Also. The chain drive is all that can work for some bikes like recumbents and other where the frame will not allow for a Press Roller Fitting. Enjoy the ride...

There it is in a nutshell gentlemen, and very well said. I think we all choose what we want in an MB, me I pertty much have the range, belt, chain, FD. I have a preference to FD now. Doesnt mean Im through with chain drive. I ride motorcycles almost exclusively for transportation, so when it comes to an MB I like the other end of the speed range easing along in the low 20s, slow enough to look at stuff. It is surprising to me how the same road is a different world @20 vs 60. Anyway you positive driven, highly efficient all weather, high speed chain drivers rip it up! Just dont think us FDers are Neanderthals be we like to see two wheels rub together. We are all MBers first and that a brotherhood in itself.

 

[happyvalley]

Staton Inc Friction Drive w the Subaru 35cc.....I am very happy w my kit/engine

So I guess the real question in your thread title.... Friction Drive VS Chain.......is not which is better but which one suits you.
Like an old friend of mine used to always say "In life there are trade offs, the trick is getting what's right for you at any particular time and place."

 

[kerf]

So I guess the real question in the thread title.... Friction Drive VS Chain.......is not which is better but which one suits you.
Like an old friend of mine used to always say "In life there are trade offs, the trick is getting what's right for you at any particular time and place."

I agree completely with your views but alas I fear those word will ring hollow for those who have become entrenched with a single narrow view. The good news is, they won't stop the rest of us from trying new things that are sure to slap a smile on the ol mug.

I suddenly feel the need for a ride and I don't even know which bike I'll take. Guess I'll surprise myself.

 

[Mike B]

I don't want to win any races.

I don't even want to race.

I don't care who comes in first on race day.

Racing is dangerous -

 

[NEAT TIMES]

Mike b

you have aged way too fast, or am seeing things ? Lol.

Ron

 

[Mike B]

I am even older than my "Wilson" pic which I did a while back.

I'm 56. The last one was me at 10.

Gonna have to do an MB avatar pic.

 

[scotto-]

I don't want to win any races.

I don't even want to race.

I don't care who comes in first on race day.

Racing is dangerous -

I want to race....I love to race race....racing is fun and dangerous.

Who ever comes in first wins.....winning is also fun.

Racing and riding are what I love....building race machines too. Is racing just for kids? This 53 year old kid thinks so! Yes, racing can be dangerous, but everyone knows that. Let's race!



friction is the enemy of all racers and riders.....friction kills (engines)

 

[cannonball2]

Friction makes stuff go to, Grease your clutch.

 

[scotto-]

Friction makes stuff go to, Grease your clutch.

Thanks fer remindin me, I'll go oil my clutch right now....

 

[banzo]

I'm considering the same kit. What I don't understand is when the engine is off, is the roller just "freewheeling" or do you have resistance from the engine being engaged? Is it "OK" then to open the clutch and lock it open to allow the roller to freewheel?

 

[gobigkahuna]

I'm considering the same kit. What I don't understand is when the engine is off, is the roller just "freewheeling" or do you have resistance from the engine being engaged? Is it "OK" then to open the clutch and lock it open to allow the roller to freewheel?

Which kit are you talking about, the Staton Friction kit? If so, you've got two basic "modes" (and other FD are probably similar):

First is with with the FD set so the roller isn't touching the tire. In this case there is no additional drag on the wheel and it's just like pedaling your bike without a FD at all, except for the additional 12 lbs weight of the kit.

Next is with the FD set so the roller is pressing against the tire and the motor is running. In this case there is some drag (the amount of which depends on how hard the roller is pressing against the tire) while the engine is idling or off. It's certainly not as much as it would be if the clutch were engaged, but it's more than I'd want to pedal on a regular basis.

 

[banzo]

You answered my question about "neutral." Your other arguments are hard to contest. Have you ridden in wet weather yet?

 

[banzo]

Which kit are you talking about, the Staton Friction kit? If so, you've got two basic "modes" (and other FD are probably similar):

First is with with the FD set so the roller isn't touching the tire. In this case there is no additional drag on the wheel and it's just like pedaling your bike without a FD at all, except for the additional 12 lbs weight of the kit.

Next is with the FD set so the roller is pressing against the tire and the motor is running. In this case there is some drag (the amount of which depends on how hard the roller is pressing against the tire) while the engine is idling or off. It's certainly not as much as it would be if the clutch were engaged, but it's more than I'd want to pedal on a regular basis.

I'm considering the Staton FD kit with the 7/8" roller [I'm >#200]. I'm also upgrading my standard 9-spd to an 18-spd pedal to encourage exercise! I mostly want the engine for when I'm beat or for climbing hills. I live in the Shenandoah Valley so there are lots of hills! With a 52T vs 46T sprocket I'll be able to pedal some of them more easily! Speed isn't a factor. I'm on blood thinners so crashing is a definite "NO!"

A competitor of Staton has a "motor-on-the-fly" setup that has bearings on only one side of the drive roller. Unbalanced rollers make me think of early engine or bearing failure. I do like their ability to disengage the roller without stopping the bike to raise the engine! Seems no one makes a freewheeling drive cog [I forget the special name for it.]

 

[gobigkahuna]

No, not yet. We haven't gotten any rain in a long while (too long in fact, we're having a drought here) and I don't plan on riding in the rain anyways.

 

[gobigkahuna]

From what I've seen, the Staton and DAX FD's are pretty close to being equal competitors. In some ways I would have liked the DAX FD, but in others I'm glad I got the Staton.

My next bike (sheesh, I'm already thinking about it!) will be an 18+ speed mountain bike with an electric friction drive. I'm sold on friction drives as being the easiest / cleanest way to install. I do miss the silence of pedaling and the ability to ride on bike trails when I'm running the motor. The Subaru 4 cycle is pretty quiet for a motor, but I kind of like being able to ride down a path and surprise the rabbits as I come up on them. I think an electric drive might be a good compromise.

 

[happyvalley]

A competitor of Staton has a "motor-on-the-fly" setup that has bearings on only one side of the drive roller. Unbalanced rollers make me think of early engine or bearing failure. I do like their ability to disengage the roller without stopping the bike to raise the engine!

The 'shift on the fly' set-up is the Dimension Edge FD. I've had several and there is nothing inherently unbalanced with their design. The engine bolts independently to the channel housing solidly like most FDs, then engages the 78mm clutch drum and shaft which is supported by two load bearings. One very nice feature is it takes about a minute to change rollers, and the kits come with 6 different sizes from 1" to 1.75" made from different materials including an aggregate for wet weather.

I agree about freewheeling ability and it's one of the things, along with light weight and low impact on the original functionality of the bicycle, I've sought to incorporate when considering power assist. The DE set-up does an admirable job with this letting the cyclist dis/engage from the seat...... though to be fair other FDs are not that much more troublesome requiring only a quick dismount to do so.

 

[NEAT TIMES]

Am hoping "bike motor parts.com" will have parts for sale again near end of this month. The dual shaft housing (sold separately for $49.) is such a versitile system. Can be friction drive, chain final drive or 2 belt drive.

Mounts on most any bicycle..

Ron

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I've built several friction drives and a Staton chain drive. My latest commuter is a Tanaka 47R engine with Scooterguy center frame mount and shift kit. It is my favorite setup. The rear tire drops out easily without bothering the engine drivetrain, and the bike is better balanced than my rear-engined MB. The shift kit is the key to utilizing the two-stroke's narrow power range. The only drawback is engine spatter onto the rider and exhaust burns when riding with shorts(so now I wear jeans).

I ride to work every day, rain or shine. Friction drive was **** on wet roads and steep hills.

I have had the most flat tires with friction drive than any other member here.

After a year with chain drive/shift kit, I have yet to get a flat.

If I had my druthers, it'd be chain drive with shift kit, chain drive with NuVinci hub, chain drive, then friction drive.