first build

T

Toothy

New Member
Well here she is....thanks again for the help folks. BTW....my bicycle chain is really loose but it looks like removing one link will be too tight. Cant get my head around it.
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Toothy,
I can't tell from your photos but do you have adjustment in your drop-outs to tighten the pedal chain? Does the bike have a derailer? If it is a single speed bike there should be a way to adjust the pedal chain tension. I see you're using a tensioner on the engine side so you have adjustment there.
Nice build, by the way. Congratulations.

Tom
 
Hey Tom,
The wheel is pushed all the way up in the drop outs. I guess in need to lower the wheel, remove a link and then push back up till tight?
 
Toothy said:
Hey Tom,
The wheel is pushed all the way up in the drop outs. I guess in need to lower the wheel, remove a link and then push back up till tight?
Click to expand...
If the drop-outs are horizontal then moving the axle 'back' will tighten the chain. If the chain is the original one I'm not clear on why it should be loose.
Is it a single speed bike or does it have external gears (multiple rear sprockets) or a cassette? If it has a multi-speed hub, internal gears, then the chain tension should be adjustable by moving the wheel back.

Tom

EDIT: Just thought about this. Could the frame have been for gears and have drop-outs that are not horizontal and you have installed a single speed or internally geared hub? Bikes with derailers and cassettes usually don't have horizontal drop-outs because the derailer takes up the chain slack.
 
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Some people set the engine drive chain up so that a tensioner isn't needed and then use the tensioner on the peddle side chain since it is only used for peddle starting engine and for applying the rear coaster brake if the wheel has one.

Just another idea that could be a fix for you.

Map
 
We'll I had a major scare and not sure if I've damaged the engine. I had the chain bind up in the clutch / drive sprocket and lock up the back tire while underway. I left about a 10 ft skid mark and was happy not to hit the dirt. I had a long walk home and was super bummed. It turns out that after shortening the peddle chain and adjusting the wheel in the frame it worked itself loose dropping out of position and creating excess slack. The chain got caught around the sprocket and scared the life out of me. I may need to add a tensioner to the other side too. I guess the chain stretched as I've heard they do. I hope the clutch is not damaged.
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Yeah, that will give you a oh *&^% moment!
The good news is that the sprocket, clutch and crankshaft gear are all located by a soft metal key.... for this exact reason. If anything in the drive line locks up unexpectedly the soft keys are designed to shear rather than have something strip or snap.
 
GearNut said:
Yeah, that will give you a oh *&^% moment!
The good news is that the sprocket, clutch and crankshaft gear are all located by a soft metal key.... for this exact reason. If anything in the drive line locks up unexpectedly the soft keys are designed to shear rather than have something strip or snap.
Click to expand...
Thanks Gnut,
Should I just get it set up and test it out or pull stuff apart.....don't want to do that or course.
 
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Get the chain unbound and tensioned properly and try to ride it. If something did get whacked internally you will know, then fix it.

Also, be careful with that chain tensioner. They have a nasty reputation of getting pushed inwards and into the rear wheel's spokes.

Here is a thread concerning tensioners that are much safer. I linked to the style that I made for my Atlas build, but I recommend reading the whole thread.
http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=355603&postcount=41

Also, I HIGHLY recommend NOT drilling any holes in the frame as some have suggested. A hole creates a weak spot that can easily propagate into a cracked frame.

Here is the whole thread http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=2063
 
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