Engine squeaking problems

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by MadC, Sep 25, 2010.

  1. MadC

    MadC New Member

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    Hey guys,

    I've been riding my engine bicycle for a few months now and lately I've noticed a squeaking noise from the engine when I apply throttle. I start the engine by peddling and as it starts it squeaks for a few seconds... Once I get going the squeak stops, maybe because the engine is heated a bit... I tried oiling the chain and the sprocket on the engine, no change..

    Should I oil inside engine? and where?

    anybody else have this problem?


    Cheers
     
  2. Mac

    Mac New Member

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    MadC.
    My PK80 made a "squeaking" noise when the head gasket was on the way out, sounds like a "squeak", more like a whistle though... Check the torque on the head bolts. Could also be a clutch noise, see if it changes with the clutch in or out. My bet is the head gasket/loose. torque 10-12ftlbs. Good luck

    Mac
     
  3. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    If the squeak goes away after you get rolling, it sounds like your clutch pucks are glazed. Check your head for any leaking though, just in case. If your heads clean, you could pop out your pucks and give the back a quick sanding with 320'ish paper.
     
  4. MadC

    MadC New Member

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    I have to apologize because I'm no expert on engines. Waht are pucks? and the head is the bolts on top right? because they are tight, not wet.
     
  5. killercanuck

    killercanuck New Member

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    By pucks, I mean your clutch pads, a friction material used to engage the motor to the flywheel. About your head, if it was shot, you'd see residue around the outside of the cylinder under the head. Check your whole top-end for black crud seeping out.

    Clutch:
    Have a look at this:
    http://motorbicycling.com/f30/animated-view-motorized-bicycle-clutch-assembly-8939.html#post86495

    And read through Norm's rebuild(note-you don't have to take the little sprocket off to get at the clutch, he just shows how its done)
    http://motorbicycling.com/f4/bicycle-engine-clutch-222.html

    If you do disassemble, search for "Adjusting Flower Nut" to set that back up properly.

    Actually, you could try tightening your flower nut first, That might help, if its just not tight enough to engage fully that would glaze the pads and cause screeching.

    Basically, you pull the clutch cover, remove the little lock screw on the 'flower nut'(you'll see why its called that when you see it). Now, with your clutch locked off(handle pulled it), Tighten the flower 3-4 notches and put the lock screw back in and the cover back on. Just make sure the bike will still roll freely with the clutch handle locked on before you put the cover back on.

    I should've said that first, but it's always good to know how things work first, eh?

    gl.
     
  6. motivation

    motivation New Member

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    my engine also starts squeaking upon starting then dissapears after 30-60 seconds, it is hard to start and runs weak on starting..have to pedal hard when starts to keep going, once going, often speeds up, slows down frequently w/o change in throttle, power is not as strong as it should, can't get full throttle stength anymore....got harder and harder to start...squeaked more often...not just on starting but at higher speeds as well....now, won't start anymore.....just squeaks a lot when try to start....just got new stock nt carb......help please!
     
  7. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    You just need to readjust your clutch.

    4 step clutch adjustment

    1. By adjusting the cable, position the clutch's camshaft to be perfectly flat against the bucking bar.

    2. Lock the clutch!!!

    3. Take of the right cover and you'll see two gears. At the center of the larger one on the left is a flower nut with a locking screw between two "petals". Remove the locking screw turn the flower nut. CW will bring the plate in (if it's slipping on acceleration and hills), CCW will bring the plate out (if it isn't fully disengaging when locked).

    4. Fire up the bike (don't forget to put the locking screw back in when you're testing), lock the clutch and lift the back tire off the ground. If it moves at all, you need to readjust it. Take it for a ride and see if it's slipping on hills or when you accelerate. Lather, rinse and repeat until it's PERFECT. It's worth the wait.
     
  8. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Sounds like the clutch pucks are glazed just like has already been said.....I 've had mine do that before in the past, wont hurt anything really just need to replace the pucks is my advice.

    If decide to replace them you need to pull the side cover and check to see if your engine has the round pucks or the Square-ish type. they will not interchange so you need to know for sure which you need before ordering new ones.
     
  9. MadC

    MadC New Member

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    this thread is old, but it helped, sorry I didn't get back to you guys..

    It actually wasn't a clutch problem, it's weird... I changed a broken metal seal between the head and engine. and the noise stopped.

    But now the problem I have is new. I can't get the bike to go, the bicycle tries to start, sounds like it is trying to give it gas when throttle is turned, but it just won't start...

    peddling my ass off with it running, having the gas go into it but not starting...

    could that be a spark plug or CDI plug problem?
     
  10. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Yep could be either, but most likely the CDI or Mag coil if the plug looks pretty clean and your not getting any spark or just very weak orange spark.

    Check to make sure you're actually getting fuel to the engine also.



     
  11. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

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    I was actually posting for this guy who revived the dead thread.

    You actually can file down the squarish ones to fit the circles, though I don't know if the count of them is the same.


    Though, back to the OP.

    It could be sparkplug, but I doubt it.

    How are you wired? Optimally you want it like this.

    Black CDI to Black Motor to Green Killswitch.
    Blue CDI to Blue Motor to Red/Yellow Killswitch.
    White Motor to WIRE CAP.

    As well, take some dikes to your sparkplug wire - trim off half an inch off each end and screw them back in.
     
  12. motivation

    motivation New Member

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    I have the same problem, the only way the bike would start is peddling like crazy down a steep hill, engine would start for a second, then turn off...would do this a few times while holding the throttle wide open...eventually would stay on.....now won't start at all...just makes squeaking sound while trying to start....did you find out if CDI problem or magneto?

     

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