engine angle help
- Thread starter evl as
- Start date
The_Aleman
Active Member
I've run many miles with more tilt than that on a bike because of the MM shorty intake I used.
My engine ran fine, especially up hills lol. Had black cat pipe and 44T.
Level at rest is definitely best!
OP's looks fine IMO.
My engine ran fine, especially up hills lol. Had black cat pipe and 44T.
Level at rest is definitely best!
OP's looks fine IMO.
Al.Fisherman
New Member
Here are some tips about mounting the engine. You may get buy with the angle, but as said "Level at rest is definitely best".
Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
Venice Motor Bikes
Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
I think once you have the wheels on the bike, it will be more level than you think. 
My thought too. The frame isn't setting as level as it will be with wheels mounted.I think once you have the wheels on the bike, it will be more level than you think.
Tom
rustycase
Gutter Rider
Yah, doesn't seem to me to be a natural stance for a bike unless OP is gonna run a tall rear and a small front...
Rear mount is most important... Application of power is trying to pull that engine through the seat post to get at the back wheel.
or, trying to pull the back wheel up to the engine!
Front mount is to stabilize, and, to hold the front of the motor down against the torque of the fire-breathing hp created in side the bowels of china girl...
You could take a half-round file to the mounts... Top of the rear, and bottom of the front, and change the angle of intersection with the frame tubes.
(I did so on my front, as many others do. I do NOT feel rubber mounting with an inner tube shim is a wise choice.)
...See how it looks with your selected front forks and wheels mounted up temporarily. You are pretty close and could most likely compensate for a little bit of angle by tweaking the float level.
Another option might be a short section of some sort of rubber tube in the intake tract. Some folks do it just to lessen vibration at the carb...
Good luck
rc
OR, the dreaded single bolt T mount on the front...
Rear mount is most important... Application of power is trying to pull that engine through the seat post to get at the back wheel.
or, trying to pull the back wheel up to the engine!
Front mount is to stabilize, and, to hold the front of the motor down against the torque of the fire-breathing hp created in side the bowels of china girl...
You could take a half-round file to the mounts... Top of the rear, and bottom of the front, and change the angle of intersection with the frame tubes.
(I did so on my front, as many others do. I do NOT feel rubber mounting with an inner tube shim is a wise choice.)
...See how it looks with your selected front forks and wheels mounted up temporarily. You are pretty close and could most likely compensate for a little bit of angle by tweaking the float level.
Another option might be a short section of some sort of rubber tube in the intake tract. Some folks do it just to lessen vibration at the carb...
Good luck
rc
OR,
the dreaded single bolt T mount on the front...
decoherence
New Member
i'm like aleman. my carb is more tilted than that.
no problems here.
i did have problems by listening to everyone & trying to put the engine @ a different angle.
mount it the way it was designed. just the way you have it.
then go from there.
no problems here.
i did have problems by listening to everyone & trying to put the engine @ a different angle.
mount it the way it was designed. just the way you have it.
then go from there.
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
I made an adapter but I would still see if it can work like it is.
Also shimming the mounts could be done. I'm not sure where someone said it was too small a frame. I did not get that. Maybe something I don't see.
Just the engine I am doing 3 hp Briggs 4 stroke barely fits in the frame I'm using, you have way more ample space to use.
The way my adapter worked, and I have pictures, but simply since I had to use a right angle elbow on the intake manifold anyway, so then my 20 degree tilt forward of the engine had me make an adapter plate. Without the combined right angle adapter, then my second adapter cannot be used. Please note this!
I made countersunk flat head screw on the adapter plate and additional holes that accounted to make up the 20 degrees in the opposite direction when I fitted the adapter in place.
The oil in the crankcase I have heard others (for four strokes) have concern, but small angles I have heard had no problem.
Two jpegs of the adapters shown. The adapter not yet in place is not the 20 degree tilt correction for the carb bowl; it is for the 90 elbow that would not connect my engine without it having offset on another axis 90 degrees. The 20 degree adapter has the screws very close together that it almost was not going to work, but it did.
Note I did not make the 90 degree elbow part. It was from a Toro lawn mower, I just made two adapters to get 1(the elbow to fit on the engine), 2(the 20 degree convert back to level carb bowl), and 3(one more to allow an air pump primer bulb to prime the carb from the air intake side of the carb).
Maybe some of you have seen the integral primer bulbs built into the air filters. My air filter was not for this carb so therefore a third adapter which has a hose that gets pressure from another defunct carb, except that the primer works and I adapted it to have a remote located prime button up by my gravity feed gas tank.
Measure Twice
Also shimming the mounts could be done. I'm not sure where someone said it was too small a frame. I did not get that. Maybe something I don't see.
Just the engine I am doing 3 hp Briggs 4 stroke barely fits in the frame I'm using, you have way more ample space to use.
The way my adapter worked, and I have pictures, but simply since I had to use a right angle elbow on the intake manifold anyway, so then my 20 degree tilt forward of the engine had me make an adapter plate. Without the combined right angle adapter, then my second adapter cannot be used. Please note this!
I made countersunk flat head screw on the adapter plate and additional holes that accounted to make up the 20 degrees in the opposite direction when I fitted the adapter in place.
The oil in the crankcase I have heard others (for four strokes) have concern, but small angles I have heard had no problem.
Two jpegs of the adapters shown. The adapter not yet in place is not the 20 degree tilt correction for the carb bowl; it is for the 90 elbow that would not connect my engine without it having offset on another axis 90 degrees. The 20 degree adapter has the screws very close together that it almost was not going to work, but it did.
Note I did not make the 90 degree elbow part. It was from a Toro lawn mower, I just made two adapters to get 1(the elbow to fit on the engine), 2(the 20 degree convert back to level carb bowl), and 3(one more to allow an air pump primer bulb to prime the carb from the air intake side of the carb).
Maybe some of you have seen the integral primer bulbs built into the air filters. My air filter was not for this carb so therefore a third adapter which has a hose that gets pressure from another defunct carb, except that the primer works and I adapted it to have a remote located prime button up by my gravity feed gas tank.
Measure Twice
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