Drum Brake Opinion

P

PoorBoy

New Member
Hi, guys

Just picked this up off of CL for $150.00 hoping it is a good deal. I do like the style and the bike is fairly clean. While my Dyno/HF79 is in a holding pattern for a couple of weeks, I felt this would be another project to immerse myself in.

This Newsboy has the alloy rims and I wish to fit a drum brake on the front. Should I chose a Strumey Archer the 90mm size is best? This has the 3speed rear setup and so I am asking if the drum in front and coaster in the rear will be sufficient. At 61, I am not a racer anymore. This will be getting a 2 stroke kit I recently picked up (thanks Neil).

I will be spending some more time in the archives checking to see if there are any weird things with this bike I need to be aware of during the build. Suggestions are always welcome.

As always, Thanks for all the input.

Tom



 
Modern drum brakes like the Sturmey Archer and Nexus have plenty of stopping power. Drum brakes cost less than disc unless your fork already has the mount for a caliper on it.
 
Last edited:
If you're not a racer, you can get away with using the 70MM Sturmey, as long as you and your bike aren't too heavily loaded. On hot days with 300lbs of bike and rider, speeds over 25MPH can be tough to bring down, especially downhill. For that kind of duty, the 90MM or a Worksman C6 is the way to go.

I ran my bike with a 70MM Sturmey front and rear for over a year. My setup is 300lbs total, and I had some uncomfortably long stopping distances. Had to add another brake on each wheel. I wish I had gone with the 90MM.
 
Thanks guys for the replies. Right now I am trying to find anyone local in Orange County who can cut, properly thread the existing spokes down to mate a drum hub to the rim. I may in fact have to go the disc route and then decide on what type of suspension fork to use. Springer or other. I do like the look of the Monarch but am wondering for the price if there is really that much suspension to it. A mountain bike style fork seems to give more travel but perhaps not fit in with the lines of the frame as nicely.

I will just need to slow down and decide what the final look of the bike will be and plan accordingly. Just hoping I can get the drum laced in the end.
 
Last edited:
I am not really a wheel building expert, but I have built/rebuilt my worksman rims 5 times now. I have laced 3 different drum hubs into the front rim and I have used the original spokes without modification every time.

I have done 2 different tandem bike front drums (similar to worksman C6), and I currently have a drum from a honda cb110 small motorcycle. All these drums have different circumferences, but there is something about the geometry where the distance from the rim to the spoke hole in the hub remains the same.

I have also laced in a morrow back hub to replace a shimano cb110, and it was the same deal. Different hub circumference, same original spokes.

I have not used a sturmey archer hub, but I think that mathematically, it should work.

Gilbert
 
Last edited:
Drum brakes off the table as of now. Kinda want to use the stock fork on the Worksman INB if possible. Do the Busettii Brackets offer any option that should be considered? A search in the archives revealed very little and nothing for a front fork application. Let me know if it is not good for this application and I shall seek out a fork that will hopefully accept a caliper only and not V brake posts.

Again thank you for your input and time reading all this.

Tom
 
If the stock fork on the worksman does not have a stud for a brake arm, you can make a bracket to hold the brake arm in place. I have done this more than once. I currently run a worksman wheel with a drum, but I'm prepping to lace up a yamaha dirtbike drum to a 24" rim. Take a piece of flat steel or aluminum, about 1" wide, something that's not too hard to bend, form it around the fork to clamp the brake arm to, then drill a hole in each end for a bolt to go through and bolt the brake arm to it. You can also simply hose clamp the brake arm to the fork, but this looks tacky in my opinion, though it will get the job done.
 
Sorry for the confusion and not making myself clear. That does happen at my age. Drum brakes are a no go as I am unable to find anyone to cut, thread and lace the stock Worksman wheel. A hub for a disc is not a problem. Mounting the caliper either calls for the possibility of this Busettii Bracket or change to a disc ready fork, rigid, springer or shock style.

Hoping to get feedback from anyone who has actually used the Busettii Bracket with success or has found it to be lacking. I do appreciate your time responding.

Thanks, Tom
 
I don't know about cutting the spokes, but you can order the length you need from Holmes hobbies (google them) and there are online tutorials for wheel lacing. It's how I learned. Nothing like knowing you built your own wheels.
 
Holmes Hobbies was my first go to but found out 11 ga spokes are no longer supported by them. Probably too small a market to continue with that size which is understandable from a business perspective.
 
Gbrebes said:
I am not really a wheel building expert, but I have built/rebuilt my worksman rims 5 times now. I have laced 3 different drum hubs into the front rim and I have used the original spokes without modification every time.

I have done 2 different tandem bike front drums (similar to worksman C6), and I currently have a drum from a honda cb110 small motorcycle. All these drums have different circumferences, but there is something about the geometry where the distance from the rim to the spoke hole in the hub remains the same.

I have also laced in a morrow back hub to replace a shimano cb110, and it was the same deal. Different hub circumference, same original spokes.

I have not used a sturmey archer hub, but I think that mathematically, it should work.

Gilbert
Click to expand...



Right on Gilbert. Lightweight motorcycle drums are a little larger and have excellent stopping power. The spokes just swing out from center and don't need to be cut. Great choice on the Morrow also.
 
PoorBoy said:
Sorry for the confusion and not making myself clear. That does happen at my age. Drum brakes are a no go as I am unable to find anyone to cut, thread and lace the stock Worksman wheel. A hub for a disc is not a problem. Mounting the caliper either calls for the possibility of this Busettii Bracket or change to a disc ready fork, rigid, springer or shock style.

Hoping to get feedback from anyone who has actually used the Busettii Bracket with success or has found it to be lacking. I do appreciate your time responding.

Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, when you decide which disc setup to use, can you post photos? Thanks.
 
msrfan,

Yes, I will post what my decision will be. And I do thank you for your comments as I appreciate all input.
 
A fellow handy with the likes of a mig welder can handle this in about five minutes. Mock the brake up. This means assemble the whole thing. Now simply take the likes of a cable zip ty. Go to the handle bar lever. Set the brake where it truly belongs.

Lock the handle bar lever with the cable ty. This will hold the brake at the rotor perfectly where it truly belongs. Here is the easy part weld in your mount tabs to the fork.

Done!
 
Goat Herder, I don't know why I did not consider that. I will search today for a weld on tab for the caliper and also see what repowdercoating the fork would cost to retain the stock/factory look.

I will plan to weigh all these great options for a bit before making a decision. But I think a disc over a drum set up will likely be the winner. So now, rigid or not.

Tom
 
This is one of my favorit tools.
image_17220.jpg
I call it my Redneck Lath. LOL. I could not began to mention how many uses for this tool I have had.

I wanted to pipe in and say that cheap type flate stock steel from the likes of Lowes will not do IMHO, it is not my prefered strength alloy of steel. There is tons of sources for what you might want?


Some reading.
http://www-materials.eng.cam.ac.uk/mpsite/materialsdb/#Alloy_steels

It is funny? I went to look for a good link for you and it looks like it would take me a Half Hour to find it??
 
Thanks to all for the input. After a lot of soul searching, I felt I was forcing the issue with this bike. Ultimately the frame just felt too small for my 6'3" height. I contemplated ordering the 20" fram and transfer over most parts but costs are too great. Best option, sell the bike and start off with a proper size frame with decent goodies.

The Worksman bikes sure are heavy duty and for many will make a great platform for a build. If I ever come across a 20" frame in the future, it will be hard to turn down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top