Are you saying 2 1/2"x 1 1/2" 16/14ga steel tubing is a snug fit over the Schwinn factory oval bottom tube?
Crazyhorse's How to stretch a StingRay Chopper conversion into a XXL Chopper!
- Thread starter Crazy Horse
- Start date
If my measurements are correct, though it may require crushing/cutting/forming the Factory oval to fit inside the Rectangle tube, as the Oval is JUST under 2.5"x1.5" by like .240" or so, so the 16/14ga should work, maybe even 11ga or .120 should do, but won't know until I can try to source the rectangular tube locally (Not fond of spending almost $30 for steel just to take an irreversible chance). Far as the down tube and top tube are concerned, was thinking of getting the 1.75+ tube, find a size that fits snug into that, cut the 1.75 to length, drill about 4-6 holes into each end in an X pattern around the ends,cut off about 4-6 inches of the smaller tube, slot it halfway into both ends of the 1.75 tube, weld them together at the holes. That way the fill-in tube has extra support at the joints, then finish welding together. Kinda hard to explain (never was good with explanations, was always the hands on type), so once I( get my project underway, I'll upload pictures on ym progress as well as any road bumps I might run into.
For what you're doing, this will get you most of the way there....at least for the bottom tube.
1-1/2in x 2-1/2in x 3/16in Wall Steel Rectangle Tube 36in Piece | eBay
Due to the cutting process, length many vary +/- 1/16in and sharp edges may be present. Exercise caution when handling.
www.ebay.com
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MetalsDepot.com is a great source for lengths cut to order, at least here in the United States.
Just enter the dimensions needed
https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/steel-rectangle-tube
Just enter the dimensions needed
https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/steel-rectangle-tube
Looked at them, seen for 2' is about $24 shipped and round tube 2' for $about $35 shipped, but if I can get a hold of a place near me for cheaper, rather go that route. I have people to do the cutting/welding for free, just need the materials.
Oh absolutely, if you can get it local, go for it by all means. I'm without the capability to drive and live about 45 minutes from the nearest place to get metal.
New here , but I have started the same idea and I found that a donor bike is cheapest for the metal. But if your looking to keep that same oval shape a vise worked for me. Just stand the tube up and slowly sqweeeze the tube and letting off a bit then back some more until you get the same shape. It took a few texts to get the correct shape but I did get it right. You should however take a marker or prick your finger and use your blood. ( Not recommended) and draw a line the length of the tube as so to get the ovals place in the same position.
I do however think you guys do rock at this . I wish I knew then what I have read now. The rig and rotisserie would have saved me countless hours of frustrations and cus words. I really how that this post gos on and more picks. I know it's not the first but I did however after all said and done did make mine in to a trike with a donor OCC bike a friend for lack of better words BUTCHERED . But the parts I did save he did not. I'll post pics once I figure out how to do such. The trike axel did make it so much easier to mount a 212 cc predictor on it.
Again you guys please keep up your work and hope to continue see more posts here. Thank you for reading along with my ramblings. Best of luck.
I do however think you guys do rock at this . I wish I knew then what I have read now. The rig and rotisserie would have saved me countless hours of frustrations and cus words. I really how that this post gos on and more picks. I know it's not the first but I did however after all said and done did make mine in to a trike with a donor OCC bike a friend for lack of better words BUTCHERED . But the parts I did save he did not. I'll post pics once I figure out how to do such. The trike axel did make it so much easier to mount a 212 cc predictor on it.
Again you guys please keep up your work and hope to continue see more posts here. Thank you for reading along with my ramblings. Best of luck.
If anyone's still interested, I found sources for the bottom tube. The first one is the same outside dimensions but has much more wall thickness. The second is 4 X 2 but thinner wall and slightly cheaper.
I'm getting ready to cut up and stretch one of my OCC Stingrays. Since I'm borrowing a welder, I want to have everything I'll need at hand. I'm using 1.75" OD .120 wall mild steel to lengthen the top tube so a 1.625 OD slug will be a good snug fit with a little heat and persuasion.
The only question is the inside diameter of the factory top tube. I can't measure it without cutting it first. Does anyone know the ID or wall thickness of the factory Schwinn top tube?
The only question is the inside diameter of the factory top tube. I can't measure it without cutting it first. Does anyone know the ID or wall thickness of the factory Schwinn top tube?
I'm gonna do this to my OCC Schwinn.
Great idea.
Where's the pics for the frame building jig?
The link goes nowhere.
Maybe needs fixed
Great idea.
Where's the pics for the frame building jig?
The link goes nowhere.
Maybe needs fixed
That was written on Feb. 5 2013 and Crazy Horse was last on the forum on Jan. 23 2018. Look at the date on top of the post to see the date it was written and put your cursor on the persons name and click to see when they were last on the forum.
Steve.
Steve.
Nice, thank you brother!This is how I Stretch / Convert most styles of StingRay Choppers or Clone OCC Chopper into a Schwinn XL Chopper or the Schwinn XXL Chopper style build.
Here's a Parts & Tools list that you'll need to get started:
Tools and Equipment:
For cutting the frame up use a hack saw, reciprocating saw ( Sawzall ), angle grinder, or steel chopsaw for the straightest cut.
For welding the frame back together, a welding shop or your own personal welder.
I use 1-3/4" round steel tubing for the top tube, and downtube from headtube.
I'd suggest sleeving slightly smaller steel tubing inside the 1-3/4" steel tubing for extra strength for the new extended steel tubing that you'll be using on the top tube which runs from the headtube to the rear triangle and the for the new extended tubing which you'll be using on the steel tube which runs from the headtube to the bottom bracket also known to some builders as the pedalcrank.
I use 1-1/2" X 4" X 16-gauge rectangular steel tubing for the bottom tube.
You can build this Stretched Chopper as an XL Chopper with a 22" bottom tube, or you can build this Stretched Chopper as an XXL Chopper with a 30" bottom tube.
Notice: Remember your leg length should determine the amount of Stretch you decide on, 5-7-inches to 6-feet tall you'd want to only add a 22-inch bottom tube. 6-feet or taller go for the XXL Stretch Chopper with bottom tube measurement of 30-inches.
You also need 2 stock 20-inch StingRay or OCC Style Chopper Bicycles to chop for your build. Or just one if you can source the 1-3/4" round steel tubing.
I prefer using the 1-1/2" X 4" X 16-Gauge Rectangular Steel Tubing for the bottom tube so that I can easily add a Honda crf50 or Pitbike, and or kids ATV ( 49cc - 125cc ), engine's to the square / Rectangular bottom tube.
I'll be posting a few how to pictures showing you where I cut my frames, and other pictures as I go through the build.
Here's what a stock / regular sized 20-inch StingRay Chopper frame with a 14.50-inch bottom tube looks like next to a XXL Chopper with bottom tube measurement of 30-inches . Notice the Xl Chopper Bicycles have a bottom tube measurement of 22.50-inches.
Here's what the Round Steel Tubing and Rectangular Steel Tubing I use looks like.
This what you'll be aiming for if you go for the 30-inch stretch for a XXL Chopper.
To be continued soon....I have to upload pictures of where I cut the frame, then I can post them.
That's my current obsession.
