Oh OK, then I think I made the right choice. Everything is aligned with nothing rubbing which is awesome
Cranbrook Springer Forked BTR YD100 Replica Build (without fabrication)
- Thread starter Nightster
- Start date
How I do chain line verification.
Same goes for rear sprocket to reduction drive out put sprocket. Which is when I started buying and adapting Marten steel sprockets for the reduction drive. Overkill? Yup! I like it.
Tom
Same goes for rear sprocket to reduction drive out put sprocket. Which is when I started buying and adapting Marten steel sprockets for the reduction drive. Overkill? Yup! I like it.
Tom
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Cool, I will try that next time I’ll take the wheel and chain off. The motor is pretty solid and there’s not much adjustment room there. I did use the hub adapter to push the sprocket out where I needed it. Looks pretty damn straight to me.
Ok so a little more fabrication and we’ll have this.
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Adjustability or you will be talking to yourself in a padded room, going Postal. That is why I have to create a replacement engine mount for my Huffy.
Indian leaf spring, will get em looking.
Tom
Lol, I hear you Tom. I’ve already experienced some frustrating events in this new hobby of mine. Sometimes, it’s best to walk away for a little bit. Think more and free yourself from frustration lol. Beers helps too
and yea the Indian leaf spring is turning out nice so far, I’m really pleased. It’s completely mounted, now I have to bend the supports and weld on the second mounting mount.
pay no attention to the cheap hardware I’ve mounted the spring with. Quality hardware will be used. The bends are not perfectly symmetrical unfortunately but close. Mounting it this way I had to make the second bend with the leafspring already attached. In fact, I heated the first bend (Pipe full of sand) and ended up having the been the second one by hand with a cheater bar.
Just have the tank to finish, weld the seat struts and get it started before heading to sanding and paint.
it’s fake, but it looks good lol
Just have the tank to finish, weld the seat struts and get it started before heading to sanding and paint.
it’s fake, but it looks good lol
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Passes my close scrutification. Beers may dull disappointment but often liberally applied lead to obfuscation.
I once disassembled a Servicar doing acid, it was a trip. Pulling the back jug to find a hole in the piston top you could drop a fifty cent piece through, made it clear why the engine had now power and smoked allot.
Summer of 1972, motorcycles and bicycles, cut severely into my beer budget. What the hey, I was only 21.
Tom
I once disassembled a Servicar doing acid, it was a trip. Pulling the back jug to find a hole in the piston top you could drop a fifty cent piece through, made it clear why the engine had now power and smoked allot.
Summer of 1972, motorcycles and bicycles, cut severely into my beer budget. What the hey, I was only 21.
Tom
Lol thanks Tom
I’ve also done a little acid back in the day, however I can’t say I ever disassembled a servi-car while Trippin lol
with that I’m going to have a victory beer. Nothing fancy, just a Miller lite this time
I once did a dis-servi to a Briggs 2hp aluminum cylinder with no impairment other than not taking my dads advise. You know I grabbed the thing from someones trash and loosened a rusted valve. Rode the motor bike for a while and worked great. Some reason, not remembering why ran it without air filter to the dismay of the elder. It was not too long after loss of power, but easy starting with less compression. With head off I saw the score mark left on the cylinder wall. Then if I had known what Click an Clack knew about the pellets that work magic miracle by plating the cylinder wall with these strange things, could it make up the difference?
Dan, as far as feux springer forks are concerned I think your fork is pleasing to the eye. I have seen some that aren't very nice looking. Currently I'm working on a leaf spring fork using a vintage fork and I have decided on a head tube rake at about 55 degrees where most modern bikes just to my eye are closer to seventy. There is lots of different theory on designs with leading link and trailing length but to me the safest bet is putting the axle right in the center of the trail angle on the head tube. Speedway bikes have far more lead but aren't really meant for the road. This fork I'm building I've factored the rake of the head tube and the design actually pulls down on the spring but a leading link would push up or pull down depending on the way it's built. I've probably put 30 hours into just measuring and finding the right pieces.
Please excuse double post. If you look up a diagram for rake and trail it will help later on. This is most likely somthing you will want to persue later on in the near future.
Thanks and Wow, that sounds interesting. Do you have a build thread? would love
To follow
Thank you Ralph, will do some research
Tom, are these chain stays made out of stainless? And would it be too much for you to share your manufacturing trade secrets? I would like to do something similar on my future builds.
thanks
thanks
Currently there's no build thread for the fork build. It's a separate project which isn't much to see at the moment. Just a pile of parts.
Got some paint on the jug today. Crankcase needs it too now that I see how good it looks
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The brake arm straps are 304 SS.
Tom
Tom
