Could someone Please help me with my screws?

[Chaz]

Still no pictures, El Bandito, so maybe try to repost them. One other way to get a stubborn screw to move is to use a socket wrench with a small socket to fit a stubby driver bit in it and, if by chance you have the right size and shape of c-clamp, you can tighten up the clamp to hold the bit in the screw firmly while you back out the screw with the socket wrench.

You can try this and the other suggestions after your engine is warmed up. I like the heat.

hope you can get those screws out, good luck

 

[Slogger]

If they're giving you this much grief, just drill the heads off.
The cover will come off and the now un-stressed screws can be turned out with vise grips.
Use a drill a shade bigger than the shank under the heads, lightly centerpunch them if you want to be careful.
(They'll need replaced but they're all chewed anyway, right?)

 

[Chaz]

Yeah, I agree with Slogger... off with their heads!

 

[dmb]

a left turning drill bit will work, also the sears easy out drills. harbor freight has some too. if your hard up for cash pm me your address and i'll send you one

 

[El Bandito]

Well I been trying to post the pictures online and I think I got it. Here we go:







what makes it frustrating is that these are the only screws on my motor that are stubborn and stripped, the rest of the screws work a ok.

 

[El Bandito]

as I said earlier, sorry for the low quality of the pics

 

[Riverdales27]

Where did you buy your engine from? The other covers were easy to take off for me too, the clutch cover can't even open it.

 

[El Bandito]

Bikeberry through amazon

 

[2door]

Unless you've already bought an impact driver, you might try this old trick. Use a stubby common blade type screwdriver, one that fits the slots in ths screws well. While gripping it and holding it firmly in the slot, tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer while twisting couter clockwise. You don't need to beat it to death, just good solid raps with the hammer while twisting.

One other old method is using a good, sharp center punch on the outer circumference of the screw head, hammering it carefully in a counter clockwise direction. This method will mess up the screw head but you need to replace those with Allen head capscrews anyway.

Good luck and let us know if any of our suggestions work for you.

Tom

 

[Tony01]

I suggest drilling it out and replacing with allen head screws. I think both suggestions have been mentioned. For me this is the simplest way.

Thanks Davezilla for the valve lapping compound trick. Will try it next time.

 

[El Bandito]

Thank you everyone for the tips and tricks I am going to try to drill out the screws tomorrow and get these cap screws. Does anyone happen to know where I can get them? Would Ace Hardware be ok? Where could I find valve lapping?

 

[Tony01]

Ace Hardware is probably the best as most stores are family owned and have a great selection.

Valve lapping compound/metal grinding compound can be found in an auto parts store.

 

[2door]

Ace Hardware has never let me down when it comes to metric fasteners. My local stores have a good selection.

Tom

 

[El Bandito]

I have some great news! I drilled through the screws today! problem: i have no idea where to find those same screws but higher quality. As of right now, I only have duct tape to hold the cover on.

 

[Slogger]

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=43

SBP sells sets, 10 bucks. The shipping will make it higher.

 

[Tony01]

If you're not willing to wait for shipped parts, Ace hardware can help you. Take your drilled out screws ( or a good one) and ask for the dollar-a-piece Allen head bolts. Use their nut plate to find what diameter it is. I don't have a china kit but I'm guessing its metric, so match up the diameter to either an M5x0.8 or M6x1.0. Then check the thread pitch, do this by meshing the threads of the old and new screw together to see if they are the same - hold them up to the light and see if the threads mesh. Also, make sure the new bolt head is no bigger than the old one, so it fits inside the counterbore on the plate.

 

[El Bandito]

Hello everybody, El Bandito here and I have another question for you all. How does one move or bend a muffler so that it won't get hit or cuahgt by my pedal? if Pics are needed I will supply

 

[2door]

Clamp the flange in a bench vice and cold bend the pipe just enough to get pedal clearance. There is no need to heat the pipe. It will bend cold. Just go slow and bend only a little then test the fit. Keep bending until the pedals clear.

You might also get away with enlarging the bolt holes in the flange just a little. Sometimes that will give you enough rotation to clear the pedal/crank.

Tom

 

[El Bandito]

Sweet! Thank you a ton!

 

[El Bandito]

Hey everybody, El Bandito here. Turns out when I drilled out the heads of the screws, one of the holes holding the screws got drilled at an angle and is slightly messed up. It is still usable I think though I was wondering if anyone knows where to buy a replacement cover just in case. By the way I have no idea what the cover is called. Is it called the gear cover or is it called something else?