Could someone Please help me with my screws?

[2door]

Get rid of the chain tensioner and shorten the chain. I can see from your photo why you're having chain problems. Sprocket alignment is critical. Chain tension is too. You want 1/2" to 3/4" of slack. Any more or less can cause you trouble.

As for stopping with the engine running, you have to pull (squeez) the clutch lever in when your speed drops to below about 10mph. That is the 'disengaged' position for the clutch. When you take off from a dead stop you'll need to pedal assist up to about 10mph before releaseing (engaging) the clutch.

Safety warning: Don't rely on the clutch locking button on the handlebar lever and leave the bike running unattended. Those lock buttons aren't always reliable and can release allowing the bike to move.

A slow idle speed can be adjusted by screwing in the idle speed screw. In is for a faster idle, out is to slow the idle speed. It is not a mixture screw simply a mechanical way to block the throttle from closing completely.

Tom

 

[captain zeldacoon]

hey everyone this is captain z im a good friend of el bandito. we were out riding today and his carb is leaking bad. i know new bikes tend to leak but its not oil its mostly straight up gas. as soon as the fuel valve is opened it just start gushing. this doesnt seem right to me.

 

[Chaz]

Hey Capn, sounds like carb float level needs adjustment. Or could be a piece of something keeping the float needle from closing. Open the carb, drain it first, and see what's up. I'm assuming you've checked the gasket on the carb body and made sure the little drain screw at the bottom is tight.

 

[captain zeldacoon]

will do
and yes we did check to see if everything was tight

 

[2door]

Trash in the float valve (needle & seat) is the most common culprit when a carburetor leaks as you describe. This is one reason we stress the use of a good in-line fuel filter.

Unless it was messed with and bent, the float level is usually set correctly from the factory. If the carb is not level or close to it that too can throw off the float level. You can get away with some tilt but if it is excessive the float might need to be adjusted to compensate.

You'll also want to make sure the float, floats. If it has a crack it will fill up with fuel and sink thereby opening the float valve. Inspect the float, make sure there's no fuel in it and it floats in gasoline.

Another cause of a carb leak is installing the float bowl on top of the float hinge pin. That pin can slide out and will rest in the gasket sealing area. You can tighten all you want but there will still be a gap that will allow fuel to leak out.

Let us know what you find.

Tom

 

[El Bandito]

Hey everyone, El Bandito here, turns out I didn't need to remove the float needle at all. So yesterday I went to test out the motor to see if it will work and I noticed two things right away: 1. The clutch is easier to pull down 2. There was no leaking at all(after I opened the valves). So I proceeded to start up the motor and everything worked. Strange huh? Anyway, everything seems to work just fine now and the high pitch screeching sound seems to have almost gone away, it has been determined to be the piston and the clutch partially.

 

[captain zeldacoon]

we never determined what it was. i said it might be the clutch and you said you thought it was thr piston but you had no evidence. bro.

 

[2door]

we never determined what it was. i said it might be the clutch and you said you thought it was thr piston but you had no evidence. bro.

Unless you're trying to run with no oil in the fuel mix, or too little oil, the piston isn't going to make any noise. Whatever "screeching" sound you heard was either from lack of lubrication in the clutch actuating parts or the gears.

Did you grease the cam, bucking bar and ball bearing on the left side or the gears on the right side?

Tom