My engine arrived a few days ago, i have everything assembled and am still working on the brakes and handlebars, but the clutch when disengaged had alot of resistance and felt like it was still engaged. I opened the clutch assembly, and all i did was remove the lock screw and flower gear, then the floating plate, and the clutch lever suddenly increased its movment resistance. I but everything back where it was and now, when i push the lever all the way out, i can rotate the clutch wheels without rotating the engine, but if i puch it in, it engaged the engine, i am not sure if it will roll right not, but i dont think the clutch lever on my handlebars will work right now, and i dont know what to do now.
Clutch problems/ high resistance and reversed lever
- Thread starter Crysisfreak7
- Start date
-
- Tags
- clutch gear gears lever resistance
Here is a tutorial that might help you. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22726
It's never recommended to start by taking the clutch apart until you fully understand how it works. My feeling is that your problem was an improperly adjusted cable. Now you'll have to start from scratch to get the clutch adjusted again. Good luck.
Tom
It's never recommended to start by taking the clutch apart until you fully understand how it works. My feeling is that your problem was an improperly adjusted cable. Now you'll have to start from scratch to get the clutch adjusted again. Good luck.
Tom
just to reword my problem and add info. The clutch lever that is attached to the engine is now pulling itself towards the engine, it started this when i removed the floating plate, flower nut, screw and spring, nothing else. in the link provided by 2door, the 4th comment (the one by kcvale) the wheel he says to turn using a screwdriver wont move at all on my engine, it is completely jammed, what should i do?
i think i figured it out, the clutch lever is properly oriented, i just want to lower the force required to pull the clutch handle, the problem now is that i still cant move the wheel refered to by kcvale that i was talking about still is jammed, the gear that the chain is attached to is no moving, and the wheel that turns the float plate is still not moving either.
yes, the drive chain and back wheel are completely stuck. i will let you ask me questions to which i will answer until we come to an understanding about the problem and solution because i am bad at descriptions.
also is there any way to make it so i dont have to use so much force to pull the clutch, if i attach the cable as it is, i will have to use all my hand strength to pull it.
Pull the clutch lever on the handle bars.
Then lift the back wheel off the ground and rotate the wheel which will break your clutch free.
If possible post a picture of how you have the clutch cable from the handlebars to the engine. Do you have the cable tied down to the frame? Any sharp bends or kinks in the cable?
There are things you can do to decrease the force required to disengage the clutch but we need to see yours first. For one thing if you installed the small spring that comes in the kit between the clutch cable guide on the engine and the clutch actuator arm you need to remove and discard it. It serves no purpose except to make the clutch harder to pull. Also make sure the actuator parts are well lubricated. That includes the cam in the cover, the bucking bar which is the steel pin that protrudes from the drive sprocket and the ball bearing that goes in the same hole as the bucking bar. Use bearing grease, not oil or WD-40, which isn't a lubricant.
The cable itself will also benefit from lubrication. Some use grease, some use oil. But the cable will move more easily if it has some lube.
Show us a picture and we'll be able to offer a little more help.
Tom
Last edited:
take out the spark plug and roll bike in any direction to see if it will move - if it doesn't move, then either the chain is stuck or the rear wheel is stuck
if you can't see where it is stuck, take off the chain and see if the rear wheel will turn then, if it does, then it is probably something wrong with the chain
if you can't see where it is stuck, take off the chain and see if the rear wheel will turn then, if it does, then it is probably something wrong with the chain
Before putting clutch cable on the bike I like to slide the cable completely from the sheath and put a bit of grease on it - basically, get a small blob of grease, pinch it between your fingertips and slide the cable through it 'til it's lightly but evenly coated except for the last few inches, then slide it back into the sheath. I work in a bit more grease where the cable will be entering and exiting the sheath.
A clutch roller will reduce the effort needed to pull the lever. There are a few different takes on that, try a site search. Here's one of mine, based on Al.Fisherman's design.
A clutch roller will reduce the effort needed to pull the lever. There are a few different takes on that, try a site search. Here's one of mine, based on Al.Fisherman's design.
Attachments
I'm using the same type roller on mine and it made a huge difference in how smooth and easy the clutch works...
Another approach that doesn't require rollers or any additional parts is one I covered in a very old thread that I can't find at the moment.
However, in short, what I do is sand and smooth the end of the bucking bar where it contacts the cam in the clutch actuator/sprocket cover. I also do the same to the cam where the bar makes contact.
Use a Dremel with a fine sanding disc and smooth the end of the bar removing all of the rough factory surface. Don't remove enough material that will shorten the bar, just smooth the surface removing any roughness. Do the same to the cam. Take off the sharp edge and smooth the contacting surface, called the cam approach angle, then, if you have the equipment, polish the areas you sanded on a bench buffer until they take on a chrome-like finish.
Lubricate the contacting/moving parts and you'll see a dramatic decrease in clutch pull force. Guaranteed.
Tom
However, in short, what I do is sand and smooth the end of the bucking bar where it contacts the cam in the clutch actuator/sprocket cover. I also do the same to the cam where the bar makes contact.
Use a Dremel with a fine sanding disc and smooth the end of the bar removing all of the rough factory surface. Don't remove enough material that will shorten the bar, just smooth the surface removing any roughness. Do the same to the cam. Take off the sharp edge and smooth the contacting surface, called the cam approach angle, then, if you have the equipment, polish the areas you sanded on a bench buffer until they take on a chrome-like finish.
Lubricate the contacting/moving parts and you'll see a dramatic decrease in clutch pull force. Guaranteed.
Tom
i will definitly look into that, but there is still the jammed flywheel. and it isnt a cable issue making it hard to pull the clutch, the clutch lever (the one attached to the engine) is nearly impossible to push into the disengaged position with my hands(even after that the flywheel is still jammed)
Did ya try this?
I break all my engines free with a flat bladed screw driver that levers the teeth on the 10 tooth drive sprocket using the case as a fulcrum.
Pushing the clutch lever (on the engine) in by hand is extremely difficult. It can be done but most new builders underestimate the amount of spring pressure that is behind that lever. You can wrap a rag around it, that helps, but be prepared for a large effort to move that lever inward enougth to disengage the clutch, especially on a new engine.
Tom
ok so the high resistance is normal, that is good to know, i will try the wheel ideas, but i already tried using a screwdriver as a lever, i noticed that the chain moved,but doesnt move enought to tighted,the flywheel will only move a little then get jammed, and it always stops at the same position.
To move the clutch lever by hand you can use a box-end wrench if the cable's not attached yet. Slide it over the clutch lever and use it as an extension lever. Otherwise I'll sometimes lock a pair of vice grips (or just use pliers/channel locks)on to the clutch arm where it pivots and turn it from there (not the nut on top, it comes undone to change the position of the clutch arm relative to the mechanism).